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well priced selvedged jeans

Gobble

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Australia
In addition to the thread on Gustin I am wondering what the feeling is on here about having a thread that discusses other lower priced selvedge jeans. I did mention Lawless earlier to see if anyone had purchased from them. However, I don't want to seem like a shill. Therefore I wanted to get other members' perspectives on having a thread where similar companies including Gustin can be discussed and compared. There are a bunch of other start ups that are using the Gustin model or something similar and many of them are using the same fabrics so I think there are good grounds for comparison. For instance I know of at least 4 companies all US based that are doing locally produced selvedge for good prices. There have been a couple of times where good deals have come up but I have been hesitant to raise them as I don't want to be viewed as pushing the product. Anyway I will wait to see if there is interest amongst the community.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,425
Location
Glasgow
Freddies of Pinewood do well-priced 40s and 50s vintage-style selvage denim, they even do unsanforised for under £100. I wouldn't say that they were Gustin standard but they have a rough-hewn charm and a high waist that suits vintage leather jackets. The only problem for me is that they seem to have stopped doing 30" waists, something to do with a lack of demand. I found one pair on eBay, but I've never come across them since, which is a shame.

http://www.freddiesofpinewood.co.uk/categories/mens/4-jeans
 

gaseousclay

Familiar Face
Messages
63
if non-US made selvedge denim isn't a big deal then check Uniqlo. they're currently running a promo for selvedge jeans - two for $79.80. Combatant Gentleman is another that has inexpensive selvedge (made in Macau I believe).
 

bentusian

One of the Regulars
Messages
259
Location
NYC
if non-US made selvedge denim isn't a big deal then check Uniqlo. they're currently running a promo for selvedge jeans - two for $79.80.

+1 on Uniqlo selvedge. I own a few selvedge jeans from several brands like LVC, PBJ, RRL, Left Field, but most of the time I end up wearing Uniqlo.
Their previous run with button fly was truly cost effective.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,078
Location
London, UK
Have they improved the waists on the Uniqlo models of late? The last pair I looked at were a few years ago. The waist on them was terribly low, pointless me trying them on, really. Shame, as otherwise the quality wasn't bad. Freddies are nice - especially now they've finally restocked their 40s pattern. I think my Freddies are the most expensive pair of jeans I ever bought. I've looked at and admire the £200-odds stuff, but could never justify the money in them.
 

zhz

Practically Family
Messages
890
Location
China, London and Coventry UK
The money goes to the denim fabric, the hardwear and the research in pattern (repro only).
As for UNIQLO, I dont think there is any improvements on waist, because they try to made a modern jeans...

Have they improved the waists on the Uniqlo models of late? The last pair I looked at were a few years ago. The waist on them was terribly low, pointless me trying them on, really. Shame, as otherwise the quality wasn't bad. Freddies are nice - especially now they've finally restocked their 40s pattern. I think my Freddies are the most expensive pair of jeans I ever bought. I've looked at and admire the £200-odds stuff, but could never justify the money in them.
 

Gobble

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Australia
Okay, great, seems like there is at least a bit of interest.

So far the ones that I know of and/or have purchased from are:

Gustin: needs no introduction

Lawless: Their website is meant to be up this week http://lawlessdenim.com/ in the meantime there is https://www.facebook.com/lawlessdenim and https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lawlessdenim/put-americans-to-work-making-heritage-jeans/posts. They will offer about 5 different fits and also customisation such as thread, button type etc. They also seem the cheapest with prices starting at 80 dollars and will also start producing their own selvedge denims as they have a loom.

Ciano Farmer: Only available at kickstarter at the moment but have a website (http://www.cianofarmer.com/index.html) and have been investing heavily in vintage sewing machinery. Their jeans are highly customisable and have some really good deals on many of the same fabrics Gustin uses https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1183519153/ciano-farmer-selvage-denim-personally-handcrafted http://www.cianofarmer.com/

RPM West: They seem to use kickstarter as one of their ways of selling despite being established, so far they have run two successful kickstarter campaigns. https://www.rpmwest.com/perfect-jeans-delivered https://www.kickstarter.com/project...y-japanese-selvedge-denim-jeans?ref=discovery

Dulac: Currently have an online store but it is not live although you can see the denims and prices, will be launching a kickstarter this month http://www.dulacstudio.com/

I know there are lots more smaller producers of selvedge jeans in US but I have focused on the ones that are around that 100 dollar mark.

So far I have purchased at least one pair of jeans from each except Dulac as I am trying to find the right fit, quality, and service. Gustin is the only one that I have received the jeans from thus far so it may be a little unfair to give my opinion as it is not a comparison but I may as well start somewhere. As far as customer service go Gustin are very obliging but they have some real quality control issues with sizing being very erratic. Although Gustin generally acknowledge and allow returns on their mistakes when you are based on the other side of the world plus have waited several months it doesn't make for a good buying experience.

It seems like some there is a split between those that outsource and those that produce in house. Lawless and Ciano Farmer both produce their own jeans and thus give you more options which so far includes free custom inseams which for me saves a lot of hassle and paying an extra 20 dollars to get it done after you have received them does add up with the other vendors. Lawless, however, are going to start contracting out as well so I don’t know whether they will continue to offer these extras. Anyway it is really encouraging to see all these business moving into the market space and making quality products at reasonably affordable prices.
 

coloradorider

One of the Regulars
Messages
182
Location
Denver, CO
A friend has a pair of bespoke denim from SOSO Clothing in Sweden and they're very unique. They are also pretty cost effective (currently US$150/pr or US$225/2 pr) with free worldwide shipping. I think these prices include VAT so US$120/pr or US$180 for jeans shipped outside the EU.

SOSO's bespoke looks pretty slick on the website. You can choose your fabric, fit, waist size, length, thread color, patch style, hardware color, and fly type.
 

schitzo

Suspended
Messages
1,472
Location
London
this thread is shaping up very nicely, I only wish I had something to contribute. I don't, yet, except for, keep it coming men!

If I buy from one of these though I'll post pics. SOSO looks very interesting
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
One of the factors that often seems to be overlooked is the quality of construction, including the materials apart from the actual denim. Hopefully that would apply to high end jeans as compared to inexpensive mall jeans, although I'm uncertain that is necessarily the case. Although Bill's Khaki 14-oz. Original Denim 5 pocket jeans are not made with selvedge denim, their jeans seem almost indestructible. Even the front inside pockets are made with the same cotton twill used on their signature 8.5-oz. cotton twill pants. The main drawback to all of Bill's 5 pocket jeans is that the maximum inseam is only 34 inches. How neat it would be if Bill were to design an 18-oz. selvedge denim with a 36" inseam. The main point I wanted to make with this post was not regarding Bill's jeans but to emphasize the importance of quality of construction and the materials used, particularly the front inside pockets that can tend to quickly wear through if one tends to use those pockets a great deal.
 

GriffDeLaGriff

One Too Many
Messages
1,203
Location
Sweden
I have non selvadge raw denim that has held up better then more expensive selvadge denim (about same oz) so yes, its probably more the construction and overall quality that matters. It doesnt matter if its expensive selvadge if there is a hiccup in the weave and that is placed on the heartseem (seem between backpockets) bc the jeans will blow omg even tho there is a red line in the end of the weave on each leg! :)D)
 

GriffDeLaGriff

One Too Many
Messages
1,203
Location
Sweden
this thread is shaping up very nicely, I only wish I had something to contribute. I don't, yet, except for, keep it coming men!

If I buy from one of these though I'll post pics. SOSO looks very interesting

U sure? They only go as dense as 13oz. Offcourse you have the choice of eggshell thread on black denim :D
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
I just got 1940s USN repros from a brand called Lutece Mfg. Co.
As far as I know they are about 13 oz selvedge denim. Certainly heavy enough for me. But the important part is the HIGH RISE and wide leg, buckle back.

On the downside they are Made in Thailand. But as long Gustin and the others make slim fit jeans I won't buy their stuff. Period.[huh]


The go for about £50 or 70-80€ on various ebay shops and other reenactment supply internet shops.
 
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