Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[Opas Coat]

I have a leather one, resembling that of a 1940's German officer. As said above, I'm 6'4" and 6'6" ish with my boots at 200#'s.

With suit in a formal fashion, usually with belt worn/ tied, buttoned up pending weather. My regretabley only good suit is a black pin stripe with a black shirt and red or green tie, black fedora.

In my usual street dress (sorry, I'm not very vintage at this point) Boot cut jeans, cow boy boots, preferred black t shirt, tucked in, black leather belt belt, as always when long enough hair slicked, jacket open without belt + fedora.

Now unfortunately I cant ware it often around here, its far too cold in the winter (-45) and too warm in the summer (+35) but its excellent for the fall/ winter and rain and especially again with my black fedora.

I will post a picture probably tomorrow with my newest acquisition.

With having a "rare" coat for this area, I get ALLOT of compliments. One guy even wanted to know if I could give it or sell it to him...

Not me but same coat:

where can I get boots like this, they would be excellent for my motorcycle.

 

[Lone_Ranger]

I always wear mine unbuttoned, for quick access to my shoulder holster.

But, I have to stick the buckle in the coat pocket, or it has "issues" with the car door. I've ruined many a buckle that way. I don't know about the original officers coat, but the newer ones have plastic buckles.

I'd love to get one of the German officers type leather coats. They were private purchase and supposed to be the same pattern as the Imperial German Greatcoat. Which means the back vent, goes up high enough, to allow you to ride a motorcycle or horse. (Including the 'duster' straps to keep them next to your legs) I'm never able to find one in a store, that doesn't disappoint me with the quality of the leather. The metal buttons do make the coat a little too, military for my purposes, too.

 

[Opas Coat]

Mine doesn't have that, I bought it at "The Leather Ranch" clearance sale just before they closed. Short of $1000 sticker with 30% off... I wanted one for YEARS and when this chance popped up I couldn't say no. Besides, my girl friend got a nice lamb skin coat reg $600, 50% off and %50 off from that because I bought mine = $150! (Buy one get half off next)

 

[Hal]

...a single breasted...trench coat...

Sorry to be pedantic, but a true trench-coat is double-breasted and belted, with epaulettes, "gun-flap" and traditionally D-rings on the belt. So all trench-coats are raincoats, but not all raincoats are trench-coats.
Is the use of "trench-coat" for any raincoat yet another UK/USA language difference?

 

[Spitfire]

Why, "Commando" of course! lol

In all seriousness though, I've been contemplating one for awhile now. I'm torn on which color - camel or black. Was one color more common than the other in the Golden Era?

I'm now looking at the Brooks Bros. trench - Thanks Miles!

I am pretty sure that camel/sand/khaki was the common colour in the old days. The black came later. But I am no trench expert.

 

[Lone_Ranger]

Sorry to be pedantic, but a true trench-coat is double-breasted and belted, with epaulettes, "gun-flap" and traditionally D-rings on the belt. So all trench-coats are raincoats, but not all raincoats are trench-coats.
Is the use of "trench-coat" for any raincoat yet another UK/USA language difference?

It's not a UK/USA difference. The proper Private-eye trench, is double-breasted!

The original "trench," was part of the WWI British officers uniform. Thus, the "trench" designation. By WWII, American officers had them too. By then, they didn't see much "trench" usage. They were more for dress uniform use by then.

 

[robojam]

Sorry to be pedantic, but a true trench-coat is double-breasted and belted, with epaulettes, "gun-flap" and traditionally D-rings on the belt. So all trench-coats are raincoats, but not all raincoats are trench-coats.
Is the use of "trench-coat" for any raincoat yet another UK/USA language difference?

I have to agree that it is becomming very popular to refer to any raincoat as a trench coat. Its all the featuress that Hal lists are what differentiates a trench coat from a rainicoat. Similarly, the term mack, or mackintosh is often used to describe a raincoat. The true, traditional mackintosh is only constructed from a totally waterproof material with a rubber proofing bonded onto the surface. Usually on the inside surface the coat, sometimes outside or sandwiched between two layers of cloth, usually cotton.
Perhaps not so much a language issue but more of a move by designers away from the traditional values and purpose of these garment. As an item of rainwear the modern versions are not so good for protection as their inventors intended.

 

[SpatzKat]

I strongly agree with Nick here, and don't mind if it looks "severe".

The single-breasted (raglan-sleeve, fly-front) raincoat is fine for the summer and for light rain. For serious/heavy rain the more protective trenchcoat is better - ideally, this should be longer and have a detachable winter lining. In a country like the UK where it rains a lot, two raincoats are not an extravagance.

Does any of you wear either of these styles as a light topcoat when a suit on its own is not warm enough but a wool overcoat would be too warm?

I most deffinately wear a trenchcoat in foul weather. I see it as a garment that while stylish, has the more practical aspects of keeping my clothes clean and keeping me warm. I find that I do well without using the liner most times. As for how it's worn? The nastier the weather, the more I button it up. I generally keep the belt buckled loosely.

 

[Tomasso]

all trench-coats are raincoats, but not all raincoats are trench-coats.

Exactly.

 

[Opas Coat]

Not in formal or fashionable... Its just me.

Sorry, not in the mood to get my suit on.

 

[Edward]

It's a model by Aquascutum to their 'Bogart' design and was made to special order. The coat is similar to their standard trench but is longer at 52 inches ie mid calf length on me.

Any reason given for that? I associate Bogart very much with the shorter, on-the-knee length of his Casablanca trech, wehich was of course shortened to make him look taller (from memory, he was not an especially tall man). I'd go for ankle length, myself, were it an option! lol

I tend to wear mine fairly buttoned when cold and wet, otherwise open a lot of the time. Have fallen intothe habit of tying the belt instead of buckling, tghough more out of convenience than deliberately emulating Bogart.

I'm never able to find one in a store, that doesn't disappoint me with the quality of the leather. The metal buttons do make the coat a little too, military for my purposes, too.

The typical WW2 period German coats, though, were made to a design without buttons, with the coat being held closed by belt only....

Sorry to be pedantic, but a true trench-coat is double-breasted and belted, with epaulettes, "gun-flap" and traditionally D-rings on the belt. So all trench-coats are raincoats, but not all raincoats are trench-coats.
Is the use of "trench-coat" for any raincoat yet another UK/USA language difference?

Jings, you should see what comes up as "trenchcoat" on eBay..... the best is usually that they identify a long, db overcoat thus. I've seen Harringtons and similar described as "trench coat". [huh]

I am pretty sure that camel/sand/khaki was the common colour in the old days. The black came later. But I am no trench expert.

In my mind, black cotton trenches were in large part an 80s thing? Seems to me that khaki and, into the 50s, green were the original colours, reflecting military origins. I suspect that grey came along as many associated that colour with the coat due to how a khaki trench appeared in a black and white Hollywood film... no proof, though, mere speculation on my part.

 

[BellyTank]

The typical WW2 period German coats, though, were made to a design without buttons, with the coat being held closed by belt only....

WW2 German military ones had buttons-
and alas, a lot of "post-war-pretending-to-be-wartime-and-earlier" coats
are the non-button variety.
"Buttons", of course, were a part of military uniform.


B
T

 

[Lone_Ranger]

WW2 German military ones had buttons-
and alas, a lot of "post-war-pretending-to-be-wartime-and-earlier" coats
are the non-button variety.
"Buttons", of course, were a part of military uniform.


B
T

BellyTank is correct! The leather officers greatcoat, was an optional private purchase. The "issue" greatcoat, was the same as the older Imperial German greatcoat. The leather one was supposed to "copy," the style of the issue. However, as with all private purchase items, they varied, depending on the maker.


http://www.fasaexport.com/military_leather_great_coat.htm

http://www.totls.com/LEATHER JACKETS OF THE THIRD REICH.htm

"Pebbled" metal buttons were standard, on both issue, and private purchase coats.

 

[BellyTank]

Having said that, I DO have a WW2 era(maybe earlier), German leather coat with the belt fastening and without the buttons. I can date it to wartime because of a special little stamp it has in one of the pocket linings.
It is a coat which had been "obtained" by the powers that be(been) from commercial stocks, or perhaps a private closet and pressed into (para)military use. The stamp bears an Eagle and the letters HU, which stands for "Heeres Unterkunft".


B
T

 

[Edward]

Ah, there we are, I'm learning something new here! I was under the impression the belt-fastrening models were a pp thing, but I wasn't aware there was an issue item as well, and a model that had the buttons.... Quite possibly, as BT says, due to the degree of 50s and later stuff that gets passed off as WW2 Wehrmacht....

 

[celtic]

where can I get boots like this, they would be excellent for my motorcycle.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/new-german-navy-leather-boots-black.aspx?a=511201


also many kinds here (although I can't comment, as I've never ordered here):
http://www.tridentmilitary.com/Boots.htm

I've also seen many pairs on ebay with names like "German military boots" or "German Jackboots"

I've always thought they'd make a great motorcycle boot myself, but I haven't bought any because I have a very high instep and thus have a hard time with pull-on boots.

 

[Geronimo]

I've always thought they'd make a great motorcycle boot myself, but I haven't bought any because I have a very high instep and thus have a hard time with pull-on boots.

Have you tried engineer boots? I think they have more room in the instep than the typical jackboot. Not positive on that, though.

FWIW, re: the original thread topic - I just use the belt on mine. Takes too long to button it up. If I'm walking a considerable distance, then I button it up. Or if it's absurdly cold. I tuck the belt in the side pockets when not using it.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

I am looking for screen grabs of Rick wearing his coat. Specifically, I need screen grabs that show off the belt. I believe the best ones would come from when he is getting on the train to leave France.
Thanx!!!
Charlie

 

[WineGuy]

Does anyone make an exact replica of Bogarts Trench coat?

Guys, I've scanned more FL threads and google searches than I can remember, can someone tell me if they've found a vender for a good and accurate reproduction of Bogarts Trench coat as worn in Casablanca or even the Maltese Falcon? I'm surprised how many clothiers promote "Bogey" trench coats that don't even remotely resemble the original.

If it doesn't have the double gun flaps, epaulets, wrist straps and reversed peak collar please don't forward it to me.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[avedwards]

Guys, I've scanned more FL threads and google searches than I can remember, can someone tell me if they've found a vender for a good and accurate reproduction of Bogarts Trench coat as worn in Casablanca or even the Maltese Falcon?

I'm afraid I can't help you, but can correct you. He doesn't wear a trench coat in The Maltese Falcon, but wears a double breasted wool great coat in several scenes.