Tuxedo and accompanying attire...

[Workhorse]

Hello,

I'm looking for input about what goes with a tuxedo for my wedding. I have seen examples in the movies but am looking for some direction. I have a Union Tag dated 1939 black tuxedo that is in nice shape that I need to get a shirt and shoes for. Possibly a bow tie as well.

There is more than a wealth of knowledge here and I am hoping you all can steer me in the right direction. Where do I look for a shirt (I prefer French cuffs)? Nice shoes? I have cuff links and could probably get a proper bow tie. I'm looking for some solid input and appreciate your help and time. Thank you in advance.

Ross

 

[GHT]

Whatever you choose will, I'm sure look superb on your big day. I do hope you post a photo or two. You might consider a shirt with a detachable collar and a starched bib. Instead of buttons black or mother of pearl shirt studs. For shoes a pair of black brogues. I thought of spectators, but you must remember, don't look too much like a dandy, it's the bride's day too.
If you have difficulty tying a bow tie this brief tutorial by Charles is great for beginners.

 

[Edward]

Start here: http://www.blacktieguide.com

Definitely learn to tie your own bow. The best one I've ever found OTR is here: http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/neckwear/black-silk-pointed-end-bow-tie-self-tie-cr546b.html

Darcy's shirts are also wonderful; I'm rather a fan of their faux boiled fronts - all the look of a proper stiff, boiled bib shirt but none of the hassle. Machine washable! I like a shirt with a studded instead of buttoned front - it's all personal taste, really. I don't care for what some consider to be the uber-correct, 'old-money' option of a white shirt with exposed, ordinary shirt buttons - again, ymmv.

For shoes, patent leather plain or cap-toed Oxfords are my preference, though you could get a similar effect with a pair of 'ordinary' black leather Oxfords if you were prepared to bull them, military style. Lot of work if you can avoid it, though.

And learn the style mantra: "Creative Black Tie is an Abomination."

 

[MisterCairo]

"Creative Black Tie is an Abomination."

Or "Creative Black Tie is an Oxymoron"...

 

[Workhorse]

Thank you for the quick replies! I'm familiar with self tie bow ties and wouldn't be caught dead in a clip on

I would like to find the pointed collar starch front shirt, and the studs if I can source them. I was thinking black cap toe oxfords with a high shine if that will be sufficient. Spectators are lovely but like you suggest, might be a tad too much.

 

[Edward]

Years ago I was in the habit of wearing specs with black tie. It can be a bit of flair, but these days I prefer a more traditional approach. The real joy of black tie is wearing the same thing as everyone else, but better.

 

[scotrace]

This is an extensive, comprehensive and extremely useful thread on all things formal wear and male:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/formal-wear-primer.6761/

 

[MondoFW]

Yes, don't make the same mistake Edward did, as spectators are casual shoes.

Aa presented by other replies, there are a plethora of primers and guides for formal wear. Gentlemen's Gazette has a video and article on formal wear, and the Gazette has a very vintage and classic approach to fashion. Their formal wear primer should be accurate, in that respect. Few people do black tie correctly these days.

 

[Edward]

Yes, don't make the same mistake Edward did, as spectators are casual shoes.

Well.... 'mistake' is debatable, I was deliberately bending the 'rules' at the time.

Few people do black tie correctly these days.

I've been wondering a lot about this of late, whether there really can be a definitive black tie 'correctness'. The concept of black tie emerged in the 20s but it was into the 30s before it started to develop a set of fairly common 'rules'. While certain features stayed the same until fairly recently, the cut of a dinner jacket varied significantly from the 30s to the 60s, and even moreso since (unlike White tie, where a tailcoat from 1920 is not significantly distinguishable from a tailcoat made today). I wonder whether today's black tie isn't "wrong" so much as it has simply evolved - like a lounge suit - as opposed to solidified into a codified look, like Highland Dress or White tie.... In any case, the modern changes don't appeal to me. Aside from the skinny fit and low waists, I don't care for notch lapels, pocket flaps, more than one fastening button.... all additions that are now so common as to be arguably accepted, but which (for all the reasons previously discussed) water down the distinction between black tie and lounge suit. I'd be very disappointed if black tie got to the point of being essentially a black lounge suit with a black bow tie. I prefer the 1930s "rules" on black tie, even if they aren't "rules" for today.

All that said, I've also seen some rather nice versions of black tie in recent years; if Charles TYrwhitt would but raise the rise of their classic fit trousers by 2" and add 4" to the fly zip, widen their lapels by an inch, they had a very nice midnight blue dinner jacket and trousers in their collection last year.

Interestingly, one trend I'm noticing more and more is dinner jackets that are otherwise entirely 'correct' as we would consider them, yet have pocket flaps.... Less of an issue than additional buttons, as these could be easily removed....

 

[Workhorse]

Edward,

I contacted Darcy Clothing and asked about their "sizing" and they say it is "loose". I am a 15 23/33 but when looking to order the Marcella front collared shirt http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/s...la-front-wing-collar-evening-shirt-sh231.html

It only allows for neck sizing. Have you ordered shirts or ties from Darcy? If so, how do they fit, loose, snug or other? I'm looking to order the shirt, the self tie fitted black bow tie and shirt studs. I appreciate any information you have and wouldn't mind sharing.

Thank you all for your input, I truly appreciate the help!

 

[F. J.]

Edward,

I contacted Darcy Clothing and asked about their "sizing" and they say it is "loose". I am a 15 23/33 but when looking to order the Marcella front collared shirt http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/s...la-front-wing-collar-evening-shirt-sh231.html

It only allows for neck sizing. Have you ordered shirts or ties from Darcy? If so, how do they fit, loose, snug or other? I'm looking to order the shirt, the self tie fitted black bow tie and shirt studs. I appreciate any information you have and wouldn't mind sharing.

Thank you all for your input, I truly appreciate the help!

I’m not Edward, but I have a few shirts and several collars from Darcy. I am rather on the corpulent side and they fit me well enough and as your neck size is 15", I would say they will probably fit you fine. The sleeves will be too long, but that’s what arm bands (sleeve garters) are for. Arm bands also allow you to custom-fit the sleeves to different jackets.

If I could only have one evening shirt and wanted it be as versatile as possible, I would get the “Marcella front collarless evening shirt” with the “Washable Wing Collar Extra High” and the “Washable Burlington Collar” (don’t forget the collar studs). This way you can wear your shirt with both wing and turn-down collars to match the occasion. Order the shirt in your exact neck size and the collars and sized tie one half-size up. For example, my neck size is 17½", so my shirts are 17½" and my collars and sized ties are 18".

Darcy used to have some proper double-sided mother-of-pearl chain cuff links, but they seem to be out. Cuff links with the toggle back are fine on double cuffs, but far less than ideal on stiff single cuffs. With the single cuffs, you can more easily see both sides of the cuffs and the toggle is quite unsightly. I have a Brooks Brothers gold and mother-of-pearl set with toggle-back cuff links. What I used to do with my stiff-fronted shirts was to wear the studs with a pair of gold filigree double-sided chain cuff links. When I finally got my white-tie rig, I decided to buy a vintage Krementz dress set on eBay.

If you can’t find a proper matching set with double-sided chain cuff links, I would get Darcy’s pearl with gilt trim dress studs and wear them with these plain gold-finish double-sided chain cuff links.