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Vintage clothing: waist to chest ratio problems?

MaryMary

One of the Regulars
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122
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Toronto
Ok, so I was wondering if anyone else has this issue with buying vintage dresses: I have been hesitant to purchase anything actually vintage because I notice that all the measurements are usually in the 40's for chest and 20's or 30's for waist.

I am a small chested girl who could do 36' max, and I have probably a 28-30 waist, depending on the outfit. (I am an apple shape...)

Anyone else with similar measurements run into the issues when buying vintage or is everyone else lucky to have the ample chest AND tiny waist package??? Frankly it is a bit depressing... ;)

I was thinking maybe it was the bras...the bullet bra might have taken up some room up there...lol... do people wear authentic undergarments with their clothing?

Mary
 

Laura Chase

One Too Many
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Copenhagen, Denmark
You will probably often have to take in the chest in a tiny bit (or have a tailor do it for you), as I have seen many many dresses with a 36' chest, but often the waist on those is 26'-28' or something like that. Chest-waist ratio is often 8'-10' and the hip-waist ratio 10'.

I'm not sure, but I have a sense that if you look for 30's clothing you will be more able to find something for a smaller chest than if you look for 50's. Many 30's dresses I have seen have a 8' chest-waist ratio.
 

Paisley

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5,439
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Indianapolis
Mary Mary, I don't have an hourglass figure, either. I pretty much stick to vintage-inspired clothes. If you get a jacket that's big enough in the waist, it might not fit your shoulders.
 

Miss_Bella_Hell

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Los Angeles, CA
Get a measuring tape. You need to know your exact measurements. 36-28 isn't unheard of, really (34-36 is a very common bust size) - and yes, lots of us wear waist cinchers and foundation garments that help squish us into shape!
 

get_atomized

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166
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US
MaryMary, sounds like you and I are about the same size and shape! And we live in the same town too! Uh oh, competition!

(lol just kidding I don't have any money to buy vintage clothing at the moment, you are safe)
 

Lady Day

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MaryMary said:
I am a small chested girl who could do 36' max, and I have probably a 28-30 waist, depending on the outfit. (I am an apple shape...)

As the other gals have said, a lot of the garments were meant to be worn with underpinnings. Ever seen patterns from the early 1900s? I have one listing a 40" bust with a 24" waist. WHAT!? lol

You will be fine. Get a nice girdle :)

LD
 

MaryMary

One of the Regulars
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122
Location
Toronto
such good info!

Thanks ladies,

Lady Day: omg, your post made me laugh...gotta love those measurements eh? That is like Barbie measurements! Wow! I would have to remove a kidney to get that shape... lol

Get atomized: Yayyy someone from Toronto!!! Excellent! I have been dying to meet someone near me actually! And don't worry, I won't buy up all the good clothes ;)

Okay, I am going to see about getting myself some good undergarments! Thanks for the tips!

Mary
 

December

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297
Location
Hampshire, England.
I'm lucky to have a 10" difference between my chest/ hip and waist difference.

Although this is great for vintage clothing, it's not without it's flaws- trying to find high street basics that fit well is almost impossible!!
 

KittyT

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Boston, MA
I currently have a 35" bust and a 28" waist. There are no problems finding vintage items.

A good girdle/waist cincher and a nice padded bra are really where you want to start.
 

Brooksie

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Portland, Oregon
I to have a challenge finding things to fit my bust - I am 31 1/2-26-33 most vintage I get I either have to alter in the bust or sit up very straight and wear lots of padding. My other issue is everything has to be taken up in the length because I am only 5 foot 2. Luckily I have found a place with a gal that is great with alterations plus she understands the vintage look and designs.

Brooksie
 

KittyT

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Brooksie said:
I to have a challenge finding things to fit my bust - I am 31 1/2-26-33 most vintage I get I either have to alter in the bust or sit up very straight and wear lots of padding. My other issue is everything has to be taken up in the length because I am only 5 foot 2. Luckily I have found a place with a gal that is great with alterations plus she understands the vintage look and designs.

Brooksie, you've also chosen to focus on a decade that works better with your natural shape. There's something to be said for working with what god gave you!
 

VintageBaubles

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South-Central PA
Although women's figures have evolved (or devolved, depending on how you look at it!) such that we're shaped a bit differently now than a few decades ago, vintage women used all sorts of undergarments to enhance their figures and fit into those vintage clothes, as has been pointed out. A 36" bust with a 28" waist should be fine for a lot of vintage. (Most of my stock is in that size range....) The proper bra, along with a waist cincher or girdle, will do amazing things. I've noticed that, finally, lingerie makers are making lots of body shapers and holder-inners, so even if one can't find vintage ones, there's now a much wider choice in modern ones.

Not all women came naturally to that hourglass shape back in the 50s. Damn that Dior for deciding to show off women's waists! Too bad I've lost mine and can't seem to find it again.
 

Laura Chase

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KittyT said:
Brooksie, you've also chosen to focus on a decade that works better with your natural shape. There's something to be said for working with what god gave you!

I definitely agree! So I'm thinking that MaryMary might have more luck finding 30's (or 20's for that sake) rather than 50's clothing.
 

Lauren

Distinguished Service Award
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Sunny California
I agree... I have my waist to bust measurement isn't large (6 inch difference), so I guess it's average, but the 30s work well for me because the tops weren't meant to be worn that form fitting for daywear anyways...
I think that's a huge misconception we've got about fit. The bust wasn't always supposed to fit tightly, or even snuggly. Until I figured that out I was constantly disappointed when searching for vintage. A little extra ease on top, depending on fit, is ok.
Still can't do 50s that often if it's supposed to be form fitting unless it's got a more modern shape to it. Those double dart things are bad news for me... So it's wear super padded mega bra and smoosh in the waist, and then I ALMOST look like it should, but I feel like a clown. lol
Don't worry- not everyone was hourglass. Like others have said, a combination of undergarments and correct ease evens things out a lot of time.
 

Brooksie

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Portland, Oregon
KittyT said:
Brooksie, you've also chosen to focus on a decade that works better with your natural shape. There's something to be said for working with what god gave you!

Yes, the Art Deco period is my favorite for everything, fashion, furniture, and esthetics. The clothes do look the best on me but I somehow seem to aquire so many 40's clothing items and those I end up having to alter.

Brooksie
 

MaryMary

One of the Regulars
Messages
122
Location
Toronto
Thanks ladies...I think I need to start trying on more outfits to get a better idea. I never thought of the 30's style as something that would be flattering on me...I always pictured the style suiting more of the tall, slim willowy type. I have a bit of a tummy to cope with...:eek:
 

Lady Day

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Lauren said:
I think that's a huge misconception we've got about fit. The bust wasn't always supposed to fit tightly, or even snuggly.

I think this needs to be the hallmark of 'how to look for vintage clothes'.
Drape and ease are so important to getting a look right. Most gals I know think, "Oh! Its been measured in my bust size, I can fit it!" NO!

40s dresses are rarely skin tight. 30s are all about drape, baby!
We have been so skewed with lycra in fabric and modern ascetic.
My rant for the day.

LD
 

nostalgic

New in Town
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42
Location
United States
Lady Day, that made me giggle!
Ok, probably a reeaaally stupid question: but when we're talking about bust measurements it's not just the band size, but around the widest part right?
 

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