Underwelts - Yay or Nay?

[Leacock]

I am commissioning a hat and would like some information on underwelts. Are they worth having? This would be a beaver felt hat.

The only other felt hat I have (from the PRC so probably a rabbit mink blend or something) does not have anything on the edges and seems fine though I have only had it for a few months.

So what is everyone's opinion on the topic?

 

[fedoracentric]

Hmmm. I have never considered if they are "better" or "worth having." They are a style. They look nice. But so does every other kind of brim treatment. I guess it is a matter of your tastes.

 

[daizawaguy]

I have a definite opinion on an under welt - its personal, but for some unknown reason its the wrong way round. I just think a hat looks better with an over welt. It could be that it has something to do with the hidden part - I prefer to see the turn-up, rather than have is like a hidden hem, is I guess what it boils down to. I guess I feel the under welt is hiding something, but the over welt is showing it off...

 

[frussell]

When done right, I agree 100% with daizawaguy. Over welt or bound edge for me any day. Frank

 

[TheDane]

My point of wiev is, that it's all up to you. What do you like? Who cares, what I like - and who should?

 

[Banky]

For me, having attempted to do them and having what I considered deplorable results I see a well executed underwelt as a thing of beauty and a show of great craftsmanship. That being said, they aren't my preference for personal wear.

 

[Greyryder]

Underwelt is my favorite brim treatment. If I was having a hat custom made, I'd absolutely get an underwelt. On the other hand, I really don't like overwelts.

 

[Brother cavefish]

underwelt, i have a stetson and the brim rolls down and then is sewn-------- i wished it was rolled up for me this suits me because i flip up my brims-- but for fedoras and akubras a raw edge is the way to go because i bend down in front- the hat pictured is the way to go anyways

 

[Leacock]

My point of wiev is, that it's all up to you. What do you like? Who cares, what I like - and who should?

I was thinking it may result in a stronger brim, but if it is purely æsthetic then that is not so important.

I was not quite clear on what the distinction was as I lack any fedoras with them and limited web searching did not offer much information or detailed image comparisons to decide if it was something I would prefer or not.

 

[gtdean48]

Under welts let rain run off the brim easier

 

[fedoracentric]

I was thinking it may result in a stronger brim, but if it is purely æsthetic then that is not so important.

I was not quite clear on what the distinction was as I lack any fedoras with them and limited web searching did not offer much information or detailed image comparisons to decide if it was something I would prefer or not.

It really doesn't do anything for "strength" as far as I know. It is just a cosmetic treatment.

As to web searches for the terms, these days about the only people even using the terms "underwelt" and "overwelt" are right here! LOL

 

[jlee562]

Underwelts are a passable substitute for a Cavanagh edge as well. I quite like underwelts, though if push came to shove, I might have slightly more affection for a bound ege. Still, I made sure to have some underwelts in my collection.

 

[Lean'n'mean]

Not quite sure what an underwelt is.................I'm presumming it is edge of the brim turned over & sewn as on leather, canvas & cheap wool hats (either with or without a wire)...........if so, no I don't like them. Overwelts then, must be the brim edge turned upwards & sewn which I dislike even more.
Raw edge would be my preference especially on an expensive hat & bound as a second choice.
I can't really see the point of welting a brim unless it's to hide something (such as brim wire) & aesthetically it only goes to 'cheapen' a hat but having walked the earth for over half a century I have learnt that individual tastes are hard to fathom & some folks must consider welting a thing of beauty.

 

[Rogera]

I think a well done overwelt looks like a Cavanagh edge from any distance and adds some visual interest to the brim. I like em. I think underwelts cause the brim to look very thick for no reason whereas with an overwelt the brim treatment is obvious.

 

[fedoracentric]

I can't really see the point of welting a brim unless it's to hide something (such as brim wire) & aesthetically it only goes to 'cheapen' a hat ....

Well, the Cavanagh Edge was famous for being one of the most expensive brim edge treatments (and one of the most desirable) in hat history and it is a blind over welt, so your thought that it "cheapens" a hat is not quite right. And almost never did a welt in a real fedora hide any wires. Wires did go in cheap wool hats, but not quality fur felt ones.

 

[Lean'n'mean]

Not being a hat expert I would have great difficulty in distinguishing between a Cavanagh edge on a beaver felt & the underwelt of a Bailey's lite wool felt hat, at least without a magnifying glass, so to me, a welted edge signifies 'cheap' however prestigious a welted or Cavanagh edge may be in some quarters. I'm not into thick chunky brims anyway. Of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder & since welted edges exist, someone must like 'em..........fortunately there are enough hat shapes, styles, colours & brim edge finishes to suit everyone.
I'll also remind you that the OP asked for our opinions on them, I merely gave mine.

 

[bowlerman]

I have yet to see an underwelt in person. I like my overwelts enough, but still prefer raw or bound, at least when a true felted edge is unavailable. Those are the best. I do rather enjoy the overwelt on this falcon park.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

 

[Loz Dawes]

as a lover of Porkpie hats, I prefer an overwelt... but that's just my taste... YMMV.

 

[1mach1]

Under welts let rain run off the brim easier

+1

 

[fedoracentric]

I like all brim treatments, myself (though I really like ribbon bound edges). But I am not against any of the styles.