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Which custom hatter?

seed

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
California
Now I know this is a friendly forum and I know that this is my first post here (although I have been reading tons of posts for a while), but I am curious as to some of the differences between the custom hatters. I mean why would someone choose an Optimo versus an Art Fawcett versus Penman versus Adventurebilt or Peter Bros.? I know they are all good and I have in fact just ordered my first Art Fawcett (which I know will be phenomenal), but I can't help but wonder why one would choose one custom maker over another, especially if the prices of one are much higher than the others.

And I've noticed that many, if not most stick to one custom maker once they do business with him. I understand happy return consumerism, but are there people out there who have tried more than one or two custom makers? Did you change loyalties for one reason or another? I, myself see no reason to stray from one with whom you have positive personal experience, however if I were super rich, I would try them all out just for the fun of it.
 

HungaryTom

One Too Many
Messages
1,204
Location
Hungary
Art Fawcett, Art Fawcett, Art Fawcett.

Hat styles where everyone can find his favourites.

Ribbon work which has lately turned into a superlative and totally unique direction (the man is developing constantly and in directions never seen before -literally avantgarde- think of the model pyramid of the moon at the Art Fawcett Hall of fame - it is more than just taking two ribbons and fold-fold-fold them until the desired result is reached) plus his great sense of natural color harmonies.

And yes the customer service.
He is available all the time and is a great communicator with quickest response times.

His hats arrive within the promised lead time all the time let it be strikes with international airports, pre-Christmas chaos at customs etc.

At last but not least to open the hatbox is always a great moment.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Well hatters are different and you can get to know their work sometimes by ... well by their work.

Art has a definite ribbon styling and I seem to be able to tell a hat he has blocked versus other hats. He's good on the details and last I saw has a knack for hand stitching edge trimming. I've seen Art's hats get progressively better as time has gone by, though that comes from working with felt day to day and as with any craft, your eye gets better and better. His color combinations are an art.

Peter's Brothers has changed over the years though is still primarily a cowboy hatter so their felts are pretty stiff and their crowns pretty tall when it comes to fedoras. I have a couple from when Joe Junior was working the shop and he did an amazing job as shaping, though I'm more for a softer felt when it comes to hats.

I'm keen on Optimo myself because Graham's really the first person I talked to that knew a hell of a lot about hats vintage and old. He knew stuff I knew and other's didn't when it came to companies and he dug up information on blends of fur as well as felting techniques that hadn't been used in years. You compare his felt from 6 years ago to anyone elses and there is no comparison, everyone else had to catch up. He's the one I saw leading the way when it came to brining up the standards of hatting ... brining them back to their roots with a higher quality felt and lots of perfection in the stitching and blocking. Nothing like it in Europe.. the best hats are definitely made in the US. At least that's my take and my experience. I was looking for a custom hat and couldn't find exactly what I wanted in vintage, and at the time couldn't find a hatter that had a felt that felt right or came out right to my specs until Graham.

Here's a question... anyone here have a Gary White hat or a custom Baron hat to show?

Me in my super lightweight gray Optimo I wear nearly everywhere. I believe I got it in 2004 and now have had it cleaned twice.
DeckardBowl-vi.jpg
Grapjite2-vi.jpg
 

metropd

One Too Many
Messages
1,764
Location
North America
RBH said:
My vote goes to Mike Moore, here is a shot of my MooreLite that i got from him this past year.

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/852/008lm0.jpg" border="0" alt="2"/></a>

Really Great color, and original style.
 

animator

One of the Regulars
Messages
231
Location
Seattle
I think the main reason to spread your business around a little is to help custom hat makers thrive. It is in the interest of everyone who really likes hats to have a number of custom makers producing options for us.

I have two hats from Art Fawcett. I bought two others (although they weren't completely custom) from Jimmy Pierce who did a fine job, also. If I had the money I would want a few hats from anyone who does good work.

I could be completely happy with only hats from Art, but I also want there to be other successful people in the business. Luckily it seems like there are a number of custom people producing great quality hats. I hope we can keep it that way. I salute all of them.:eusa_clap

Support the art-form and the Art Fawcett!
 

WEEGEE

Practically Family
Messages
996
Location
Albany , New York
Ditto

animator

"I could be completely happy with only hats from Art, but I also want there to be other successful people in the business. Luckily it seems like there are a number of custom people producing great quality hats. I hope we can keep it that way. I salute all of them.

Support the art-form and the Art Fawcett!"


I so Agree!!!
 

Harp

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,508
Location
Chicago, IL US
Matt Deckard said:
Well hatters are different and you can get to know their work sometimes by ... well by their work.



I'm keen on Optimo myself because Graham's really the first person I talked to that knew a hell of a lot about hats vintage and old. He knew stuff I knew and other's didn't when it came to companies and he dug up information on blends of fur as well as felting techniques that hadn't been used in years. You compare his felt from 6 years ago to anyone elses and there is no comparison, everyone else had to catch up. He's the one I saw leading the way when it came to brining up the standards of hatting ... brining them back to their roots with a higher quality felt and lots of perfection in the stitching and blocking. Nothing like it in Europe.. the best hats are definitely made in the US. At least that's my take and my experience. I was looking for a custom hat and couldn't find exactly what I wanted in vintage, and at the time couldn't find a hatter that had a felt that felt right or came out right to my specs until Graham.


Amen, brother. :)
 

OldSkoolFrat

A-List Customer
Messages
319
Location
Parts Unknown
I really dig my Penman and Art did the finish work on my Panama. Both do top notch work.

For custom work, their lead times are reasonable and they are great guys.
 

dostacos

Practically Family
Messages
770
Location
Los Angeles, CA
my first "real" hat was from Camptown {sadly no longer making lids,} it was an Indy hat. at the time the price was right for a semi custom hat {#21;) }

My next order was a couple of newsboys {more or less made to order}

I currently have on order a Jimmy Pierce Sahara, I loved it's look on his site.

I also just ordered an Art Fawsett, again because I loved the look of one of his hats. I also had the good fortune to sit and have dinner with Art at the Queen Mary Summit in 2007. I have wanted one of his lids for a long time, {since I first saw one in person at one of John in Covina's get togethers } I thought they were out of my price range, but I bit the bullet as it were and ordered my hat from Art, I have done the measurements and now it is just time to wait.

Will I try others? maybe, I would like to get an Indy hat by one of the hat makers that supplied a movie {probably Indiana Jones KoCS}
but having met Art, and knowing is reputation I will stick with him for future ah....NEEDS yeah that's the word NEEDS:D
 

Neil

A-List Customer
Messages
335
Location
Maryland
Which one?

I have an Optimo, and I must say, it is a regal hat. Close to perfection, I would say. But more expensive than just about everybody else.
That said, I intend to buy another.
 

BlindeMan

Familiar Face
Messages
50
Location
Ohio
I really dig my Penman and Art did the finish work on my Panama. Both do top notch work.

For custom work, their lead times are reasonable and they are great guys.

It's 'cause Art Fawcett and Bendingoak are Oregonians. C'mon, it is The Beaver State.
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
That's why the most important part of a search on this site is using the right word. In this case, Gary is certain to get more relevant results than White. Setting the search for Title of Thread only is usually the best way to start. Using that method, I got 5 results, 4 of which were about Gary White and one about Gary Cooper.
 

Not-Bogart13

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,501
Location
NE Pennsylvania
For me, I made my early decisions based on research on this forum. Price was a factor, but so was positive word of mouth. I narrowed it down to two members here, Steve of Adventurebilt (who had a lower price and more styles back then) and Art Fawcett. By happy accident, there was a communications error with Steve and my first custom was from Art. Art impressed me so much, and has yet to be outdone in my experience. So, yes, satisfaction breeds loyalty. I also really like the guy, and I prefer to give my business to those I like personally.

I am open to trying other hatters, but having found one that makes me happy, and that I have a good relationship with, makes it less important. However, AB is the king of Indy hats, so I did end up with a few. I love AB, but how many Indy hats can I guy own?

Still, I think a little variety is good. I suggest that people try to find two custom hatters that they like, because each will have his/her own distinctive style. I'm shopping for my #2 now, with Penman first on my list. If I'm as pleased as I'm expecting, I won't bother going further. Unless I get rich. Then, I'll exhaust my current list of possibles very quickly! lol
 

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