Uneven grain/crease on a Horsehide?

[Marc mndt]

I

Hey thanks. I knew that coming in, that the bottom "skirts" like it did on the model from Rivet and Hide. I am cool with it tho, my waist is like a size 30/31 in levi's but I have a 40" chest.

It does hug my chest a bit, but I have some room still, but then again I have a weird caveman body with wider lats and a round back. Here it is zipped all the way up ft. my gym shorts.

Edit: Unless it looks horribad, objectively speaking

I think it looks great. I kind of like the flared bottom opening.

Edit: flare will be more moderate when worn with that hoodie.

 

[blobsterroll]

Yeah I like the flaring out in a weird way, makes it easier to wear imho. I think the tight fit or perfectly tailored fit like

Has its place and for different styles, just not what I want I guess. The flare to me is like a masculine fit, idk how to describe it.

Although I don't shy away from getting things tailored if I do decide to keep it. It wouldn't be much otherwise it might look like a pirate shirt.

 

[blobsterroll]

FWIW this is really the style I'm going for, instead of actual vintage/workwear.

So Chelsea boots in brown or black, suede, and shiny. Sneakers, and occasionally my Red Wings if the weather is wet or I'm in my motorcycle. Almost always black jeans and shirt or hoodie.

Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[BloodEagle]

Looks great to my eyes, fits really nicely without being too tight - good score - now I want one !

 

[Spiney]

Looks good but I’m not sure you have room for a hoodie. Looks tight on chest with the t shirt.

 

[blobsterroll]

Team, I think Double Helix just makes jackets that flares at the bottom. Due to narrow shoulders pattern or is that a new style?

 

[Marc mndt]

Team, I think Double Helix just makes jackets that flares at the bottom. Due to narrow shoulders pattern or is that a new style?

I think this one 'flares' because it's unbuttoned. A type I or II that flares at the bottom would be pretty bad

 

[blobsterroll]

I think this one 'flares' because it's unbuttoned. A type I or II that flares at the bottom would be pretty bad

That would be, look at the back tho

Im still deliberating if I should keep this jacket

 

[dudewuttheheck]

That would be, look at the back tho

Im still deliberating if I should keep this jacket

As of now I'd say it's good enough to keep. It's not perfect, but it fits a heck of a lot better than most of my early leather jackets did. Like I said in my post before, I'm nit picking. It's an overall good fit from what I can see.

Of course, what matters most is what you think.

 

[blobsterroll]

Looks good but I’m not sure you have room for a hoodie. Looks tight on chest with the t shirt.

I tried it, I do. So I wear only thin fitted hoodies anyway, as much wool as possible. I'll be warm for down to 30 degrees

 

[blobsterroll]

As of now I'd say it's good enough to keep. It's not perfect, but it fits a heck of a lot better than most of my early leather jackets did. Like I said in my post before, I'm nit picking. It's an overall good fit from what I can see.

Of course, what matters most is what you think.

Hmmm ok. I would also hold off on considering getting it tailored until I break it in some more.

I will probably get stoned for saying this; but I am convinced that even Horsehide stretches... but not a lot.

 

[handymike]

I thought the same until I heard the seams pop.
It cost me $200 bucks for a new lining.

 

[zebedee]

Fit looks ok to me. If leather is too tight on a skinny person, it's a bit more forgiving; if a person carries extra weight, it's like comical sausage skin in too many cases. I reckon that slightly too loose is better than too tight if a person has a gut. Nothing weirder than when an unzipped jacket looks as if its crowning a gut after the zipped-up 'expecting' effect.

 

[blobsterroll]

I thought the same until I heard the seams pop.
It cost me $200 bucks for a new lining.

Damn. Ok, no zipping up when on hoodie mode

 

[Damon141]

I bought a Flat Head Delraiser last year and off the rack both sleeves were perfectly smooth. Only a few wears leater the difference between the left and the right sleeves are significantly more pronounced than your panel on the back of the sleeve. I have to admit it does bother me but I love the jacket and the leather is a dream otherwise.I bought a Flat Head Delraiser last year and off the rack both sleeves were perfectly smooth. Only a few wears leater the difference between the left and the right sleeves are significantly more pronounced than your panel on the back of the sleeve. I have to admit it does bother me but I love the jacket and the leather is a dream otherwise. View attachment 439271 View attachment 439269 View attachment 439270

And this is probably why you see so many brand new jackets on eBay or Grailed. If it’s not a fit issue from ordering online then I’d put money it’s stuff like this. People thinking wrinkles are a defect.

Keep in mind this Leather comes from animals and they use different the hides that come from different areas, double shoulders etc. Animals move and walk and some areas might crease more on one side due to the section of the animal used,

If your just interested in using the jacket to go to dinner or out with friends it’s or don’t like natural aging of natural leather then it’s probably in your interest to buy a smooth corrected chrome tanned Lambskin jacket, There is nothing wrong with that.

I see instagram accounts all the time where people have amazing collections and take pictures of a jacket 3 years later that still looks new, either do to a massive collection or they like keeping their clothing pristine, nothing wrong with it at all but don’t assume something is wrong with your jacket because one side is creasing faster.

These Flat Head jackets are motorcycle jackets that get blasted with bugs, road tar, dirt, gravel, rain and so forth. Sure they don’t have armor but they are still aiming at a certain culture.

Just look at this jacket below over 50 years old, mint condition but the leather has developed beautiful creases everywhere and yours will too if you wear it.

 

[Lean'n'mean]

I am not sure if I am just seeing things or if this is normal, but after a Schott Horsehide I decided to cop a Doulbe Helix Works 'Deviant' Teacore Black jacket from Snake Oil Provisions.

It is very grainy/creasey out of the box (or so I think) and very stiff. And looking at the upper left sleeve/triceps area of the jacket it seems to be softer and more creased than the other parts (picture of it beside the other sleeve). Attached pic highlighted in red. Maybe a weak point as it ages.

It seems to be one panel of Horsehide but its softer, more creased and feels more "broken in" than the rest of the jacket and of that sleeve panel, meaning the forearm area of the same cut is smoother like the other sleeve. Maybe SOP sent me an old jacket? A jacket that they let customers try on? It did come from LA all the way to Germany in a box in the summer so idk if thats the reason, they dont do refunds either!

Is this normal? Not what I expect from a $2k Japanese Horsehide jacket...

The problem is they've used part of the belly leather. High end leather products, upholstry & clothing, usually disgard that part of the hide as it's weaker & because of it's loose open grain & stretchier (?) structure, it's subject to wrinkling.

 

[Despot]

Re: Double Helix … I picked up a Deviant in my size (44) a month or so ago. I’ve a few other jackets - a couple of Aeros, an Addict AD01, Flat Head Delraiser, Vanson C2RN and now this … so I’ve had a few to compare to. I’ll post photos up when I can … but my initial impressions on a month where it’s gotten daily driver use.

1. Leather - yeah … it’s got a bit of the ‘ball sack’ leather as others have christened it - one shoulder has it, but it doesn’t feel or seem structurally weak there. It’s purely cosmetic and I neither like nor dislike it. It’s just how it is. The leather broke in faster than my other horsehide jackets (the Addict jacket being the toughest for me at least). Can’t speak to the Delraiser as it came to me used.

2. Fit - the flare issue: your mileage may vary, but the slight bit of hem flare on my deviant works for me. I’m carrying a bit more weight around my middle than I like (but a hell of a lot less than a year ago). My Delraiser fits, but it’s tight zipped. I like it that way … but there’s no way to layer. The DH has a bit more ease in the waist with the slight bit of flare … it’s not loose like my Vanson… it’s just eased enough to make zipping it closed easy. For my body type it’s perfect.

3. Styling - again … your mileage may vary … but for me it fits and works. My only gripe is the way they’ve done the bi-swing shoulders - the ‘gusset’ on the back tends to give the front a boxy shoulder look compared to the softer shoulder of the Delraiser (with full length J24 type bi-swing back). It’ll ease as it breaks in I think … but it’s something I didn’t realise at first when it was stiff … I just put it down to unbroken hide.

4. Finishing - all stitching is super clean, straight and even. I can’t find an obvious flaw in the construction or finishing.

Overall the DH works really well for me. Sizing is spot on, and at least for my body shape it works far better than the other jackets.