What Hat Are You Working On Today?

[Hat and Rehat]

I don't believe I've seen a thread like this one before. It seems appropriate now though, when a lot of Loungers have time on their hands.
In my case today isn't accurate but I didn't think a thread titled "what hat were you working on yesterday" made sense.
My hat work has been on hold for a long time but late Easter evening I decided to get back to two projects I had benched a while back. Both are pretty damaged specimens, a 3X Open Road that I reblocked from 7 3/8 to 7 1/2 to fit a drummed 7 3/8 sweat into and a Bradmore that I blocked down from 6 7/8 to 6 1/2 to install a drummed 6 3/8 sweat into for a hat for my grandson. Both hats had holes and were featured in another thread about felt mending. I made my own flanges for them but still need to get band blocks squared away prior to flanging. To avoid dust in the house that's an outside job so I decided to make sweatbands last Sunday.
My needle bar needs readjusting on the sewing machine, so I decided to do it by hand. I have one complete, for the Stetson. I figured out how to do the locking stitch done by a serging machine that reeded sweats have. As you can see, the early part didn't look very clean or straight, but I got better as I went along. A nice thing about the locking stitch is that if you get a knot in your thread, or run out, you can just cut the thread then back up three stitches, stitch over them and keep going.

 

[FedoraRedHat]

I don't know if this qualifies as actual hat work, but I recently purchased a liner set for my two panama hats. Thanks to @deadlyhandsome for the recommendation. Here are the finished products:

Montecristi Havana:

Stetson Aficionado:

I used Scotch Double-Sided mounting tape under the sweatband, since I am hesitant to use hot glue on a Montecristi. It holds very well, unless you need to remount it. Surprisingly, my Akubra Stylemaster liners are glued on as well. I would have thought that they sewed them in.

 

[belfastboy]

I don't believe I've seen a thread like this one before. It seems appropriate now though, when a lot of Loungers have time on their hands.
In my case today isn't accurate but I didn't think a thread titled "what hat were you working on yesterday" made sense.
My hat work has been on hold for a long time but late Easter evening I decided to get back to two projects I had benched a while back. Both are pretty damaged specimens, a 3X Open Road that I reblocked from 7 3/8 to 7 1/2 to fit a drummed 7 3/8 sweat into and a Bradmore that I blocked down from 6 7/8 to 6 1/2 to install a drummed 6 3/8 sweat into for a hat for my grandson. Both hats had holes and were featured in another thread about felt mending. I made my own flanges for them but still need to get band blocks squared away prior to flanging. To avoid dust in the house that's an outside job so I decided to make sweatbands last Sunday.
My needle bar needs readjusting on the sewing machine, so I decided to do it by hand. I have one complete, for the Stetson. I figured out how to do the locking stitch done by a serging machine that reeded sweats have. As you can see, the early part didn't look very clean or straight, but I got better as I went along. A nice thing about the locking stitch is that if you get a knot in your thread, or run out, you can just cut the thread then View attachment 227712 View attachment 227714 View attachment 227715 View attachment 227717 View attachment 227718 back up three stitches, stitch over them and keep going.

I would appreciate if you would run through how you 'bell' a leather sweat. I have been buying them already sized and sewn and would like to save a few bucks and size my own. Do you use a ferrule to join the reed? How do you cut the sweat to bell it?

 

[Frunobulax]

I would appreciate if you would run through how you 'bell' a leather sweat. I have been buying them already sized and sewn and would like to save a few bucks and size my own. Do you use a ferrule to join the reed? How do you cut the sweat to bell it?

I've learned two ways of belling a sweat. The first is to cut the sweat to length, then cut the ends at about a five degree angle so when you join the sweat at the reed, it forms a "V." Then bring the leather together and join them with tape, and zigzag stitch if you want.

The other is to cut sweat to length and cut the reed just a bit too long. Insert the ends of the reed into the sweat and throw a couple of stitches in it to to hold it. This causes the leather band to bell when it is joined, similarly to the method above.

 

[belfastboy]

I've learned two ways of belling a sweat. The first is to cut the sweat to length, then cut the ends at about a five degree angle so when you join the sweat at the reed, it forms a "V." Then bring the leather together and join them with tape, and zigzag stitch if you want.

The other is to cut sweat to length and cut the reed just a bit too long. Insert the ends of the reed into the sweat and throw a couple of stitches in it to to hold it. This causes the leather band to bell when it is joined, similarly to the method above.

and you don't bother with the ferrule?

 

[Frunobulax]

and you don't bother with the ferrule?

Oops, sorry. Still use the ferrule.

 

[T Jones]

I would appreciate if you would run through how you 'bell' a leather sweat. I have been buying them already sized and sewn and would like to save a few bucks and size my own. Do you use a ferrule to join the reed? How do you cut the sweat to bell it?

An easy way is to take the old sweat that you're replacing and use it as a pattern for the new sweat. Of course, you'll have to cut the stitches and the reed that join the old sweat together and then lay it over top of the new one for your pattern. Make your marks and then cut it. As far as cutting the reed, I usually cut mine at 11/16 longer than the sweat. It gives a nice bell shape to where the sweat will sit nicely on top of the opening of the hat rather than sinking down inside of it...and yes. A ferrule to join the reed

 

[belfastboy]

An easy way is to take the old sweat that you're replacing and use it as a pattern for the new sweat. Of course, you'll have to cut the stitches and the reed that join the old sweat together and then lay it over top of the new one for your pattern. Make your marks and then cut it. As far as cutting the reed, I usually cut mine at 11/16 longer than the sweat. It gives a nice bell shape to where the sweat will sit nicely on top of the opening of the hat rather than sinking down inside of it...and yes. A ferrule to join the reed

Yes, I am learning the art of hand sewing in the sweats. Getting it to sit on top but not too proud I am learning can be tricky. ….and getting it to uniform around the entire circumference. I have it down to 30 mins to baste and then another hour to sew but damn I am a slow sewer. But then I have a ton of time on my hands so there is no rush.

 

[T Jones]

Yes, I am learning the art of hand sewing in the sweats. Getting it to sit on top but not too proud I am learning can be tricky. ….and getting it to uniform around the entire circumference. I have it down to 30 mins to baste and then another hour to sew but damn I am a slow sewer. But then I have a ton of time on my hands so there is no rush.

Nothing wrong with slow and calculated, BB. It's better to take it slow and to do it right than it is to rush through it and slop it up. But, your speed will pick up after you do a few, and it'll be done right because you took your time with it in the beginning.

 

[Hat and Rehat]

I would appreciate if you would run through how you 'bell' a leather sweat. I have been buying them already sized and sewn and would like to save a few bucks and size my own. Do you use a ferrule to join the reed? How do you cut the sweat to bell it?

I guess I'll add my details. Like Jim I cut the sweat leather to measured length, though I angle cut the ends a bit more dramatically, as much as 12 degrees on thin, soft leather (remember, I'm also making some myself). I cut one end of the reed flush and eyeball 1/2"- 9/16" extra on the other end. I start my back stitch at the top, a few stitches down I install the febrile, stretching the leather to do it. I put one temporary stitch there, then stitch down to it, adding my bow last. I get a pronounced bell that starts a little snug but soon stretches and relaxes.
In Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating Ermatinger talks about belling a sweat as a modification. I get the impression belling was not universal practice at the time. He suggests a hatter could get work from local retailers sizing bigger hats down when they were low on stock in a smaller size. I waa surprised, but he says cut 3/8" off of each end of the leather to reduce a hat one size. He doesn't discuss a reed or ferule there, but does acknowledge them elsewhere. Maybe he leaves the reed as is, stretching only that 3/4" out of the leather. It seems a little tricky but would allow the reed to still rest on the brink break.

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Finished today with before and after pictures of how the liner of the 7XCB OR turned out after cleaning the foxing stains without removal of the liner.
Straight bleach and a few cotton swabs.

 

[StoryPNW]

I dont work on hats the way some of you do. So, I don't know if this post fits here or somewhere else, but did you ever have a hat you couldn't stop messing with? For me that is my Beaver Brand 5X. It started out very western and has morphed into something else. I have trimmed and flattened out the brim, changed the bash, changed the leather hat band to a simple ribbon, and then just today changed out the ribbon for a pug. I like what it has turned into though.
When I got it:

Now:

 

[Randall Renshaw]

I dont work on hats the way some of you do. So, I don't know if this post fits here or somewhere else, but did you ever have a hat you couldn't stop messing with? For me that is my Beaver Bramd 5X. It started out very western and has morphed into something else. I have trimmed and flattened out the brim, changed the bash, changed the leather hat band to a simple ribbon, and then just today changed out the ribbon for a pug. I like what it has turned into though.
When I got it:
View attachment 496703
Now:
View attachment 496704
View attachment 496705

Awesome job, Story!
We shall now refer to you as, Metamorpho!

(Wonder if anyone here remembers where that name came from?)

 

[Yamahana]

I dont work on hats the way some of you do. So, I don't know if this post fits here or somewhere else, but did you ever have a hat you couldn't stop messing with? For me that is my Beaver Bramd 5X. It started out very western and has morphed into something else. I have trimmed and flattened out the brim, changed the bash, changed the leather hat band to a simple ribbon, and then just today changed out the ribbon for a pug. I like what it has turned into though.
When I got it:
View attachment 496703
Now:
View attachment 496704
View attachment 496705

Looks great

 

[StoryPNW]

Awesome job, Story!
We shall now refer to you as, Metamorpho!

(Wonder if anyone here remembers where that name came from?)

Looks great

Thank you both

 

[Woodtroll]

I dont work on hats the way some of you do. So, I don't know if this post fits here or somewhere else, but did you ever have a hat you couldn't stop messing with? For me that is my Beaver Brand 5X. It started out very western and has morphed into something else. I have trimmed and flattened out the brim, changed the bash, changed the leather hat band to a simple ribbon, and then just today changed out the ribbon for a pug. I like what it has turned into though.
When I got it:
View attachment 496703
Now:
View attachment 496704
View attachment 496705

Nice conversion job!

 

[Yamahana]

Well it sure ain’t pretty but I did it. Thank goodness the puggaree will hide my stitching. Sewed in a leather sweat from an old Knox beater in to this Panama. For the most part got it to set in a uniform bell on the brim. I’ve got 4-5 vintage panamas that need new sweats and various other work. Thought I better figure it out and start the learning curve.

 

[StoryPNW]

Well it sure ain’t pretty but I did it. Thank goodness the puggaree will hide my stitching. Sewed in a leather sweat from an old Knox beater in to this Panama. For the most part got it to set in a uniform bell on the brim. I’ve got 4-5 vintage panamas that need new sweats and various other work. Thought I better figure it out and start the learning curve.
View attachment 497415 View attachment 497416 View attachment 497417 View attachment 497418

Looks like it worked too me. I need to replace the sweat on an Adam hat I bought recently, hopefully I don't make a mess out of it.

 

[Yamahana]

TaDa! Hat number 2 today. An old Milan with rotted out sweat. I used a sweat from a modern synthetic Milan parts hat. I used lots of red basting stitches to hold it in. Probably not the best place to put the baste stitches but best I can do with my old arthritic wrist and thumb.

My stitching got better but doesn’t really show against the Milan weave. Ended up with it flared right on the brim.

 

[The Shoe]

Despite the compliments I receive here in the lounge, I just don’t feel comfortable in a cattleman crease, so today I redid the crease on my western weight Hornskov