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Vintage Milan or Optimo Milan
- Thread starter Keensteen
- Start date
- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Are you referring to "Optimo:" as a brand, as in the hat shop in "Chicago ?
Yes, saw an article…that Optimo Hats went to China…found the original suppliers of the wheat that Italy used. Then worked with the village, improving the wheat, breeding for better straw (not wheat), and I believe even growing organically. My link to article no longer works, and Optimo doesn’t seem to have it.
I’m new to fine hats, even more to Milan straw. I love Handwoven Fine Panamas from Ecuador, thought a classical Milan would be nice Handwoven addition. But so far those I’ve seen seem machine made…even older ones on ebay. Not handwoven like the classic Panama. Feels like I’m chasing after a phantom hat !
I’m new to fine hats, even more to Milan straw. I love Handwoven Fine Panamas from Ecuador, thought a classical Milan would be nice Handwoven addition. But so far those I’ve seen seem machine made…even older ones on ebay. Not handwoven like the classic Panama. Feels like I’m chasing after a phantom hat !
- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
All Milan hats are machine made. Rather than being woven the Milan straw is sewn, layer upon layer. Art Fawcett from VS Custom was one of the few custom hat makers making them in the traditional way. It is fascinating to watch a hatter sew the layers then form the hat. There is also a "Milan" hat made by numerous major hat makers that is called Milan but does not use the actual Milan straw....they use a coated paper material. I have a few of both and they are good hats....certainly not as refined as a top quality Panama but they do serve a niche.
- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Your size could pose problems in finding one. I picked up a nice vintage true Milan straw on Ebay for under $200. With patience you might find one.
- Messages
- 18,978
- Location
- Central California
The hat world is full of these confusing terms. Milan can refer to the actual straw or to the way the material is sewn. There are lots of hemp Milan hats and there are plastics too. I personally like the hemp, but it’s rare to find them as finely made as the genuine Milan hats.
Optimo of Chicago makes a great hat, but they don’t come cheap. Art Fawcett of Vintage Silhouettes (VS) also made a nice Milan, but he retired. I have a VS Handicapper Milan that I really like, and I also hate another VS Milan in a more traditional fedora style.
I know Rick at The Phoenix Hat Co. @humanshoes was working on making Milan hats using old original machines, but I’ve never seen one offered for sale. Peter Bros. In Texas offers a bargain priced hemp Milan as does Stetson. I personally have not liked the plasticity Florentine Milan hats offered by Dobbs and maybe others.
I have a nice (not as nice as Optimo) VS Milan hat in 7 5/8 that I’d consider letting go if the price was right. I also might have a vintage Bee Hats Milan I’d could sell, but it’s a smaller proportioned hat. Send me a PM if you’re interested.
- Messages
- 18,978
- Location
- Central California
Have you looked through this thread?
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/milan-mania.30949/page-36
- Messages
- 20,004
- Location
- Funkytown, USA
We haven't gotten a quality report on them in a while, but Peters Bros makes a hemp milan. I'm very happy with the two I have. I'd still give them a shot.
- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
I am at the top of the queue if Rick gets into production with his Milan hats. Have yet to get an update on how close he is to start up. I am sorry I hesitated in ordering one from VS and missed the boat.
- Messages
- 18,978
- Location
- Central California
You might be near the top of Rick’s queue for a Milan, but there might be some competition for the first one.
As I recall, the person he was training for the Milan hats wasn’t as dedicated a perfectionist as Rick and it didn’t work out.Featured products
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- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Oh ****, I didn't hear that part.You might be near the top of Rick’s queue for a Milan, but there might be some competition for the first one.
- Messages
- 18,978
- Location
- Central California
The apprentice didn’t work out, but I still have hope that the Milan hats might be available at some point.
Judgmentalist
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 475
@belfastboy
@Bill Hughes
Or anybody else that is interested…
What do you think of the Milan weave that Northwest is producing in-house? How does it compare to whatever is considered “the best” vintage or old-school?
There is an Optimo Chicago Milan on eBay right now. How does this weave rate?
Minus the obvious damage, of course. It also looks like there may be a couple of other creases in this hat where it wasn’t well-cared for - is that how minor damage to this material presents?
https://ebay.io/m/BuCHKN
@Bill Hughes
Or anybody else that is interested…
What do you think of the Milan weave that Northwest is producing in-house? How does it compare to whatever is considered “the best” vintage or old-school?
There is an Optimo Chicago Milan on eBay right now. How does this weave rate?
Minus the obvious damage, of course. It also looks like there may be a couple of other creases in this hat where it wasn’t well-cared for - is that how minor damage to this material presents?
https://ebay.io/m/BuCHKN
- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Milan or the Leghorn hats are not weaves like a Panama. Milan hats are braided wheat straw (that used to originate in Milan) that is sewn together by a specialty sewing machine. The differences not seem to be in the quality of the wheat straw. Italy is no longer a source and the bulk of it seems to come from China. I have a collection of vintage and modern. The braid in the vintage seems to be more refined while the contemporary is thicker and coarser. I am thinking of buying one from NWest Hats but have not gotten around to it. BUT, if is is made by Mike @NWHats you can be assured it will be a quality product. The finest one I have is an older vintage Leghorn. Overall the wheat straw is more robust than the Panama toquilla straw.
- Messages
- 11,290
- Location
- vancouver, canada
With the damage I would not touch this hat at any price. And at $2000 I would run away. Buy one from NWHats, save some money and still get a great hat......with no damage. The seller reveals his ignorance by calling this a Panama hat.
Judgmentalist
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 475
No, I would never buy this one. Just trying to learn what I can from it.
thanks Robert
konadog
Practically Family
- Messages
- 780
- Location
- los angeles
I own an Optimo Chicago Milan hat. It is of incredible quality - far better than any other Milan hats I have handled. I can't speak to the damage on that hat from the eBay photo, but I can speak to the quality of Optimo Chicago hats (I own five) - they are among the very best.
Judgmentalist
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 475
I would love to see pictures, of the Milan or the others.
The only modern felt hats I have so far have been Optimos, 1 VS Art Fawcet and one of the current Art Fawcets that go up on eBay from time to time. I have a couple others on the way eventually. So far, I am impressed with the quality of felt on the Optimos.
