What era does this suit convey to the forum?

[funneman]

I seem to remember reading on this forum that extra wide, curved lapels are an indication of a suit from the 30s and 40s. Also button holes on both sides of the lapels have been mentioned as an indication of that era as well.

Hope that helps.

At any rate, it's a beautiful suit, nce drape.

Great find.

Wear it in good health.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

I seem to remember reading on this forum that extra wide, curved lapels are an indication of a suit from the 30s and 40s. Also button holes on both sides of the lapels have been mentioned as an indication of that era as well.

Hope that helps.

At any rate, it's a beautiful suit, nce drape.

Great find.

Wear it in good health.

That's intresting, because I have a double breasted suit and double breasted jacket that my family bought me new in 2006 and they both have button holes on both sides of the lapels.

 

[Levallois]

That's intresting, because I have a double breasted suit and double breasted jacket that my family bought me new in 2006 and they both have button holes on both sides of the lapels.

Do the lapels have the same shape, length and width?

 

[Bird's One View]

I've read that putting buttonholes in both lapels of a DB coat is still common in English tailoring. I don't think of it as a period-specific detail.

I like it but it's not that important to me.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

... button holes on both sides of the lapels have been mentioned as an indication of that era as well.

Mentioned incorrectly, alas.

Yes, it's true that in the 1960s, mass-market double-breasted suits began to be made without boutonniere holes on either lapel ... and then, in the 1970s and '80s, Polo Ralph Lauren made double-breasted suits with only one boutonniere hole (on the left lapel). However, many classic (bespoke, MTM or traditional label) double-breasted suits continued to be made with boutonniere holes on both sides throughout the 1960s, '70s, '80s and '90s.


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[GoldenEraFan]

Do the lapels have the same shape, length and width?

Do you mean like the suit in this picture? Or are you asking if the suit jackets lapels are the same as the sport jackets' in which case I think the lapels are the same.

 

[Warbaby]

Mentioned incorrectly, alas.

Yes, it's true that in the 1960s, mass-market double-breasted suits began to be made without boutonniere holes on either lapel ... and then, in the 1970s and '80s, Polo Ralph Lauren made double-breasted suits with only one boutonniere hole (on the left lapel). However, many classic (bespoke, MTM or traditional label) double-breasted suits continued to be made with boutonniere holes on both sides throughout the 1960s, '70s, '80s and '90s.


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Was there any significance attached to which buttonhole you wore your boutonniere in?

 

[MisterCairo]

I'm no expert, but regardless of when that suit was made it "says" late 30s/early 40s to me. It looks really smart, and I wouldn't care when it was actually made!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

... I wouldn't care when it was actually made!

Neither would I. :eusa_clap

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[scotrace]

IMO this suit strongly conveys the look of a late 1930s piece, but I do think that it was made in the 1980s or '90s. As Mr. 'H' notes, the trousers indicate its age. I also think that it's British, or from Hong Kong.


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Agree 100%

 

[kuwisdelu]

I agree with most. It looks fairly modern as for when it was actually constructed, but the stylings are very 30s. The curve of the lapel and look of the fabric is all that gives it away to me. The waistcoat is definitely very 30s, and the whole ensemble easily looks very vintage. Quite a nice suit either way. I'd love wearing it.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Agree 100%.

Are you thinking what I'm thinking, Scotrace? This suit could have been designed by Avery Lucas for St. Laurie.

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[scotrace]

That is my exact thought. The details would call it out if it were, as that house does really fine work with plenty of hand stitching and beautiful matching and sculpting. The construction of the tab on those trousers looks very much like that on mine.
I hope we get to see more of this one once it's in hand, Levallois. Can you please get us some pictures of the lining, some of the stitching? Do the cuff buttons function or are the decorative?

 

[Levallois]

I wanted the members of this forum to look at this suit without knowing anything about it in order to determine if it looked "older" based purely on what they saw in the photos.

Time for me to come-clean, as they say. Here's what I knew about the suit but held back. I still haven't received it yet. The suit was made/sold by Hector Powe in 1956. The pants have a zipper and do not have cuffs - something that I'll have to deal with when it gets here. The cuff buttons are functional and the jacket and vest are lined but I don't know about the hand stitching. I can't find out much about Hector Powe - I don't know if they made suits or just sold them in the mid-50s. I was hoping the suit could pass for the 1930s (my favorite era) because finding an original size 44 is next to impossible. Most here agreed that it could pass for that range or a little younger but it had modern characteristics as well. I paid too much for the suit but a similar suit today would be many. many times as much.

The knowledge that exists on this forum is amazing. I aspire to be as good at picking out the suit characteristics as you all are. I thank you all very much for your insights and comments. I will photo the heck out of it when it arrives.

John

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Well, blow me down! I'm surprised by the 1956 date, but not by the fact that it was made by/for a British (or Canadian?) concern.


Great suit, great purchase, great fun! :eusa_clap


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[reetpleat]

It is funny to debate from photos, when two minutes in the hands of me or many other members would give a conclusive answer. Actually, five seconds to feel the weight of the jacket and the hand of the fabric would possibly be enough. But all the pertinent points were hit.

I would say that if you are lucky enough to get a 50s suit that has the jacket looking that 30s, you are doing well and don't have to worry about the pants. They will still be pretty close. It is usually the jacket that gives it away through the late fifties

 

[reetpleat]

Actually, taking a closer look now, I can see that the fabric is very fifties. I could see this in a 50s single breasted with pleated or straight front pants. It would be a classic suit, along the man in the grey flannel suit lines.

 

[Levallois]

I got the suit and it's beautiful. In terms of weight the jacket feels like an overcoat - I don't know what a 1930's jacket feels like but if it was heavier than this then they must have taken them off immediately once they got inside. I got hot in 30 seconds in air conditioning.

You'll notice the color is different than in the first photos - the seller's flash bleached it out. This is a charcoal grey in my book. I tried to photo seams, linings etc. but you can certainly ask for what you need to look at. I couldn't be happier with the darn thing - fits like a glove - except for the vest - too small by about 3/4". More to follow once I know what you need to see. Thanks!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

This is a wonderful suit from a cold climate! (Britain? Canada?)


You can easily get the vest's back expanded to fit you -- I've had it done many times. Just take the vest to a tailor.


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[Levallois]

Thanks Marc! It was made.sold by Hector Powe

- so was this bespoke or semi-custom off the rack?