Welting a raw brim

[carldelo]

Does anyone have any idea how much of the brim would be consumed when changing a raw brim to an underwelt? I'm thinking of having a welted edge added to my sage Chatham that has some modest rippling issues. The felt is fairly thick, a full 1/8". As-is, the brim is 2-3/8" wide and I'm wondering how wide it might wind up being. Thanks for any info.

PS the other option is to have a brim binding added, and I may be swapping the stock ribbon for a thin OR style ribbon.

 

[4and1]

I am sure you know you'd lose at least 3/8'' and possibly 1/2''. But if you get the new thin ribbon and binding in an unusual color you'll have a hat that is unique.

I wonder if there are any custom hatters who would make a new hat with a felted edge.

 

[Mario]

I wonder if there are any custom hatters who would make a new hat with a felted edge.

You mean felted edge as in Cavanagh Edge or Guild Edge? Well, then: no. It seems that no one is able to do this anymore. A lost art.

 

[daizawaguy]

A newly discovered `Art`...

 

[daizawaguy]

"Look Ma, no stitches...!"

 

[daizawaguy]

Better than a cavenach, and you can even get a rainbow ribbon...!lol

 

[daizawaguy]

Oh, and to answer your question, Sir - you lose what you flip over... 1/4" felted loses you 1/4" except for the "U" of the flip, which is double the thickness of the felt. Any physics (or hat experts) who can thrash out this formula...?lol

 

[carldelo]

Oh, and to answer your question, Sir - you lose what you flip over... 1/4" felted loses you 1/4" except for the "U" of the flip, which is double the thickness of the felt. Any physics (or hat experts) who can thrash out this formula...?lol

Your analysis is correct --- if the felt is inextensible and incompressible (I love those terms). I'm imagining there's some stretching going on in the process, and I wonder if any trimming is done after the stitching of the welt. I should just go to Worth & Worth and ask them - I was hoping someone had some first-hand experience. The welting on my Ashland is 1/4", but I'm guessing it uses up more than that from the raw brim.

But all that aside - what is the edge treatment on your VS? It looks amazing...

 

[daizawaguy]

But all that aside - what is the edge treatment on your VS? It looks amazing...

A simple overwelt. I remember only not too long ago that Art was new to this...but boy, was I amazed at the finish. From a few feet away looks like a cavenach. I wish I had ordered this finish some time back...

 

[avedwards]

A simple overwelt. I remember only not too long ago that Art was new to this...but boy, was I amazed at the finish. From a few feet away looks like a cavenach. I wish I had ordered this finish some time back...

It doesn't look very simple to me. Looks more like extremely carefully stitched. Simple overwelts are what you find on cheap wool felt hats.

 

[daizawaguy]

OOps! Right! "An extreemly delicately stitched overwelt, so fine it`s hard to find the stitches"...How`s that?

 

[carldelo]

OOps! Right! "An extreemly delicately stitched overwelt, so fine it`s hard to find the stitches"...How`s that?

You said it - I can barely make out those stitches - very sweet!

 

[carldelo]

I am sure you know you'd lose at least 3/8'' and possibly 1/2''. But if you get the new thin ribbon and binding in an unusual color you'll have a hat that is unique.

I think you're probably right and I'm leaning in this direction...

I wonder if there are any custom hatters who would make a new hat with a felted edge.

Sure, but you need a Way-Back machine to get to their shop...

 

[kaosharper1]

You mean felted edge as in Cavanagh Edge or Guild Edge? Well, then: no. It seems that no one is able to do this anymore. A lost art.

Probably lost technology in addition to a lost art. The felting machines that did that are probably long gone since my understanding is that the edge was achieved during the actual felting process.

 

[Topdog]

if I remember correctly, Art can only do this on a light weight felt. The regular dress felts that Art uses are too thick for his sewing machine.

 

[jwalls]

Probably lost technology in addition to a lost art. The felting machines that did that are probably long gone since my understanding is that the edge was achieved during the actual felting process.

I believe you are right about this style edge being part of the felting process. Winchester may still be able to do it but the order mininum would be substantial.

 

[Art Fawcett]

I believe you are right about this style edge being part of the felting process. Winchester may still be able to do it but the order mininum would be substantial.

You are half right Mr. Walls, they have done the process for Brad Bowers, sending him the examples of the stages it goes through ( 32 steps) but have told me flat out "NOT AT ANY PRICE..NO WAY". The investment in time and the needed inventory to cover all sizes is just more than the market can bear.

Topdog, I can now work with my dress weights and get a welted edge. It's something I've been working on for a while.

Carldelo, I'd urge you to bind it rather than welting. You'd end up with less that a 2" brim.

 

[XPLSV]

You are half right Mr. Walls, they have done the process for Brad Bowers, sending him the examples of the stages it goes through ( 32 steps) but have told me flat out "NOT AT ANY PRICE..NO WAY". The investment in time and the needed inventory to cover all sizes is just more than the market can bear.

I've always wondered what the price point/quantity point might be for something like this to happen...and have often wondered if Steve's orders would have supported such...of course, his stuff is raw edge and wouldn't have matched up...

I do love that overwelt, though, Art! One of these days...

Bernie

 

[marvelgoose]

PS the other option is to have a brim binding added, and I may be swapping the stock ribbon for a thin OR style ribbon.

Hold on Carldelo! Optimo shipped my Chatham with the 9 ligne binding on Tuesday. Unlike PanamaDUD, I'll post pictures!

 

[carldelo]

Carldelo, I'd urge you to bind it rather than welting. You'd end up with less that a 2" brim.

Thanks, that's what I needed to hear - I definitely do not want a brim that stingy.

Hold on Carldelo! Optimo shipped my Chatham with the 9 ligne binding on Tuesday. Unlike PanamaDUD, I'll post pictures!

Yeah, that's the ticket! I can't wait to see it...

I just saw gtdean's new green Akubra CD on the Green Machine thread, and I'm thinking I could use that as a template for my sage Chatham.

Thanks for all the input so far...