What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

[Aloysius]

Oh you should freeze it, dry clean, or take a bath with it on. I imagine the gold rushers were doing just that with their Levi's. Smh.

Don't forget the guy on /r/rawdenim a few years ago who was angry that his family member washed his shat-in jeans…

Incidentally, this is another thing that divides weebs from the Japanese. The Japanese denim producers were very confused when denim guys were asking them how to safely clean/maintain denim, because they didn't understand why someone wouldn't just throw them in the washing machine.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Don't forget the guy on /r/rawdenim a few years ago who was angry that his family member washed his shat-in jeans…

Incidentally, this is another thing that divides weebs from the Japanese. The Japanese denim producers were very confused when denim guys were asking them how to safely clean/maintain denim, because they didn't understand why someone wouldn't just throw them in the washing machine.

People like to find things to obsess about. Don't get me wrong though, I get wanting something "authentic" but then proclaiming that it's somehow better beyond satisfying some sort of geeky obsession is beyond me.

Just feel like slot of makers like to sell window dressing with unskived edges, stitches per inch, etc.

 

[Blackadder]

But this one is crooked

View attachment 393582

Yes. Lots of issues with that one. The D pocket is sewed too low (wonder if he was watching TV) while doing that He must have known about the mistake as the belt loop then end up on top of the D pocket. It seems he let that be and did not remake it. That if I am not mistaken is how a shorter length original ladies Buco look, the belt loop is sewed on top of the D pocket.
This is Terry's
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-j-21-shinki-teacore-horsehide-size-46.93805/
You can see that there does not seem to be much change in the pattern of each piece (even the same extra large D pocket) but everything is in the right position.

 

[Marc mndt]

Yes. Lots of issues with that one.

Take another look and try to imagine how it looks zipped up (the lapels).

 

[Blackadder]

Take another look and try to imagine how it looks zipped up (the lapels).

I don't understand. I agree that there are lots of issues but I also don't think that is a pattern/cut problem like FCL. It can be skewed if everything is sewed onto a wrong part which is what I think he did with A-1's jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

I don't understand. I agree that there are lots of issues but I also don't think that is a pattern/cut problem like FCL. It can be skewed if everything is sewed onto a wrong part which is what I think he did with A-1's jacket.

Proper buco pattern zipped up:

DD buco zipped up

 

[ton312]

I’ve got an A-2 from Diamond Dave that is a well made jacket. I can’t imagine that mine is the only one either.

I’m sure that’s true and I’m not hating on DD. Comment based exclusively on the examples I’ve seen here. Wonky stitches, cuts in the leather, odd proportions, zipper stoping at seemingly random point. In all fairness, I do think an A-2 carries less degree of difficulty than even a modest cafe racer, unless it’s based on some sort of historically accurate x,y,z…

 

[Aloysius]

Proper buco pattern zipped up:

View attachment 393595 View attachment 393596 View attachment 393597



DD buco zipped up

View attachment 393599

The second one has to be right because A*ro jackets zip up like the first example.

 

[Blackadder]

Proper buco pattern zipped up:

View attachment 393595 View attachment 393596 View attachment 393597



DD buco zipped up

View attachment 393599

Really? Is that the only DD J-21 you have seen? Have you looked at Terry's DD which I quoted? There is a video of Terry zipping up. The zipper on his is fine which is why I said it is not pattern problem. DD screwed up A-1's jacket which I already agreed.
BTW, this is Mystero's
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-diamond-dave-buco-j21-steerhide-sz-44.96115/

 

[Marc mndt]

Really? Is that the only DD J-21 you have seen? Have you looked at Terry's DD which I quoted? There is a video of Terry zipping up. The zipper on his is fine which is why I said it is not pattern problem. DD screwed up A-1's jacket which I already agreed.
BTW, this is Mystero's
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-diamond-dave-buco-j21-steerhide-sz-44.96115/

Oh sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you didn't see how he messed up the lapels on that jacket. Yes Terry's and mystery's jackets look fine. But I've seen just as many screw-ups.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/buco-jh-1.94712/

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Most guys into denim that know anything also make fun of the weirdos that don't wash their jeans. As someone who is into raw denim, I have to point out that some of us actually have brains and wash our jeans like normal people.

Also, not all of us want to look like urban lumberjack hipster batista from Seattle. Some of us want to look like 1930s railroad workers, thank you very much!

 

[Carlos840]

Proper buco pattern zipped up:

View attachment 393595 View attachment 393596 View attachment 393597



DD buco zipped up

View attachment 393599

Let's not forget this beautifully installed belt loop on one of my Diamond Dave jackets, this is a proper craftsman at work:

 

[Rgcards]

How many people here have washed a pair of jeans and have them come out of the wash 2 sizes smaller?

 

[Will Zach]

Let's not forget this beautifully installed belt loop on one of my Diamond Dave jackets, this is a proper craftsman at work:

This jacket should have gone straight to Dena for repairs.

 

[dwilson]

How many people here have washed a pair of jeans and have them come out of the wash 2 sizes smaller?

Probably everyone who has bought unsanforized denim? Thats why you need to put them in a machine when you first get them unless you really want them to shrink some more if you just hot soak.

 

[Rgcards]

Poorly fitted freewheelers

 

[Rgcards]

Well fitted aero

 

[JMax]

Well, I like how both fit. I’m digging the bathroom too.

 

[Marc mndt]

Poorly fitted freewheelers View attachment 393800

Do you mean the overhang / wide bottom hem?

I have the same problem with this type of jacket since I have no hips. Doesn't look good:

It depends on the type of jacket whether or not the overhang makes it look bad. Both of these have the overhang but I don't think they look bad at all.

 

[Rich22]

Do you mean the overhang / wide bottom hem?

View attachment 393803

I have the same problem with this type of jacket since I have no hips. Doesn't look good:

View attachment 393804

It depends on the type of jacket whether or not the overhang makes it look bad. Both of these have the overhang but I don't think they look bad at all.

View attachment 393805

The overhang never looks good, I think, it's just a failure of fit on a slim man. However it isn't enough to ruin a jacket. The brown jacket on the right still looks great, though it would undoubtedly be better with the correct fit around your hips. The black jacket on the left would suit a man with a torso shorter than yours, as it is (in my eyes) too short in the front. Combine that with the overhang and it appears as though it doesn't fit ideally.

My hips are wider than my stomach, so some flair around the hem would allow a jacket that is snug around my stomach to fit on my hips, especially as I also stand with an anterior pelvic tilt and have a big ass from weightlifting/sport, but I only have one jacket that snug. Fitting guys snuggly with stomachs smaller than hips is surely the only intentional reason for jackets to flair out at the bottom. If there's overhang, it's simply too big around the hips/hem.

Edit: Various corrections.