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Vanson "Ike" in "Octagon" Leather...

Worf

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,207
Location
Troy, New York, USA
As some of you may recall, I bought a jacket at the Vanson Factory in Fall River Mass. back in late June. The jacket called an "Ike" was made of a tan cowhide leather that I'd never seen or heard of before. Due to numerous questions about it I wrote Contantine at Vanson and he kindly responded:

"Thanks for sending me the link to the thread, I can see that there have been some questions about the leather of your Jacket and that is a very interesting subject.

''Octagon'' cowhide Is what we call the leather color and type that your jacket is made out of. As I mentioned on Friday It is very rare because it is simply not produced anymore. After your Ike left the showroom we only have 2-3 jackets made out of Octagon left.

We work with certain tanneries and we produce leather under our own specifications. The tannery that was making Octagon for us unfortunately went out of business like many other tanneries in the area. That happened during the leather crisis of 2008-2011 that slowed down production because of the lack of raw material or remaining tannery capability/availability to recreate certain techniques.

To get a bit more technical, Octagon is part of a series of leathers that we call 1920's style leathers. The reason is that the hides are selected, waxed and finished by hand. The whole process does not rely on heavy chemical finishes like most leather nowadays. The color of your jacket is developed from the combination of waxes and oils and it is not a paint-job. So essentially the '20s family of leathers is selected, waxed and finished following the same procedures used back in the day!"


I indeed loved the jacket but I'd lost so much weight that the Size 54 was swimming on me, particularly in the upper arms, biceps and wrist area. Sooooo I sent it back to Vansons to get it trimmed. After a month and a half of anxious waiting I got her back on Monday. Here's my review and pics.

IMG_1172_zps835c34ba.jpg

Front Open

IMG_1173_zpsce8ebd9e.jpg

Front Closed

IMG_1169_zpscbf412b7.jpg

Back

IMG_1168_zpse2bc629c.jpg

Side

IMG_1179_zps90ad683f.jpg

Pocket Detail

IMG_1180_zps7f2b317e.jpg

Grain

To say this jacket is beautiful would be an understatement of the highest order. I wonder how it will "break-in" and what additional character the hide will take on, but time will reveal all. I can't heap enough praise on the Vanson folks they cut this jacket so skillfully you'd think it was made for me from the start. They actually took enough leather from the jacket that I might be able to get a pair of gloves made from it... serious. I hope that Vanson succeeds in scoring significant quantities of this "hand tanned" leather so that it can be offered in other colors and styles.

Worf
 

53Effie

A-List Customer
Messages
420
Location
Orygun
Beautiful jacket Worf. I have an Ike in black competition weight cowhide...acutally wore it to work today. A little different than yours as it is a model based I think on the pattern of the Ike that Vanson supplied to Orvis several years ago. Mine has zip sleeves and is a shade longer in the body than the pattern yours is from. Still though a good comfortable jacket with lotsa pockets. I really prefer the style of your jacket and I thought that was what I was getting when I bought mine. Mine is okay though and gets a good bit of use. Thanks for sharing the pics. It looks great.
 

B-24J

One of the Regulars
Messages
295
Location
Pennsylvania,USA
Great jacket Worf! The fit looks like you went to Vanson and had it tailored. They must have disassembled the jacket and re-cut where required - very impressive.

John
 

simonc

Practically Family
Messages
918
Location
United Kingdom
That looks very good on your Worf, and to quote Sloane, when did the police come and move you along and ask where you "found" the jacket?
 

winterland1

Practically Family
Messages
535
Location
minneapolis
Wow that looks great. May we ask what they charged for the customization? Good to know there are options for getting jackets adjusted.
 

Worf

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,207
Location
Troy, New York, USA
Thanks for the love guys. I got the jacket at the factory on sale for $540 or so. I sent it back and it cost me $215 to get it adjusted, plus about $50 for shipping both ways. So in the end it cost me about 8 Large. Which is STILL less than I'd pay for an Aero, Alexander, BK, ELC or GoodWear. I was like a mother hen waiting for the mods to get done though. I'm sure they took the entire jacket apart and redid her almost from scratch. I asked for and they sent the scraps, I wanted to make some leather pulls, however there's so much in the box I'm going to take them to a local leather company and see if I can get some gloves made out of it. Seriously!

Worf
 

Highwaymanman

A-List Customer
Messages
360
Location
Nowhere
Thanks for the love guys. I got the jacket at the factory on sale for $540 or so. I sent it back and it cost me $215 to get it adjusted, plus about $50 for shipping both ways. So in the end it cost me about 8 Large. Which is STILL less than I'd pay for an Aero, Alexander, BK, ELC or GoodWear. I was like a mother hen waiting for the mods to get done though. I'm sure they took the entire jacket apart and redid her almost from scratch. I asked for and they sent the scraps, I wanted to make some leather pulls, however there's so much in the box I'm going to take them to a local leather company and see if I can get some gloves made out of it. Seriously!

Worf


Beautiful jacket, perfect fit. Looking sharp there!
 

IXL

One Too Many
Messages
1,284
Location
Oklahoma
It looks like they did an outstanding job of "slimmerizing" that jacket, from what I can see. I would love to have one in that color.
 

Graemsay

Practically Family
Messages
998
Location
Melbourne
Good looking jacket there Worf, and the fit seems to be spot-on.

If you're looking for a pair of gloves, give Daniel Storto in Gloversville a shout. He does some interesting work, and is reasonably local to you. I wouldn't mind a pair of them myself.
 

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