Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

[Guttersnipe]

A clarification about the calculation of fabric weight: I don't know what system was used in the past, but I believe the standard today is oz. per sq. yard or gram per sq. metre. (The ISO standard is "gsm", g/m^2) In older sources I see weights referred to in oz or gram per running metre (i.e. one yard of double width fabric.)

I believe the weight per running length was the standard method in the past. I've seen both running weight and weight per yard^2 or meter^2 used with modern fabric.

Another thing I've noticed is various sources cite conversion from grams to ounces different. For example, Holland & Sherry's "intercity" range, which I am a fan of for modern business suits I wear to work, is listed as 370 g or 12 oz, but elsewhere Ive seen 340 g listed as converting to 12 oz. Perhaps, this inconsistency relates to some cloth merchants using running length for standard measurement weight and the ISO standard for metric?

 

[herringbonekid]

a lot of UK sellers mean 18oz per metre when they say oz, thereby mixing up imperial and metric. i know Huddersfield Fine Worsteds do as i checked with them, while Isle of Mull use oz per yard giving what sounds like a lighter than it actually is weight... at least to someone like me who knows 18oz by the metre.

 

[Guttersnipe]

... Funny that. Who would've guessed that in a highly traditional, artisan centric industry, standardization would be elusive!?!?

Reminds me of when I was a pressman (operated printing presses) before going to school. Virtually every master pressman I met had their own unique way of doing things.

 

[Guttersnipe]

I wrote Fox Bros. to inquire about cream flannel. They sent me a swatch. They say it's in the 370 - 400g range. I would say it definitely is on the light side of that range. The color in this picture is fairly accurate, although I'd say it's a little softer with more yellow in-person. I might see if they have a heavier version.

 

[Rudie]

Lovely. What's the price?

 

[Qirrel]

Very nice. I am tempted to order something from fox to make a suit of, but something tells me that money is probably better spent buying furniture for my now rather bare apartment.
Flannel or furniture.....hmmm....

 

[Two Types]

Flannel or furniture?

This is a dangerous place to ask that question .... the answer is not going to be the logical one.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

flannel furniture!

 

[herringbonekid]

i'm still waiting to see what the London Lounge - Fox Flannel range is like (you can see the first four on the thread linked on page one of this thread).
apparently they are rolling off the looms as we speak, a little later than expected. Q, i would personally wait to see this new range before ordering.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Hey, thanks for the heads up HK. The LL Fox Bros. samples I've seen are VERY nice. If you could please post links as they become available it would be much appreciated, I'm sure.

The folks at Fox Bros. (who are extremely nice, btw) quoted me £46 per meter + VAT if applicable for quantities sufficient to make a pair of trousers. I'm not sure if the price goes down for larger quantities.

Regarding quality, it is quit nice. It's not as thick as other flannels I've seen, but it seems denser (if that makes sense). As such, I suspect it would be harder wearing than thicker, yet "fluffier" flannels.

 

[Rudie]

Thanks, Guttersnipe. Very tempting.

hbk, I assume the LL flannel will likely be in the £100/meter price range?

 

[herringbonekid]

hbk, I assume the LL flannel will likely be in the £100/meter price range?

i imagine so. i look forward to seeing if any of the designs are worth that amount.

 

[Tomasso]

flannel furniture!

I know of one gent who upholstered a couch in his study with charcoal grey chalk stripe flannel.......

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

On the Subject of more durable fabrics...

Maybe this is a bit... hectic, but has anyone considered a hi-tech fabric? I ask this because as of late I've seen a lot of "wrinkle resistant" or "stain resistant" fabrics in some suits at the mall... And I just wonder if they could work.

 

[herringbonekid]

some more from the London Lounge-Fox Brothers collaboration:

 

[Rudie]

Oh, they finally managed to recreate the cloth from the first Fellows drawing. Nice.

 

[herringbonekid]

well, near enough.
i think the second one is great and has a very brooding, stormy look; perfect for a severe British circa 1939 inspired suit.

the funny thing about the London Lounge is that they always dismiss vintage clothing as 'costume'; well it's a forum for men who buy bespoke so that's their right.
yet, they are constantly referring to 30s-40s imagery from Apparel Arts etc for inspiration (in how to wear clothing and also for fabrics as above) and their 'well dressed men' photograph section is nearly all 30s-40s.

 

[Tomasso]

the funny thing about the London Lounge is that they always dismiss vintage clothing as 'costume';....yet, they are constantly referring to 30s-40s imagery from Apparel Arts etc for inspiration (in how to wear clothing and also for fabrics as above) and their 'well dressed men' photograph section is nearly all 30s-40s.

I once posted a comment to this effect on the LL and it was met with a deafening silence.

 

[Fastuni]

Yesterday I hit a small gold vein at a Munich charity bazar organized by local tailors... they sold fabrics they don't need for aprox. 3 USD per meter.

The vast majority of suitings was unsurprisingly lightweight, dark fabrics at most 20-30 years old.
However there was also some older stuff.
I grabbed together everything that appeared to be original 1930-40s or at least appropriate, heavy and just "right" in grip and feel.

4 meters of red & black striped blue fabric for a three-piece suit:

2.5 meters of teal & brown fabric for at least a pair of trousers (maybe enough for a 2 piece suit):

5 meters of grey gabardine - enough for a three-piece sports suit:

1.6 meters of brown-grey heavy Gabardine (left side with a flannel surface) - enough for a pair of trousers:

1.7 meters of cream flannell with navy "sprinkles", perfect for flannel slacks (possibly "Oxford bags"):

Piles of vintage lining material:

A bunch of typically German bowl-shaped buttons for suits and coats:

Some thread and special cord for buttonholes:

That's some great charity work the Munich tailors are doing. :eusa_clap

Some older finds of vintage fabric, which at due time will be put to good use:

Light-brown & rust check fabric: 2.75 meters
Grey medium-weight fabric with blue pinstripes: 5.5 meters
Dark brown Pinstripe: 3 meters

Cheers

 

[Rudie]

Man, you hit a goldmine there! I'm green with envy.