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Where YOU can buy heavy overcoats today (28oz-32oz)

yolo462140

New in Town
Messages
2
As we all know overcoats/peacoats of heavyweight (28oz-32oz) aren't the norm anymore, so I'd like to share where you can find them .

First, I'd look on Ebay for coats from the 1950s-1960s as they look to be more substantial. Other places include:

Hockerty, they sell custom overcoats of 28oz weight which can also have an additional hidden liner added for warmth.
Schott, they offer a 32oz peacoat.
Berg and Berg offered a (very expensive) 28oz Polo coat this year.

Anyone know any others?
 

GHT

Messages
10,529
Location
New Forest
Rather than start a new thread, this is close enough. I am in the market for a greatcoat style overcoat. Getting one full length, that is just about six inches off the ground, is nigh on impossible. Walker Slater came highly recommended: https://www.walkerslater.com/ Checking out their overcoats I did find one that appealed:

1701940717631.png

Walker Slater are a Scottish company and their retail shops are in Edinburgh & Glasgow. That's about 460 miles away from me, an eight to nine hour drive. However, they do have a store in London, which is within easy reach.

1701941525156.png

The Trench Coat also appeals, but not in this colour. I like the style, (without the belt) but not the colour, I am more inclined to a silver grey. In the UK January is the traditional month for winter sales, that's when I shall make my mind up.
1701941896337.png

This is a colour that I like, not the coat though, typical Amazon, not for me, thank you.
If all else fails, I shall ask my tailor, John Parrett, to quote me for one made to measure.
If you see anything that has that greatcoat style, do let me know.
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,683
I realize it's a bit unusual to describe full-price RL as a deal, but nevertheless I think I've found a deal.

It wasn't immediately accessible on the RL site; I actually found it by accident via a Google search for something else, but they have a polo coat in a beautiful tweed custom woven for them for half the price of the camelhair version.

Their polo coat layout and design are based on an original owned by the Duke of Windsor and it dresses up and down like few other coats. I believe it remains within the "Polo" line rather than Purple Label for historic reasons.
1725686215041.jpeg
At $1300, it's pricey especially compared to vintage, but around the price point of Aero/Schott/Lewis now so not really out of bounds for the subforum. And I know that if I were to even just buy comparable fabric, it would run about £1000 for the amount needed to make a coat.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,010
Don’t over spend on wool coats like I did. They’re tons out there on the used market for very little money. Add professional cleaning cost and it’s still a good deal.
IMG_1787.png
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,683
It depends.

It's easy to find pea coats and Mackinaws used. In their own way, hyper formal outerwear like opera capes are also fairly easy to find in good condition.

Wool coats that are in between, like polo coats and Ulsters, tended to have been worn hard and will be considerably damaged from use and/or moths. Vintage examples exist but they come with caveats.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,337
Location
London, UK
Picked up a couple of coats myself for the coming Winter. A few months ago, I picked up one of the MilTec peacoats styled after the old, West German naval 'colani'. I had a couple of originals, one in my late teens, the other my early 20s. The first was £20 in 1990, the second £50 in 1997. SAdly they're hens' teeth now, especially wearable, and I've never seen one in my size. The MilTec is a 50/50 wool mix as per the later period. My originals would have been about 70% wool, and they were also lined in the body not with quilt, but simply a second layer of the outer shell material. beautiful things. This repro of sorts isn't on the same level, but still feels warn and durable with a reasonable heft, and for EU60 on sale, I couldn't go far wrong. The Schott one I looked at also are now truly expensive here in the UK.... and even if you get one on sale for about £350, the UK market version has an embroidered logo on the chest. Yuck. It's subtle, but still... I'd consider the Pike Bros 1938 Peacoat (odd name; styled after the US option, but they have the post-war button configuration, and the post-1970 black colour only) if they came in blue, but... This'll do nicely for a few years anyhow when I want a casual coat to kick around in with denim.

1759328340314.png



Also recently picked up a Soldier of Fortune (in all likelihood WPG-made) 1939 pattern British army greatcoat. Ready to go for the Winter as soon as I switch over the buttons to a plain, civilian option, hopefully this weekend.

Cathcart have introduced a very nice polocoat for this season, but alas like so many of their things these days they top out at a 46, not the 48 I'd need to be able to wear it over a blazer. Gorgeous option for anyone who can take their sizes, though.



1759328324057.png
 

Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,088
Location
South of Nashville
Be careful with the Schott "peacoats." Many of the styles are a blend. The ones advertised as 100% wool are the Melton shell, not the original Kersey. Some are advertised as 32 ounces. Even if they are as advertised, the wind will cut right through the melton shell.

When the US Navy went with Melton (a cost cutting measure) in 1980, it added a relatively thick hidden liner to give the coat warmth and wind protection. There is no mention of a liner in the Schott coats, so I doubt they have them.

The best peacoats, in my opinion, are the original Kersey coats issued prior to 1980.
 

jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,208
Location
LA
Schott is not known for peacoats. I have a Gloverall peacoat I’m pretty happy with.

If I were in the market for another peacoat, I’d go vintage or with the Japanese repro (rmc, buzz rickson).

Go for 100% wool if you can find it. If not, at least 80% wool.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,337
Location
London, UK
TBH I'm still living in hope of a breakthrough in something that has all the properties of 100% , heavy wool but is actually cotton or a manmade. I am so done with dealing with mothing...
 

jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,208
Location
LA
TBH I'm still living in hope of a breakthrough in something that has all the properties of 100% , heavy wool but is actually cotton or a manmade. I am so done with dealing with mothing...

Loop and Weft’s Tomkins knit sweatshirts are 100% cotton but feel like lambswool. I own one such sweatshirt, bought used from JP, and it’s one of my fave. I don’t like moth holes, and stay away from wool and cashmere.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,337
Location
London, UK
Loop and Weft’s Tomkins knit sweatshirts are 100% cotton but feel like lambswool. I own one such sweatshirt, bought used from JP, and it’s one of my fave. I don’t like moth holes, and stay away from wool and cashmere.

Cashmere is an absolute no for me - expensive *and* fragile!
 

christianGV

New in Town
Messages
19
As we all know overcoats/peacoats of heavyweight (28oz-32oz) aren't the norm anymore, so I'd like to share where you can find them .

First, I'd look on Ebay for coats from the 1950s-1960s as they look to be more substantial. Other places include:

Hockerty, they sell custom overcoats of 28oz weight which can also have an additional hidden liner added for warmth.
Schott, they offer a 32oz peacoat.
Berg and Berg offered a (very expensive) 28oz Polo coat this year.

Anyone know any others?
Great list — you're spot on about the weight difference in older coats. Most “heavy” ones today are barely over 20oz.
If you’re chasing that real dense hand-feel, I’d also look at Private White V.C. (their Melton wool coats are around 30oz), and occasionally Grenfell or Chester Barrie pieces pop up second-hand in similar weights.
Also worth checking vintage Austrian or Italian military coats — many were made from thick 30–32oz wool blends that age beautifully.
I’ve been developing a dense cashmere knit lately, and it’s made me appreciate how rare proper weight and fiber density have become in modern outerwear. Most brands just go lighter for cost and comfort, but that old structure really changes how a piece feels and drapes.
 

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