Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[Yamahana]

I was looking into this interesting halfbelt design with the side adjusters morphing into the halfbelt. It seems to be a feature typical for 'Alaskan' jackets.

View attachment 645506 View attachment 645501 View attachment 645502 View attachment 645503 View attachment 645504 View attachment 645505

Then I noticed the same feature on this Westerner which was probably made by the same manufacturer.

View attachment 645497 View attachment 645498 View attachment 645499

Keen eye for the details as usual there Jacket Slayer! Those pockets look vaguely familiar too.

 

[Marc mndt]

Keen eye for the details as usual there Jacket Slayer! Those pockets look vaguely familiar too.
View attachment 645870

There's another maker who used this particular pocket design. I haven't found one with a label yet but I think these were all made by the same company (a different company than the one who made Alaskan labeled jackets).

 

[tmitchell59]

View attachment 642427
View attachment 642428
View attachment 642429

Incredible! LA Sportogs is making a name for itself again.

 

[Yamahana]

There's another maker who used this particular pocket design. I haven't found one with a label yet but I think these were all made by the same company (a different company than the one who made Alaskan labeled jackets).

View attachment 645871 View attachment 645872 View attachment 645873 View attachment 645874 View attachment 645875 View attachment 645876 View attachment 645877 View attachment 645878 View attachment 645879 View attachment 645880

This jacket on the Bill Kelso archive page was the one that I was using on my jacket design. It was the only one I had seen at the time till you posted these others.

 

[jeo]

View attachment 645501 View attachment 645502 View attachment 645503 View attachment 645504 View attachment 645505

These two jackets above are made by Spiewak (Golden Fleece) Here’s the catalog page from 1940-41 showing this exact jacket.

The two tone jacket is mine. Should be getting it this weekend. Here are some better pics after conditioning.

Then I noticed the same feature on this Westerner which was probably made by the same manufacturer.


View attachment 645497 View attachment 645498 View attachment 645499

I doubt this Westerner was made by Spiewak, they look nothing alike to the other jackets and a lot of makers use that half belt construction technique as well as the same buckle (which was very common back in the day)

There's another maker who used this particular pocket design. I haven't found one with a label yet but I think these were all made by the same company (a different company than the one who made Alaskan labeled jackets).

View attachment 645871 View attachment 645872 View attachment 645873 View attachment 645874 View attachment 645875 View attachment 645876 View attachment 645877 View attachment 645878 View attachment 645879 View attachment 645880

Except for the first one, these all look Canadian to me.

 

[Marc mndt]

These two jackets above are made by Spiewak (Golden Fleece) Here’s the catalog page from 1940-41 showing this exact jacket.

I don't think so. Imo only this brown one is a Spiewak. Note the cuffs, straight line in the advertisement, straight line on the brown one, yours and all the others have a curved cuff.

Straight on the Spiewak

Curved on yours and the Alaskans and the Westerner

Also note the angle of the placket curve, sharp on the spiewak in the advertisement and on the brown jacket.

The chest pockets are angled.

Spiewak

The angle of the curve on your jacket isn't as sharp. The chest pocket is horizontal.

Spiewak vs your jacket

I think your jacket was made by the same manufacturer who also made the Alaskans, the Westerner and the Minnesota Woolen.

Only the solid brown one is a Spiewak.

I doubt this Westerner was made by Spiewak,

I doubt it too.

as well as the same buckle (which was very common back in the day)

Can you show me one?

Except for the first one, these all look Canadian to me.

What makes you say so? I see American Talon zippers.

 

[Jasonissm]

I recognised a similar pocket design from this wool and leather combination jacket as worn by Johnny Depp, same maker? Second one has straight pockets.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I recognised a similar pocket design from this wool and leather combination jacket as worn by Johnny Depp, same maker? Second one has straight pockets.

View attachment 645917

View attachment 645918

It's certainly possible. My wool and leather jacket is from Spiewak/Golden Fleece with a Golden Fleece label and is extremelysimilar in colors to his jacket. Thats not daying much and I know other makers made jackets like Johnny's brown and blue jacket, but it certainly could be a Spiewak. This is all hypothetical though.

 

[jeo]

I don't think so. Imo only this brown one is a Spiewak. Note the cuffs, straight line in the advertisement, straight line on the brown one, yours and all the others have a curved cuff.

Straight on the Spiewak
View attachment 645912

Curved on yours and the Alaskans and the Westerner
View attachment 645911

Also note the angle of the placket curve, sharp on the spiewak in the advertisement and on the brown jacket.

The chest pockets are angled.

Spiewak
View attachment 645915

If you’re comparing exact details from the drawing to the jackets then the brown one isn’t Spiewak either as the chest pocket angles don’t match at all. You can clearly see that in your comparison.

The angle of the curve on your jacket isn't as sharp. The chest pocket is horizontal.


Spiewak vs your jacket
View attachment 645913

The angle of the two tone is actually closer to the drawing than the brown one…

But I see your argument here. Good job on comparing all the details. You missed an important detail that I just noticed that now has me thinking. Both examples of the Golden Fleece and the drawing have a shoulder panel.

I do think that the first Alaskan you showed and my two tone are made by the same manufacturer.

The Minnesota Woolen labeled jacket (with the same unique chest pocket stitching) threw a wrench into it all. I would have been comfortable saying Minnesota Woolen Co. made the Alaskan and my two tone but since the back design is completely different, the angle and curves of the hand warmer pocket are different and actually closer the Spiewak, and while it has the same buckle, it doesn’t have that feature where the buckle “morphs” onto the halfbelt, it’s hard for me to say that definitively.

Can you show me one?

What makes you say so? I see American Talon zippers.

The design. But I would have said that about the Minnesota Woolen labeled jacket too. Btw, the zipper was replaced on that first Alaskan.

 

[jeo]

Weirdly appropriate that a buddy of mine just bought this jacket. Another variation on the theme.

 

[Marc mndt]

You missed an important detail that I just noticed that now has me thinking. Both examples of the Golden Fleece and the drawing have a shoulder panel.

Sharp eye, I did miss that but once you see it it's obvious.

The Minnesota Woolen labeled jacket (with the same unique chest pocket stitching) threw a wrench into it all. I would have been comfortable saying Minnesota Woolen Co. made the Alaskan

I've looked into the company, I couldn't find anything leather related, zero. Maybe they just supplied the fabric for the lining. Similar to Aero and Lochcarron.

Looks like another variation on the Alaskan / Westerner jackets to me lol. What does the front look like?

I found another jacket with this buckle, the Alaskan Grizzly lol.

 

[jeo]

Sharp eye, I did miss that but once you see it it's obvious.

I've looked into the company, I couldn't find anything leather related, zero. Maybe they just supplied the fabric for the lining. Similar to Aero and Lochcarron.

My guess is vertical integration, much like Seattle Woolen.

Their main label was Weather Wise and they did a lot of leather jackets so definitely not just supplying linings.

I believe Minnesota Woolen turned into United Garment Mfg Co.

United Garment Mfg Co. (Lake o Woods)

Heres another use of that label. Aero Wear looks to be a label just like Lake o Woods and was probably made by United Garments.

Looks like another variation on the Alaskan / Westerner jackets to me lol. What does the front look like?

No picture of the front unfortunately.

 

[jeo]

Looks like another variation on the Alaskan / Westerner jackets to me lol. What does the front look like?

Here’s the IG post where I found that image. No other pics.

Sake Thaivintage on Instagram

76 likes, 0 comments - sakethaivintage on June 16, 2015

www.instagram.com

But I think I found more images of the same jacket on that page. Same exact details as on the Alaskans and the Westerner.

Sake Thaivintage on Instagram: "40’s Horsehide Leather With Ball Chan"

375 likes, 3 comments - sakethaivintage on December 29, 2020: "40’s Horsehide Leather With Ball Chan".

www.instagram.com

I also remembered seeing this one at Inspiration. Again, same details.