UK? leather jacket ID help

[Chevalier]

I found this jacket vintage shopping in Portland. I bought it because it was a pretty good fit. There are no tags inside, and I think it is a replacement liner. It is cafe racer style with padded/quilted shoulders and elbows. The main zip is a CLIX and the collar snaps say Newey England, which made me think Lewis. The front pocket zips say Aero. The design does not match up with any current jackets I can find. Anybody know what it could be?

 

[yellowfever]

A nice jacket that fits you very well, snug just as such a jacket should fit, whatever it is. It’s hard to tell definitively from the limited photos (no picture of clix main zip, side buckles, sleeve zip pocket or lack thereof, no pic of rear of jacket showing panels etc)

BUT Clix main and newey snaps indeed suggest UK jacket as you say. However, many UK makers made one in this style. and they are hard to tell apart.

My guess would be TT leathers based on what appears to be turned over finished edges to the shoulder/elbow padding patches and no external manufacturers badge.

But lots of possibilities:

Lewis Leathers ‘Monza’ (or maybe ’phantom’) model (would have zip pocket on left sleeve near cuff, two waist buckles either side, plus oval LL badge on left breast or upper left arm or stitch holes giving evidence badge used to be there)

interstate leathers similar to LL Monza (would have two waist buckles either side, “interstate leathers” rectangular badge on right breast or evidence from stitch holes that there used to be one there, would have raw edges to shoulder/elbow padding patches)

Highwayman ‘Ricarde deluxe’ model (would have one waist buckle either side, would have raw edges to shoulder/elbow padding patches, no evidence of external manufacturers badges)

Rivetts/Champion/Speedman v similar/identical to Highwayman Ricarde deluxe (would have raw edges to shoulder/elbow padding patches, probably just one waist buckle either side, no evidence of external manufacturers badges)

MW leathers v similar/identical to Highwayman Ricarde deluxe (would have raw edges to shoulder/elbow padding patches, probably just one waist buckle either side)

TT leathers v similar to Highwayman Ricarde deluxe (would have one waist buckle either side, BUT padding overlay parches would have edges turned over and stitched down, not left raw)

Hope that helps! Enjoy the jacket whatever make it is,

 

[Aloysius]

yellowfever pretty much covered it all. I was about to tag in Edward for something similar.

 

[Chevalier]

Thanks for the info @yellowfever Sorry for not including more photos. The upload snagged on me, and I meant to do a second post with more pics. There are no waist buckles, which I thought odd for a UK jacket. There is also no sleeve pocket. The padding edges are unfinished.

The back is a single panel, except for the shoulder pads.

Here is the CLIX zipper.

There is evidence of a patch on the chest. I guess it could have been a maker patch.

Let me know if any of this points you towards a more specific ID. Otherwise, I’ll just enjoy it as a vintage find that fit me pretty well

 

[yellowfever]

Hi @Chevalier No problem, thanks for posting the extra photos. No buckles is unusual , any sign they used to be there and have been removed at some point?

The back is also unusual being one piece apart from the shoulder pads. Most of the designs I referenced had a yoke under the padding and multiple piece back (typically two side seams with a trapezoidal shaped centre piece). It’s closer to the back design of the LL phantom which had no yoke but a single centre seam (I think). Interestingly the phantom was a later LL design…

The rectangular shaped Clix zipper pull also suggests a later jacket maybe into early 1980’s rather than 1970’s (or 1960’s). But not later than that I think as later into 1980’s jackets often tended to have thicker padding including at the lower hem on the rear and also moved away from diamond shaped stitching on the padding to just eg parallel lines. So I don’t think it’s later than early 1980’s…

Circular ghost badge not ringing any bells as a manufacturers badge (LL oval, Interstate rectangular, others had no external makers badges I think). Could be a removed badge/patch that had been originally added by earlier jacket owner? Some French brands (Furygan, maybe Segura?) went in for external round makers badges in older jackets but they were big badges and anyway snaps and zip suggest not French…)

There are other UK brands that it may also be worth considering like Wolf Leathers (going since 1969 apparently) or Mascot Leathers (going since 1950’s folded in 1990’s and since reborn) or even Scott leathers (a spin off of TT leathers that became pretty big, tho’ maybe later era than your jacket?). It might even still be TT leathers as their 1980’s jackets were a little different and I think they stopped doing the finished padding edges…

Another option is it could be Canadian. I’m not knowledgeable on Canadian jackets but I do know their designs sometimes took inspiration from UK jackets (as well as, more typically, USA ones) and they used UK hardware like Clix in some jackets… given where you found it a Canadian jacket could be a possibility and explain the details not totally matching the more typical UK designs…

Anyway, sorry not to be able to better pin it down for you, but some ideas to consider. And regardless, a nice find

 

[barnabus]

Hi @Chevalier No problem, thanks for posting the extra photos. No buckles is unusual , any sign they used to be there and have been removed at some point?

The back is also unusual being one piece apart from the shoulder pads. Most of the designs I referenced had a yoke under the padding and multiple piece back (typically two side seams with a trapezoidal shaped centre piece). It’s closer to the back design of the LL phantom which had no yoke but a single centre seam (I think). Interestingly the phantom was a later LL design…

The rectangular shaped Clix zipper pull also suggests a later jacket maybe into early 1980’s rather than 1970’s (or 1960’s). But not later than that I think as later into 1980’s jackets often tended to have thicker padding including at the lower hem on the rear and also moved away from diamond shaped stitching on the padding to just eg parallel lines. So I don’t think it’s later than early 1980’s…

Circular ghost badge not ringing any bells as a manufacturers badge (LL oval, Interstate rectangular, others had no external makers badges I think). Could be a removed badge/patch that had been originally added by earlier jacket owner? Some French brands (Furygan, maybe Segura?) went in for external round makers badges in older jackets but they were big badges and anyway snaps and zip suggest not French…)

There are other UK brands that it may also be worth considering like Wolf Leathers (going since 1969 apparently) or Mascot Leathers (going since 1950’s folded in 1990’s and since reborn) or even Scott leathers (a spin off of TT leathers that became pretty big, tho’ maybe later era than your jacket?). It might even still be TT leathers as their 1980’s jackets were a little different and I think they stopped doing the finished padding edges…

Another option is it could be Canadian. I’m not knowledgeable on Canadian jackets but I do know their designs sometimes took inspiration from UK jackets (as well as, more typically, USA ones) and they used UK hardware like Clix in some jackets… given where you found it a Canadian jacket could be a possibility and explain the details not totally matching the more typical UK designs…

Anyway, sorry not to be able to better pin it down for you, but some ideas to consider. And regardless, a nice find

TT Leathers had a rectangular badge at the top of the sleeve, where the quilt padding is.