waistcoat questions

[billyspew]

Marc Chevalier posted a waistcoat with one additional buttonhole in between the usual line of holes. This was used for a watch chain.

All of my fathers 60s era Hector Powes have that feature - as I understand it from him it was a reasonably common feature in Bespoke suits.

 

[Ethan Bentley]

All of my fathers 60s era Hector Powes have that feature - as I understand it from him it was a reasonably common feature in Bespoke suits.

Ah, that is interesting.

 

[Lokar]

I tried on a three piece Gieves & Hawkes tweed in London a month ago or so, it had a vertical buttonhole for a watch chain.

 

[Edward]

I am a big fan of the bottom button undone, and always smile when I see a chap who is familiar with the practice. I once saw a French chap in Paris who adhered to the fashion, I thought was a nice touch.

Ah yes. I wonder, too, whether part of the reasoning behind its continuation in the modern era is that, for those to whom it matters, it shows off that the waistcoat is 'real' - not one of the backless type with the buttons being rivited in place, as I've seen before now (a wholly different beat to the White time waistcoat). Of course, even if this were so, with the weight of tradition behind it it avoids being so desperately gauche as (another of my pet hates) leaving the cuff buttons on a suit jacket undone, just to show they're "real".

It's my understanding that waistcoats worn with dinner jackets are cut straight across the bottom, rather than having points - these are supposed to be always worn with the bottom button done up, thereby creating a clean line across.

Or so I've read. Somewhere.

Double breasted waistcoats should always be fully done up, and yes, white tie waistcoats too. The military mess-styled wool waistcoats that are the equivalent of a white tie waistcoat (and which look rather sharp with black tie, IMO) don't look quite right unless full fastened also. Otherwise, I would still go with the bottom button undone for black tie.

Good question.
I was about to answer the watch would go on the longer one and the charm on the shorter. The idea being the charm is less used than the watch and the longer chain used in removing and viewing the watch.
However... (isn't there always one?) if your charm is an old school pencil, cigar cutter, lighter, penknife, etc. it would make sense to keep this on the longer one. I just don't know..lol

Makes sense to me! As it sits, that's what I've done..... watch on the long one, fob knife on the shorter.

I'd been inclined to agree with that. I know a chap who has a waistcoat that has a separate thin button hole slightly to the left of the main buttons. It's sole purpose to thread your chain through.

Yes, I too have a three piece suit in my wardrobe which has an additional, vetical buttonhole for a watch chain.

 

[Inusuit]

Not an issue on the vest I'm wearing today, a lined canvas Carhartt. It has a zipper. I leave the bottom button undone on others except a heavy wool Filson vest, which is buttoned all the way down for warmth.

When I wear a pocket watch, everything goes on the left side so the chain won't catch on my handgun should I choose to draw.

Oops, I see this in the "suits" thread, so probably off topic.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It's my understanding that waistcoats worn with dinner jackets are cut straight across the bottom, rather than having points ...

Nope.


'Straight across the bottom' is a very old style for single-breasted evening waistcoats: in the U.S., it began to go out of fashion in the 1890s, and then returned for a bit in the 1960s and '70s. Points --short and fat, or long and thin-- have been around on evening waistcoats (black or white) for a long time: from the 1890s at least.


In general, double-breasted evening waistcoats (black or white) are cut straight across the bottom ... but in the 1920s and '30s, some 'stylish' versions appeared with points. (See photos below.)

.

 

[Evan Everhart]

I've really become fond of the waistcoat recently, and I hope to find some that are good for the warmer temps for the summer.

Anyhow, I generally agree that there's no "right way" to button up (unless the design makes it clear), consider the length. Vests are becoming a popular item for young, trendy men, but thay tend to be shorter by design. I notice that they are worn fully buttoned. If I had the build to wear those shorter versions, I would do that. Normally, though, I leave the last unbuttoned.

As for the watch, I don't have a double chain, so I wear my watch on the left. The way it clip to the button hole, if I have to open my waistcoat it's a hassle if worn on the right. That may change when I find a better chain, though. [huh]

You can simply exchange the clip which you have described for any old silver or gold (as your chain may merit, whichever tone it is) T bar which should be easily acquired at any beading or jewelry notions store. There are also a number of pocket watch chain stores on the internet which will sell you a T bar and drop fob chain, or simply a T bar for a very reasonable price then you're only out your shipping and handling. I often make my own pocket watch chains, especially double Albert chains. Seriously though, you don't need to have a double Albert chain, you can simply have a single Albert as well, with just a T bar, fob drop chain, and your regular chain, or you can have a regular chain with no fob drop and just a T bar at the end which can be worn either not showing, or showing depending upon your personal preference with your pocket watch worn at the other end tucked into a convenient pocket.

Anyhow, I hope the advice is helpful. Good luck with your pocket watch chain sir!

 

[John in Covina]

Matt Deckard Apparel

 

[davestlouis]

Well done John, let's see the whole ensemble.

 

[Ethan Bentley]

...it it avoids being so desperately gauche as (another of my pet hates) leaving the cuff buttons on a suit jacket undone, just to show they're "real".

:eusa_clap oh how I agree!

 

[tnitz]

Late again...

Sorry, but I find this question intriguing, particularly as some have said that modern vests don't have functioning lower buttons.

I was born into a clothing family, father was in design/production, mother a home "tailoress". I was specifically taught (including by the clothiers who sold me suits in the NW Pacific US) to ALWAYS button the bottom button of the vest/waistcoat, and ALWAYS unbutton when sitting and REFASTEN when rising. I have memories of my Grandfather doing the same at the supper table, though we had different teachers.

I have no telling if what I was taught was local or universal, it's what I was taught, but seeing an unbuttoned lower button on a waistcoat today suggests laziness.

But I suspect it's more to do with cut, times, and culture.