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vintage vs. custom

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
+1
Also, vintage has far more options than custom. While Optimo has far more options for felt weight and finish than any other hatter (AFAIK), it's simply unfair to put Optimo against the list of options created by vintage hat companies - who often made the felt in-house, blended, colored, and finished that felt in-house, sometimes wove the ribbons themselves, embroidered their own liners, regularly designed new blocks, were the size of and populated like cities, and operated during a time when competition forced innovation.

On the custom side, most of the hats here come from one of two felters, and the Winchester felt doesn't seem to change very often. The ribbons are the only things changing on the 15 or so colors, the weight never changes, most of the blocks being chosen here are the same, etc. For all that bespoke choice, there are a lot of similar looking hats.
 
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Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
+1
Also, vintage has far more options than custom. While Optimo has far more options for felt weight and finish than any other hatter (AFAIK), it's simply unfair to put Optimo against the list of options created by vintage hat companies - who often made the felt in-house, blended, colored, and finished that felt in-house, sometimes wove the ribbons themselves, embroidered their own liners, regularly designed new blocks, were the size of and populated like cities, and operated during a time when competition forced innovation.

On the custom side, most of the hats here come from one of two felters, and the Winchester felt doesn't seem to change very often. The ribbons are the only things changing on the 15 or so colors, the weight never changes, most of the blocks being chosen here are the same, etc. For all that bespoke choice, there are a lot of similar looking hats.

I am in total agreement.
 
Messages
11,579
Location
Covina, Califonia 91722
One of the posters had made a point that is interesting- that when you get new / custom you can get it in an open crown. That does sort of highlight the idea that while there were so many different hats made in the past with details and colors and quality levels that we don't see as much today- the problem is finding what you want in vintage. We have a number of dedicated collectors of vintage and a greater number of those that look now and then that can post some fantastic finds but we don't see a lot of vintage hats that come in mint or unused condition. They turn up now and again but not as frequently -finds usually are something that is worn, well worn or in need of some definite fixing. Vintage tends to have a certain 'being lucky and finding what you want" versus the custom made to order so as an advantage, custom gets it with the cost as no issue parameter.
 
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scooter

Practically Family
Messages
905
Location
Arizona
This is very interesting and has opened new facets of my passion for hats, that I had never considered. Perhaps as some have said, the ultimate answer is to buy a custom when the situation permits, while always keeping an eye open for that pot of gold we sometimes encounter in the vintage market.
 

Ande1964

Practically Family
Messages
556
Location
Kansas
I have and love some custom hats. I respect those who continue the craft. I honestly feel, though, that NO ONE can make a modern hat as good as the top of the line vintage models.

Anj
 

fmw

One Too Many
Messages
1,017
Location
USA
Personally, I haven't encountered a vintage hat that was any better than a high quality modern one. Maybe I've been unlucky. But I've tried enough that I finally gave up. Hey, somebody has to uphold the minority position, huh?
 

Garrett

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,782
I have and love some custom hats. I respect those who continue the craft. I honestly feel, though, that NO ONE can make a modern hat as good as the top of the line vintage models.

Anj


Very true. "They don't make em' like they used to!" ;)
 

job

One Too Many
Messages
1,325
Location
Sanford N.C.
I have several new Akubra's and Tesi's and a Custom on order. I would only buy a vintage hat if I could see it personally. I would be afraid of getting a old worn out hat. I don't want to have a lot of hats that are similar. A few colors and styles that cover most clothing and occasions and then I will mostly be done. My next few hats will all be custom to round out my collection.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,104
Location
San Francisco, CA
Personally, I haven't encountered a vintage hat that was any better than a high quality modern one. Maybe I've been unlucky. But I've tried enough that I finally gave up. Hey, somebody has to uphold the minority position, huh?


Agreed. Don't get me wrong, as I said earlier, I have to 60's Resistols (a stingy and an OR clone) that I wouldn't trade for the world, but I don't see how they are vastly superior in quality to my customs.

That having been said, my vintage lids are not "top of the line," so perhaps I'm looking at the wrong vintage hats. But I am quite happy with the quality of my customs.
 

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
OK, I think I missed the point of the thread when I originally posted, but really, if money was no object, I'd prefer a vintage hat with a bit of history behind it, provided that it meets my criteria of perfect condition. Otherwise, it's hard to beat custom for that good of condition.
 

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
Can't imagine it would have much history in perfect condition [huh]

Hmm, maybe I'm just being unrealistic... I mean, my own vintage hat looked to be in very good condition, although there was a bit of noticeable signs of it's age and/or a bit of staining. What I mean is, if I see the hat on eBay, I'll have to like it to begin with. The pictures posted there of my hat made it look like it wasn't tarnished at all. It still looks good though, in person.

It does make me wonder how often the previous owner wore it, however... it was a homburg, a formal hat, not more casual like a fedora, although that's how I wear it now. Although I've definitely had a bit to do with it up to this point, now that it's beyond half of a year, the interior lining was a little bit yellow to begin with.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Ah, but that hat couldn't tell many tales; it was in a box in the dark.
No, he took it everywhere, he just never actually wore it.


KNC1759822APR1961.147234335_std.jpg
 
Messages
10,883
Location
Portage, Wis.
I pull a JFK at times. If I have someplace nice to be, where I want my hair to look its best, I carry the hat with me, but don't wear it until it's time to leave.
 

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