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White waistcoat with black tie

KalterKrieg72

New in Town
Messages
4
Hello, all. I am a new member here but I have a question that I hope can be answered.
This month I am attending a masquerade ball with an early 1920s theme. I am wearing a modern, wool Brooks Bros single breasted tuxedo with grosgrain lapels. My bow tie will match the lapels.
I’ve done some research on early ‘20s black tie and I like the look of the white waistcoat with the black suit. Looking online I have only come across white Marcella/pique waistcoats.
My question is this- would the pique material clash with the grosgrain lapels/tie? If so, can someone offer a suggestion where to find a proper patterned waistcoat? (Time is getting short).
I do understand that this is just a masquerade ball and no one will be critical of my waistcoat. But I am partial to the look and can see myself wearing the ensemble in the future.
 

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Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,422
Location
South of Nashville
Hello, all. I am a new member here but I have a question that I hope can be answered.
This month I am attending a masquerade ball with an early 1920s theme. I am wearing a modern, wool Brooks Bros single breasted tuxedo with grosgrain lapels. My bow tie will match the lapels.
I’ve done some research on early ‘20s black tie and I like the look of the white waistcoat with the black suit. Looking online I have only come across white Marcella/pique waistcoats.
My question is this- would the pique material clash with the grosgrain lapels/tie? If so, can someone offer a suggestion where to find a proper patterned waistcoat? (Time is getting short).
I do understand that this is just a masquerade ball and no one will be critical of my waistcoat. But I am partial to the look and can see myself wearing the ensemble in the future.
I would never wear a white waistcoat with black tie, whether a masquerade ball or not. Current fashion* dictates that If you want to wear a waistcoat with your dinner jacket, it should match the color and material of your jacket and trousers. Single-breasted and double breasted waistcoat styles can be worn. I am partial to cummerbunds myself.

The reason you are only finding white pique waistcoats is because that is how they are made–to match the white pique tie used for formal events (white tie and tails).

Now, granted I am conservative in dress and come from a conservative society, so others, not so concerned with the propriety of black tie (and white tie), may not feel the same.

Here is a brief guide to the ins and outs of tuxedo wear in today's society: https://theartefact.com/bespoke-tuxedo-for-men-complete-style-guide/#:~:text=Tuxedo%20Waistcoat%20Style%20Guide&text=If%20you're%20going%20to%20a%20black%2Dtie%20event%2C,have%20a%20shoe%20horn%20cut.
––––
*For at least the past fifty years, which is how long I have been wearing black tie on a regular basis.
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,722
Location
New Forest
Hello, all. I am a new member here but I have a question that I hope can be answered.
This month I am attending a masquerade ball with an early 1920s theme. I am wearing a modern, wool Brooks Bros single breasted tuxedo with grosgrain lapels. My bow tie will match the lapels.
I’ve done some research on early ‘20s black tie and I like the look of the white waistcoat with the black suit. Looking online I have only come across white Marcella/pique waistcoats.
My question is this- would the pique material clash with the grosgrain lapels/tie? If so, can someone offer a suggestion where to find a proper patterned waistcoat? (Time is getting short).
I do understand that this is just a masquerade ball and no one will be critical of my waistcoat. But I am partial to the look and can see myself wearing the ensemble in the future.
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/t...ack-tie-tuxedo-history/jazz-age-tuxedo-1920s/
That link will take you to The Gentleman's Gazette, there you will find an extensive account on the protocols of the white waistcoat as worn in the 1920's Jazz Age.

 

KalterKrieg72

New in Town
Messages
4
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/t...ack-tie-tuxedo-history/jazz-age-tuxedo-1920s/
That link will take you to The Gentleman's Gazette, there you will find an extensive account on the protocols of the white waistcoat as worn in the 1920's Jazz Age.

GHT- thank you for your response. I am familiar with the link you shared. In fact, it was the very same article that informed me of the early 1920s popularity of the white waistcoat with the tuxedo- an “attempt to impart the formality of the full-dress outfit onto its replacement.”
 

KalterKrieg72

New in Town
Messages
4
I would never wear a white waistcoat with black tie, whether a masquerade ball or not. Current fashion* dictates that If you want to wear a waistcoat with your dinner jacket, it should match the color and material of your jacket and trousers. Single-breasted and double breasted waistcoat styles can be worn. I am partial to cummerbunds myself.

The reason you are only finding white pique waistcoats is because that is how they are made–to match the white pique tie used for formal events (white tie and tails).

Now, granted I am conservative in dress and come from a conservative society, so others, not so concerned with the propriety of black tie (and white tie), may not feel the same.

Here is a brief guide to the ins and outs of tuxedo wear in today's society: https://theartefact.com/bespoke-tuxedo-for-men-complete-style-guide/#:~:text=Tuxedo%20Waistcoat%20Style%20Guide&text=If%20you're%20going%20to%20a%20black%2Dtie%20event%2C,have%20a%20shoe%20horn%20cut.
––––
*For at least the past fifty years, which is how long I have been wearing black tie on a regular basis.
Peacoat, thank you for your reply. I can and do appreciate your conservative opinion on the white waistcoat with the tux. However, I am attempting to recreate an early 1920s look. I’m sure that the white waistcoat isn’t my only option for the ball, but it is one I am partial to.
I do admit that I may wear the ensemble again under more formal circumstances, as long as discretion allows.
 

KalterKrieg72

New in Town
Messages
4
Since my original posting I have received advice from someone I respect as a well-educated source ( outside of the two responders above).
It seems for a “period correct” look I should wear a marcella shirt to match the marcella waistcoat . Ideally the collar of the shirt should also be marcella, which in that case I assume would be detachable.
At this late hour and to avoid the high expenses of a thoroughly “authentic” outfit, I may just do a waistcoat rental.
I appreciate the responses I’ve received and would still like to hear any further advice, including any sources for waistcoats and shirts.
Thanks again!
 
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