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What hat are you waiting for today?

Messages
10,840
Location
vancouver, canada
That is so true, I can get a decent pair of shoes made for almost the same price as a bespoke hat.
I'm not familiar with US labour charges but here in the UK an artisan will charge about £20@hour, that's about $26.50. Some charge a lot more, but by and large the twenty pounds is about the benchmark.

My wife, Tina, can make one of my shirts in ten hours, start to finish. She never does though, she prefers to work for an hour or two at a time, nonetheless it's still ten hours for which the labour charge would be: £200, add on £45 for three yards of top quality fabric, then there's the cost of the paper pattern, the notions like needles, thread, buttons, interfacing and collar stiffener. Use of the electrical power, and if it were a business, wear and tear on the sewing machines. In all, another £45. That's £290 ($383.50) Broken down like that it's easy to see how you might have to sell one of your kidneys, others might even say it costs an arm and a leg.

Tina only makes clothes for ourselves and for her own pleasure. It's a consuming hobby that she has done since the age of eight. As many a Lounger has commented: "How lucky am I?"
Not sure how long it takes her but my tailor charges $150 US for a bespoke but unstructured/unlined tweed jacket ( I supply the tweed, no pattern ...she makes it up). I think that a fair price as she does impeccable work. On average I take 10 hours (8 - 12 hours depending) to build a custom hat but I am not efficient as it is all hand work, no machinery at all.
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,780
Location
New Forest
Not sure how long it takes her but my tailor charges $150 US for a bespoke but unstructured/unlined tweed jacket ( I supply the tweed, no pattern ...she makes it up). I think that a fair price as she does impeccable work. On average I take 10 hours (8 - 12 hours depending) to build a custom hat but I am not efficient as it is all hand work, no machinery at all.
There are two tailors in London that I still use. Rob Crossley of Rocacha is very competitive with his prices. If you go onto his website, scroll down on the testimonials and you will find yours truly at the very bottom.

The other is George Dyer of Threadneedleman. Like Rob, George is very competitive with his prices.

Now if only I can find a milliner with a similar price structure, wouldn't that be a find. Cheryl, the lady I use in Dorchester is good, she only does ladies hats, most for weddings and occasions like Ascot Races, but she trained in millinery for men too, she will make a man's hat to order and she's much closer to home than Esther.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
This shipped a couple days ago. Can’t wait to sink my fingers into that felt.

CC89D81F-ADA1-42BC-B72A-7E7C707ECB78.jpeg


It’s going to be a good week! Thank you Robert @belfastboy
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,780
Location
New Forest
This shipped a couple days ago. Can’t wait to sink my fingers into that felt.

View attachment 407622

It’s going to be a good week! Thank you Robert @belfastboy
It can get very addictive. Tina said to me yesterday: "If you wear that hat for much longer, it's going to take a crowbar to prise it off." "Possibly," I replied, then after a bit of quick thinking I added: "but you have to admit dear, it not only compliments the shirt and trousers that you made me, it enhances them too."

"Ooh, you old smoothie," she said, with a smile.

The hat is new, as is the novelty, made for me by a lady in Dorchester, name of Cheryl.
nutmeg hat 006.JPG
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,780
Location
New Forest
Just received word from Mr Gannon that my hat is about to go on the block.
That's a good way of putting it. Throughout my working life I have occasionally found my neck on the block.
Sahara beaver, Milaner brim treatment, copper ribbon. I am excited!
Excited, I'm so glad I'm not the only one whose like a kid at Christmas. My first Silverbelly is, or isn't on the block yet. Part of me wants to phone and ask if she has started, but part of me says, stop being a nuisance she will call when it's ready.
 
Messages
10,840
Location
vancouver, canada
That's a good way of putting it. Throughout my working life I have occasionally found my neck on the block.

Excited, I'm so glad I'm not the only one whose like a kid at Christmas. My first Silverbelly is, or isn't on the block yet. Part of me wants to phone and ask if she has started, but part of me says, stop being a nuisance she will call when it's ready.
When I was ordering hats from Mike at NW Hats and folks would post here about their visits and long chats with Mike in his store.....I wanted to yell at them, STOP......you are delaying the completion of my hat!
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,780
Location
New Forest
Why do I feel a Monty Python sketch coming on View attachment 408995

In the US it's called a cane, here in the UK we call it a walking stick, but in my house it's known as Michael, that's Michael Caine.

Sadly, Michael managed to get himself run over, I had propped it up against the garage wall as I opened the gate for Tina to reverse her car out. Michael must have lost balance and fell in the path of the reversing car.

Poor Tina, she was mortified. "It's only a walking stick," I told her, all the same as soon as she returned home she went on line and ordered a new one.

Delivery of Michael II (that's two, not eleven,) went from stupid to farcical so I phoned the courier and was told that the driver had Michael on board and was on the last leg of it's trip.

(That's a true tale.)

 

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