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Vintage Herm's Leathertogs- Epaulets on a Cafe Racer?

technovox

One Too Many
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1,242
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San Francisco
I don’t know why, but I’ve been trying to find a classic Herm’s Leathertogs Café Racer for a few years now. Just one of those obsessive things us collectors do- the totally impractical “I want that rare one” syndrome. So just a few months ago, a Herm’s Leathertogs in beautiful original condition dropped into my lap.
Now I know the notion of epaulets on a Café Racer might seem counterintuitive and rather like a “Franken” addition to the hallowed minimalist design of a classic café racer jacket, but how about a historical precedent… of sorts. None other than the iconic lead singer of the Doors, Jim Morrison, rocked a café collar with epaulets on a custom leather jacket way back in the sixties. (On youtube, check out the leather jacket that Morrison is wearing while performing “Light My Fire” on the Ed Sullivan show- 1967.) This isn’t the same jacket obviously, but if epaulets are cool enough for the bad boy poet of rock legacy, then they’re good enough for me. (Yep. The secret’s out. I base all my fashion decisions on the singular principle of “WWJMW” or “What Would Jim Morrison Wear?” )
But mostly I love the plain “Buco” like back on this Herm’s, the red lining, two chest pockets, the Herm’s label graphics, the side buckles, and classic Conmar zips. Little details like that really set this Herm’s apart, and make it a bit rarer than most of the typical café racers out there. So here are the pics. I just hope the Japanese don’t start knocking them off.
Hmmm…and now I’m thinking that maybe “vintage leather jackets worn by rock stars” would make an interesting thread…


HermsMain.jpg

HermsBack.jpg

HermsBuckle.jpg

HermsLabel.jpg

HermsSleeve.jpg
 
Messages
16,851
Though I'd take The Doors any day over the Pistols - and while I actually prefer Jim's sense of Fashion over Sid's - for reasons unknown to me, I base my fashion decisions on WWSVW. That said, this is a beautiful jacket. Side adjusters are also a rare sight on a CR, not to mention the tiny waist band above. Great idea for a form fitting jacket.

I just hope the Japanese don’t start knocking them off.

...I think it may be too late for that. I've already seen a very similar CR on either Yahoo dot jp or Rakuten not long ago. It may not have been the exact same model of Leathertogs, but I recall wondering what's with the epaulets on a CR. Then again, it could've been an original, not a repro? :D
 

pawineguy

One Too Many
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1,974
Location
Bucks County, PA
I have to admit that I get excited every time I see you starting a new thread, knowing it's going to be something different and special. This one is very interesting to me as it was made in my old college town. I like it because the simple epaulets (no stars, etc...) just add a little bit extra without it detracting from the simple style, and that grain and patina is amazing! Another incredible find.

Any idea on the history of the company? When did they stop operating? Easton is going through a bit of a revival as of late, but historically it was a pretty rough blue collar town, known for the college, Larry Holmes and Crayola.
 

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,242
Location
San Francisco
I have to admit that I get excited every time I see you starting a new thread, knowing it's going to be something different and special....

Any idea on the history of the company? When did they stop operating? Easton is going through a bit of a revival as of late, but historically it was a pretty rough blue collar town, known for the college, Larry Holmes and Crayola.

Thanks. Just trying to give something back to that wealth of knowledge I've gotten from this site...

Sadly, I really don't know much about history of the jacket...maybe Dinerman or someone with a little more historical perspective can shed some light. I'd love to know more.
 
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pawineguy

One Too Many
Messages
1,974
Location
Bucks County, PA
Thanks. Just trying to give something back to that wealth of knowledge I've gotten from this site...

Sadly, I really don't know much about history of the jacket...maybe Dinerman or someone with a little more historical perspective can shed some light. I'd love to know more.

All I can find is that he owned an Indian Motorcycle dealership, then opened Herm's Leathertogs, then moved to Florida.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
Great jacket. Break On Through (To The Other Hide)...

:lol:

The only thing I've seen with epaulettes and a mandarin collar before was an eighties 'Members Only' jacket in nylon.... This looks great, though. It is unusual and it does, on paper, go against the usual appeal of the cafe racer style, utilitarian simplicity. But it really works.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
Nice! Personally not a fan of having both side adjusters and elastics, but the Epaulets really work with the jacket...
If it's good enough for Jim, it's good enough for you!
 

IXL

One Too Many
Messages
1,284
Location
Oklahoma
......
The only thing I've seen with epaulettes and a mandarin collar before was an eighties 'Members Only' jacket in nylon.....

I have that jacket, in black! Two of my best friends worked in the men's-wear dept. of a large department store while attending college in the early 80s, and they bought it for me as a gift. There was this one young lady who was also working her way through college by staffing the women's better-wear department of the same store, and she chipped-in with them on my jacket, just being nice. The young lady and I just celebrated 30 years of marriage this past June.
 

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,242
Location
San Francisco
I have that jacket, in black! Two of my best friends worked in the men's-wear dept. of a large department store while attending college in the early 80s, and they bought it for me as a gift. There was this one young lady who was also working her way through college by staffing the women's better-wear department of the same store, and she chipped-in with them on my jacket, just being nice. The young lady and I just celebrated 30 years of marriage this past June.

That's such a great story! I'm assuming you wear the jacket every anniversary?
 

Biff42

A-List Customer
Messages
440
Herm's 1980 catalog.
 

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Biff42

A-List Customer
Messages
440
Herm's 1980 catalog continued
 

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