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Was Roughwear The Original Manufacturer Of The Iconic Hercules Jacket?

Messages
11,148
Location
SoCal
I remember way back when I ordered my Imperial from GW that I had a discussion with John about these jackets making everyone look like they had a potbelly. Once he patterned his Herc repro, he wrote that the center zip does indeed curve outwards. You can see it in this vintage photo. Few makers incorporate it these days, but it is an original detail.
 

RiteStuffBryan

One of the Regulars
Messages
127
I’m guessing it’s the extra length in the body; the bottom end is pushing against the upper thighs which in turn is pushing the zipper back up.

Any kind of bottom panel or patch pockets also tends to accentuate the gut region too :D
 
Messages
11,148
Location
SoCal
it's actually added into the pattern along the main zip.
Screen Shot 2023-08-08 at 7.37.26 AM.png

I first noticed it on a FL members jacket back in 2011, but the images are lost to PhotoBucket and the great erasure. It interests me that this pattern is a 3D design with the buldge going all the way-round the body.
Screen Shot 2023-08-08 at 7.51.33 AM.png

people don't design like that anymore. a real quirk (and kinda cool) IMO.
 
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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,679
Is this a vintage jacket or a repro? If it is a Roughwear vintage jacket, then what does the back look like?

m19099226503_1.jpg
 
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Messages
17,494
Location
Chicago
I remember way back when I ordered my Imperial from GW that I had a discussion with John about these jackets making everyone look like they had a potbelly. Once he patterned his Herc repro, he wrote that the center zip does indeed curve outwards. You can see it in this vintage photo. Few makers incorporate it these days, but it is an original detail.
I hate it. It’s actually the primary reason that the fever over the OG Herc is lost on me. There’s plenty of pizza and beer in the world to make me fat. Jacket should hide that IMO.
 

RiteStuffBryan

One of the Regulars
Messages
127
Looks better for it too. I think most repros actually exceed the original aesthetically in the case of this model. My Aero version was modified and also looked far better.

Considering how well Jake’s fits him I’d have to disagree there, most repros just don’t get the proportions right.
 

RiteStuffBryan

One of the Regulars
Messages
127
Definitely, I’m not a fan of things fitting slim, I’d much rather have a “powerful” silhouette than anything slim or sleek.
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
Messages
591
Definitely, I’m not a fan of things fitting slim, I’d much rather have a “powerful” silhouette than anything slim or sleek.
Leather jackets are one of the few articles of clothing that I prefer a trim fit.

The back of the Hercules however really does give a powerful expression though, the shape of the three back panels tapering towards the half belt, it's always given off the impression of a very nice V-taper to me, even if the front of the same jacket may look completely straight cut.
 

RiteStuffBryan

One of the Regulars
Messages
127
Got my BK Heracles in black Liberty horsehide in and took some pics:

-I had custom taffeta a d damask woven tags done up for this one as it’s a sample in case I want to do a run of them.
-Changed the cuff adjuster to the early, rounded style
-Switched out the waist adjuster buckle for a rectangular nickel one
-Changed the pocket zipper to a Talon ball and chain
-Asked for the cuff to be slightly smaller but not too small

This Liberty HH is very soft and ready to wear, no break in required but it does have some heft to it. Interesting smoky smell. If I’d do anything differently I might change the hand warmer pocket bag lining to corduroy:

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robrinay

One Too Many
Messages
1,490
Location
Sheffield UK
This Hercules is arriving today -I’ve always wondered if the label while hinting at California Sportswear really was made by them.
 

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