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Tuxedo with a fedora?

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Wow, most of these posters haven't been around in years!

From the moment that Griswold Lorillard popularized the sack coat as evening wear in America by wearing one at the Tuxedo Park Ball in NY in November 1886, (and inadvertently giving the garment its common name in the process), there seemed to a conflict over which hat to wear with the coat. Most American newspaper reports show that the high silk hat was not appropriate, and instead a low-crowned hat (soft felt, perhaps), a Derby, or even a black straw in summer, would be appropriate. However, there are also reports of those who favored the high silk hat with the Tuxedo coat. With the popular (and sometimes, begrudging) acceptance of the Tuxedo coat in America by 1890, it was obvious that fashion needed to find the correct solution. And thus the invention of the Tuxedo Hat by 1892-93. I've found no records of who made the first Tuxedo hat, though I know of at least several American manufacturers made them well into the twentieth century. It wouldn't surprise me if it originated as a French design, since we have seen a couple of French examples here on the Lounge, but I like to think that it might be one of the few hats of American invention. I can prove nothing, however. Someone like Knox could very easily have introduced it to America, just as they did the Fedora, or been the inventors in the first place. I'd sure like to know.

As stated above, either a Fedora or Homburg would be considered correct today, if there even is such a thing a correctness anymore. If you could find a vintage Tuxedo hat on eBay, that would be even better.

History side note: the was a woman's hat called the Tuxedo that was offered as early as 1887, but named after Tuxedo Park, as were many fashions of the day. It had nothing to do with the sack coat and looked nothing like a man's hat.

Brad
~The Hatted Professor
 
Last edited:

AEF17

New in Town
Messages
29
Location
Pennsylvania
I would love to know when it became "set in stone" that a homburg is to be worn. Really does it matter if one isn't going to be outside all that much in a dinner suit/tuxedo, and the hat comes off once you enter a building (except perhaps a crowded bar)?

I've seen enough late silent/early talking films in which I've seen straw boaters, Optimos, fedoras (gray and black), bowlers, and top hats with tuxedoes. You can certainly say that was a long time ago, but why the restriction only to a homburg? Some of us with wide faces look best in a wide-brimmed fedora, and if that was ok back then, suits me for now.

Also, really, how few "in the know" are going to judge if everything else is on-point? Petty.
 

Doctor Strange

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,245
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
I can't believe folks are still arguing over the rules for formalwear when we live in an era where vast chunks of people go everywhere in pajama pants, shorts, flip-flops, T-shirts, sports team jerseys, and hoodies!

Just wear what you want. A black or gray fedora is FINE with a tux these days. You'll be spectacularly well dressed compared to the majority who consider just a button-down shirt "formal"!
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
For me, formal and semi-formal attire is about adhering to the “rules” and not the time to display one’s individuality. Sure, in this day and age one can get away with most anything and in the end we’re just talking about sartorial etiquette and not some immutable laws of physics. Still, if your dressing in black or white tie and not “modern formal” why not do it right? No long ties. No notch lapels. No derby/bluchers. And I believe the black homburg is your best hat option. You can wear whatever you want without fear of scandal. You can wear a floral cummerbund with matching tie, loafers (not opera shoes), and a deerstalker and not cause a stir. You can wear a regular black suit and not a dinner suit and most won’t know the difference. Maybe you’ll be the avant-garde leading the way to the new “normal.”

All this is to say, I don’t think it’s a hard rule, but I think all men look better with a black homburg when wearing black tie. Just one man’s opinion.


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Messages
19,409
Location
Funkytown, USA
I can't believe folks are still arguing over the rules for formalwear when we live in an era where vast chunks of people go everywhere in pajama pants, shorts, flip-flops, T-shirts, sports team jerseys, and hoodies!

Just wear what you want. A black or gray fedora is FINE with a tux these days. You'll be spectacularly well dressed compared to the majority who consider just a button-down shirt "formal"!

Which of course gives rise to the question: what is the proper headware for an evening out in pajama bottoms and a sports t-shirt?


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Which of course gives rise to the question: what is the proper headware for an evening out in pajama bottoms and a sports t-shirt?


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Now we’re into deep waters. I think we’ll have to wait until the grand unifying theory gets worked out before this can be answered. This is right up there with why women look better in men’s hats then men do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,829
90B23986-1327-41EF-969F-E3539F22BEE5.jpeg
Greetings All:
A tuxedo demands your finest top hat. Everyone knows that. To demean with a fedora is just plain gauche!!
I always wear my M/C tuxedo with a top hat.
B
 

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