Wanna 1920s/'30s-style Newsboy Cap? Have One Made!

[Marc Chevalier]

This is definitely an intriguing idea. I also pick up Harris Tweed jackets whenever I find them at the thrift shops. I have a half-dozen that I wear regularly, but as I find others that I like better, I replace ones that I have and move the outcasts to a rack in the garage. At this point I have a couple dozen that I've been wondering what to do with. Wonder how difficult it is to make a cap? I just might have a go at it. Does anyone know where I can get patterns?

The challenge lies in making a cap like they made in the '20s and '30s. Cap patterns from that era are exceedingly difficult (though not impossible) to find. I can't stress this enough: today's caps don't really look like golden era caps. Just wanted you to be aware, that's all.

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[Warbaby]

The challenge lies in making a cap like they made in the '20s and '30s. Cap patterns from that era are exceedingly difficult (though not impossible) to find. I can't stress this enough: today's caps don't really look like golden era caps. Just wanted you to be aware, that's all.

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I think I'll start watching eBay and elsewhere not only for patterns, but for a real vintage newsboy that's too ratty and motheaten to wear so I can dismantle it with a clear conscience.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I think I'll start watching eBay and elsewhere not only for patterns, but for a real vintage newsboy that's too ratty and motheaten to wear so I can dismantle it with a clear conscience.

Good idea. Just promise that you'll not succumb to the temptation to dismantle one that's in good condition -- even if it's not your size.

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[reetpleat]

I know that a good tailor can replicate a suit or pattern without dismantling, or so I have been told. I don't imagine a cap would be half as difficult as that. in other words, I don't think it would be necessery to dismantle to make a pattern.

 

[carter]

I know that a good tailor can replicate a suit or pattern without dismantling, or so I have been told. I don't imagine a cap would be half as difficult as that. in other words, I don't think it would be necessery to dismantle to make a pattern.

This is probably the case if one can find a cap maker or someone who would undertake the project.
The cap Marc posted may look simple but could be tricky to execute. The single piece of material must be of a size to allow the forming of the crown and then have darts (is this the correct term) cut in (looks like 8 darts) so the material will taper down to a specific head size. Therefore, the dart cuts and the amount of material at the head opening (is there a name for this) will (I think) differ depending on the cap size.
There is also the matter of the lining and the sweatband. On the cap Marc posted, it appears that the lining (which could be made from recycled coat/jacket lining material) and sweatband are the same material until we arrive at the brim. Then the sweatband looks to be leather.
Finally, there is the matter of the brim. How wide is it, how deep, and what is the curvature? Also, what stiffiner or shape is between the two layers of fabric on the brim? And... what is the correct placement for the snap (if one is used)?
Seems to me that a novice/beginner/hobbyist would need to make their initial cap from an inexpensive material so they can work out the kinks. Once they have it sorted they can start using better goods.
I think this could be a profitable cottage industry as long as old tweeds and fabrics are readily available in thrift stores and yard/estate sales.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

What Carter said. Agreed on all counts. It does have 8 darts all around the sides (something that today's 1-piece caps don't have), and it is complicated.

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[carter]

Snap placement

Here's a comparison on vintage 8-panel caps and the placement of the snap.
On the Knapp-Felt cap in this ad, the snap appears to be located relatively deep on the brim (close to the crown). This allows the body of the cap to be shaped in a variety of ways.

On the flat cap Marc posted, the snap is located farther forward on the brim (farther from the crown). This allows less movement in the body of the cap and less brim exposure.

Admittedly, this is apples and oranges as the caps are of different types. Still, it's interesting to speculate on how the placement of the snap may affect the look of a cap.
I wonder when this was determined and executed during the construction of the cap.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Perspective and artistic license along with a barrel of salt. I dont think you can draw any conclusions based on a comparison of a painting and an actual piece.

But, if anything, my impression would be that the snap in the painting is approximately in the same place as the cap posted. This is the pertinent photograph.

It is possibly a case of comparing the look of a cap being worn and the look of a cap photographed as Marc's. All of my 1920s and 1930s caps look like Marc's when photographed in this way, but when worn they tug back from the snap as per the painting.

bk

 

[Sefton]

A bit of good and bad news for me today about my custom hat: I got a first look at it and it looks very close to vintage specs. Right shape and size. The bad news was that they forgot to put the snap and instead of a leather sweatband it has one made of the same material as the lining. They apologized and the mistakes will be corrected, but it will take at least 10 more days. This heavy wool cap isn't going to see much action by the time it's finally finsihed in early april, but since I work in San Francisco I may be able to wear it if we have one of our famously foggy and cold summers. waiting, waiting, waiting...

I just noticed that the ad with the painting says "...For sportswear, motoring, travel or nigligee..." Does anyone know what "nigligee" means? It sounds like Neglegee, but what does that have to do with a motoring cap? (I can think of a few things that can't be written about here though)

 

[Torpedo]

I would think it is "negligée" in the sense of "casual wear" - note they also put "sportswear" as a separate thing, I imagine at the time that had a more literal meaning than today.

 

[Lefty]

This is from an auction that just ended.

 

[Lefty]

one more from MissJoeri's scans of the 1938 Sears catalog

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Vintage 1920s/'30s caps are cheaper on eBay these days than previously,

but not by much: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320353350348



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[Feraud]

A bit of good and bad news for me today about my custom hat: I got a first look at it and it looks very close to vintage specs. Right shape and size. The bad news was that they forgot to put the snap and instead of a leather sweatband it has one made of the same material as the lining. They apologized and the mistakes will be corrected, but it will take at least 10 more days. This heavy wool cap isn't going to see much action by the time it's finally finsihed in early april, but since I work in San Francisco I may be able to wear it if we have one of our famously foggy and cold summers. waiting, waiting, waiting...

How goes the custom cap?

 

[Sefton]

I haven't had a call from my tailor yet and I've been plenty busy, but I'll call them next week to find out what the status of my cap is.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Bump.

 

[Warbaby]

I'm still looking for a cheap vintage newsboy that I can use for a pattern. Does anyone have one that's too ratty and beat up to wear that they'd be willing to part with for cheap, trade or free?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'm still looking for a cheap vintage newsboy that I can use for a pattern. Does anyone have one that's too ratty and beat up to wear that they'd be willing to part with for cheap, trade or free?

Ones in small sizes go for a song on eBay fairly frequently. (Less than $10.) They're often in good shape, too. I'll PM you the next time I spot a live auction for one.


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[Mike1973]

How'd I miss this thread?

Just had a quick flick through at work, will have a proper read tonight!

I bought a job lot of old Newsboy style caps of ebay a while ago, for about $60 if memory serves me correctly. I've posted them before but think they deserve to go in here. This one, the Wizard, was the nicest by far -

I'll add some measurements when I get home tonight. Also in the job lot were a couple of very lightweight work caps, with no liner and a card sweat band. Also a few of the caps made from recycled material.

 

[Mike1973]

This was indeed done in the 1930s. "Waverly Caps" (the J.C. Penney house brand) had labels on the sweatband that said:

50% rayon
50% reu. wool


"reu." stands for "reused". In other words, the wool came from clothing that had been cut up. The rayon content was in the lining.


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Not sure of the date of this cap, but an example of one made from reused material. Reminds me of a coat my Grannie used to have...