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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

semolina_pilchard

A-List Customer
Messages
398
Location
Europe
40s All Weather cossack. The horsehide is top quality on this one :cool:

IMG_9222.jpeg

IMG_9224.jpeg

IMG_9223.jpeg
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
Yeah the inside/label are more worn, but it has clearly been well looked after.

Do you have a theory on who made the jackets for AW @tmitchell59 ? I saw a few posts suggesting that AW was a brand in the SF area, rather than a maker.

Good question. I have researched All Weather, but found nothing beyond the label. They were labeled San Francisco. I've owned one or two and pics of others. Leather Garment Co. Is listed on "some" labels, not sure if is on your jacket. That makes me think a maker. Just can't confirm at this point.

I do know they made a variety of styles, very worked oriented. No nonsense heavy horsehide jackets.

Others here own All Weathers. I will post some more when home.

Your new jacket reminds me Of a Ralphs-Pugh I own. Simple lines with a nice piping touch on the front.

Picture the zipper pull and stop. Probably late 40s early 50s
 
Messages
17,509
Location
Chicago
Version 2 of what is IMO probably the pinnacle of Sears design and hide. CSW made as has been discussed. This jacket is different than my first with regard to a few small details, one being the chest pocket bag, the first was synthetic/nylon, this one is flannel. I was also surprised by the tag size. This is a massive 42”. Fits much more like a 44”. My other jacket had the same paper tag (not attached) and read the same number but there is a clear difference in the fit. This jacket is easily an inch bigger in every direction. The wool backed nylon quilt is insanely thick. This is a winter jacket.
Post Obernaufs and Urad and it absolutely glows.
IMG_9376.jpeg
IMG_9377.jpeg
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Fit on first jacket:
IMG_6331.jpeg
IMG_6326.jpeg

Second version:
IMG_9390.jpeg
IMG_9388.jpeg

The sleeve and back length are my ideal. The extra 1” in the shoulders and chest really make a remarkable difference in wearability.
This is the high water mark for me with regard to vintage fits. It’s on point with my custom spec and fits exactly like my @regius built Windward repro (a nod to his abilities in understanding vintage patterns).
 

Nacho

Practically Family
Messages
598
Personally, I believe a great fitting jacket always starts at the shoulders. The second one really brings out the shoulders on ya, Ton. Not that the first one doesn’t. But more prominent in the second jacket, giving you a flattering V-taper look.

It’s minty conditions as well. Great score man!

Version 2 of what is IMO probably the pinnacle of Sears design and hide. CSW made as has been discussed. This jacket is different than my first with regard to a few small details, one being the chest pocket bag, the first was synthetic/nylon, this one is flannel. I was also surprised by the tag size. This is a massive 42”. Fits much more like a 44”. My other jacket had the same paper tag (not attached) and read the same number but there is a clear difference in the fit. This jacket is easily an inch bigger in every direction. The wool backed nylon quilt is insanely thick. This is a winter jacket.
Post Obernaufs and Urad and it absolutely glows.
View attachment 539343 View attachment 539344 View attachment 539345 View attachment 539346 View attachment 539347
Fit on first jacket:
View attachment 539348 View attachment 539349
Second version:
View attachment 539352 View attachment 539350
The sleeve and back length are my ideal. The extra 1” in the shoulders and chest really make a remarkable difference in wearability.
This is the high water mark for me with regard to vintage fits. It’s on point with my custom spec and fits exactly like my @regius built Windward repro (a nod to his abilities in understanding vintage patterns).
 
Last edited:

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois

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