Watch Chains

[Anthony Jordan]

Esteemed fellow Loungers, having read through all 20 pages of this thread with a question, I am none the wiser, albeit undoubtedly now better-informed. Perhaps you can help!

Whilst on holiday in the Netherlands last year I bought myself a cheap vintage pocket watch. The silver plate was very worn and I doubted if it would keep very good time but nonetheless I really wanted it for some reason and got the seller to bring the price down to the 10 Euros which constituted all my remaining spending money...

Anyway, it came with a twisted fancy chain, with no t-bar, in a very coppery brass which really didn't look right with the brassy/silver tones of the watch. Therefore, before Christmas I was moved to try and find a better chain for it, getting through two handsome, but not quite right, chains before eventually settling for the one illustrated, which was the right price and (being in two tones, brass and white metal) worked well, I thought.

My watch and chain:

The other contenders, now on their way to good homes:

Bearing in mind that I am only used to my family heirloom heavy silver watchchain, a single Albert with t-bar, the one common denominator with these, which caught me by surprise, was the ring catch where I thought the t-bar would be. In my simplicity, I thought that its purpose was to clip "around" the waiscoat buttonhole, if you follow me, so that it would serve much the same anchoring function as a t-bar, just in a different way. The span of the catch, however, makes a nonsense of this, as I swiftly found out. My question, then, is - what is it for? I am coming around to the view that I am supposed to thread the chain through the buttonhole with watch in one pocket and something else on the other - is this correct? Any information welcome!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

My question, then, is - what is it for? I am coming around to the view that I am supposed to thread the chain through the buttonhole with watch in one pocket and something else on the other - is this correct? Any information welcome!

In the 1920s and '30s (in America, at least), t-bars began to be unfashionable. Instead, men began to wear their new chains --chains just like yours-- hanging across from the lefthand waistcoat pocket to the righthand one (either the upper or the lower pockets, according to taste). On one end of the chain would be the watch; on the other, a pocket knife, a cigar cutter, or perhaps a retractable pencil. The chain was not meant to go through any buttonhole, but rather to hang freely.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Thanks Marc, very helpful indeed! In that case, I'd welcome any further suggestions as to what might be a good accompaniment to the other end of the chain. I am quite tempted by a vesta case (always courteous to have a light for a lady) or a pocket compass...

 

[undertaker]

I have smaller pocket knives that I wear on the end of my watch chains. I have a white gold filled on and a yellow gold filled one. The weight keeps that end of the chain securely in the pocket.
Regards,
J.S.

 

[Shangas]

Personally I only use bolt-ring chains for my trousers. The free-hanging chain thing sounds a bit risky for me (in case the watch falls out of your pocket).

There are a number of things you can clip onto the other end of your chain.

Pocketknives.
Vesta cases.
Compasses.
Sealing-stamps.
Coins.
Pocket fountain pens.
Coin-cases.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The free-hanging chain thing sounds a bit risky for me (in case the watch falls out of your pocket).

I've found that it isn't risky, at least with vintage waistcoats. Here's why: the waistcoats' pockets tend to be deep and tight (especially if the waistcoat fits you snugly, as it should), and the pocket lining fabrics aren't slippery.

 

[nihil]

I wear both modern and vintage waistcoats and have never had any problem with a pocketwatch falling out. The weight of the watch itself does a good job at keeping it inside the pocket.

 

[ShrunkinCowboy]

My watch chain belonged to my Great-Grandfather.
I inherited it, along with his eight-sided Waltham pocket watch.
When he retired in 1935 as a Rabbi in Utica, NY, his congregation gave him the Waltham as a retirement gift.

Steve

 

[Shangas]

I've found that it isn't risky, at least with vintage waistcoats. Here's why: the waistcoats' pockets tend to be deep and tight (especially if the waistcoat fits you snugly, as it should), and the pocket lining fabrics aren't slippery.

I have waistcoats like that. And a bolt-ring chain. maybe one day I'll give it a shot.

Well, here's my little effort.

I usually use this chain only for when I wear my pocketwatch with trousers. I know the bolt-ring is significantly bigger, but here's the results:

Watch and vest-pocket fountain pen.

 

[undertaker]

Is that a Ball watch? I can't seem to make out the writing on the dial.

J.S.

 

[Shangas]

Hi,

Yes it is. It says:

BALL
Official RR Standard
Cleveland​

 

[undertaker]

I have owned several Railroad Approved watches, Hamilton, Illinois,....... and such, but I don't think I have ever come across a Ball. I have read about them and it looks like a fine watch.

Regards,
J.S.

 

[Shangas]

Thanks. I love it too

 

[undertaker]

Here is a shot of the watches, chains, and "trinkets" associated with them, that I wear most often. I have a cigar cutter somewhere and a human hair watch chain with a wonderful carved intaglio but I can't seem to remember where I have put them:eusa_doh:.

Regards,
J.S.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Thank you all for your suggestions and pictures of your own watch/chain/fob combinations. Duly inspired, I rooted around in one of my junk boxes and disinterred this old family gold-filled Wahl Eversharp. Whilst the combination of the coppery tone of the pencil with the brassy tone of the watch and chain is not perfect, I think I am happy for the time being. Thanks once again!

 

[DeaconKC]

That is an outstanding combination! Truly elegant!

 

[undertaker]

combination of the coppery tone of the pencil with the brassy tone of the watch and chain is not perfect

You might try a jewelry polishing cloth on the pencil. Sometime gold filled items have that tarnish to them and a light buffing with a polish cloth will bring the gold back.

J.S.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

DeaconKC, you're very kind!

Undertaker, thanks for the tip on the pencil, which I will certainly bear in mind.

The watch is a Kienzle, which I believe is a fairly old-established firm of German watchmakers. I haven't been able to find out much about them, except that they made watches at a number of quality levels, and I suspect that this may have been one of the cheaper ones. I'd welcome any further information.

 

[Shangas]

I should warn, most of these old vest-pocket pens and pencils are only gold-filled. Polish them sparingly, or you'll strip off all the gold.

 

[undertaker]

I should warn, most of these old vest-pocket pens and pencils are only gold-filled. Polish them sparingly, or you'll strip off all the gold.

Yes Sir. That is why I use the cloth. I know some guys who polish gold filled watch cases on the buffing machine, but it is just too scary to me. A little too long or a little too much jeweler's rouge and nothing but brass, ask me how I know:eusa_doh:. They do not seem to tarnish when you carry or use them like they do laying around in a box.