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Treating new veg-tanned leather

  • Thread starter Deleted member 16736
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Deleted member 16736

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My JC Dubow jacket is made of veg-tanned leather that absorbs water like a sponge. I know everybody says to leave new leather alone, but if it's going to rot, I want to try and protect it. Does anybody have any insight into whether new veg-tanned leather should be treated, and if so, with what? Thank you.
 

WhiskeyTangoFox

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I wouldn't worry about it too much but if you want to make the surface more water resistant, I would apply a very light coat of Pecard leather dressing (very, very light). Let it sit for a day or so and then use a clean cotton rag to wipe off any excess that's left. It won't completely waterproof it but will give it some water resistance.

Noel
 
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Deleted member 16736

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I wouldn't worry about it too much but if you want to make the surface more water resistant, I would apply a very light coat of Pecard leather dressing (very, very light). Let it sit for a day or so and then use a clean cotton rag to wipe off any excess that's left. It won't completely waterproof it but will give it some water resistance.

Noel

Thanks, Noel. I already ordered some Pecards for doing exactly that. I've used Pecards before and found it to be excellent, but you have to use it lightly. They recommend buffing it vigorously right after application to melt the wax into the leather.

Your name reminds me of an old Dorothy Parker line which is appropriate for the Fedora Lounge. One day Noel Coward saw Dorothy Parker in a suit. He said, "Dorothy, you almost look like a man in that suit."

Dorothy thought for a moment and replied, "So do you, Noel... so do you."
 

JanSolo

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Ever so sunny Westphalia, Germany
I know everybody says to leave new leather alone

This is true for heavy chrome tanned leather which has received an additional "hot stuffing" (i.e. Horween Chromexcel (Aero FQHH)).
Veg tanned leather is totally different in several ways. Generally veg tanned leather is left very dry after the skins are processed into leather. Also the tanning agents don't bond that permantely to the tissue fibres as they do in chrome tanned leather. In other words: You can wash the tanning agents out of veg tanned hide. This may take a while but it is possible and it will ruin the leather whereas chrome salts will bond forever to the protein fibres.

I highly recommend a good leather preserver for your veg tanned jacket!!

PS: Don't rub too much and be careful with the top stitching! A hair dryer is the best way to get all conditoner into the leather! Works a treat!
 

too much coffee

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Not too far from Spokane, WA
Very good information and advice Jan.

This is why a vegetable tanned A-2 gives the appearance of "been there, done that" quicker than say a Lost Worlds or U.S. Authentic chromium (chromed) tanned A-2 . The chromed tanned jacket adds a more protective barrier to the leather. It will break down eventually after many hard wearings over the years.

Regards, coffee
 
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10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
What method is used on goat used on Aero A2's?
Just picked up a used, but almost new Bronco.
Wondering what I could use on it? Leather is not in any way dry, etc.
 

too much coffee

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Hi ButteMT61:

I don't know which method Aero specifies from Horween for their goatskin. Goatskin is extremely water resistant, this is one of the reasons why the U.S. Navy specified goat for the G-1 jacket.

Having said that, I treat my G-1s with the same product I treat all my boots; Obenauff's.
I use their LP grease for the boots and their boot oil for the jackets, regardless of skin(steer, horse, goat). A little dab will do ya'.

I realize some may say it's heresy to not use anything but Pecards.

When I was a certified wildland fire fighter, that's what most of the guys on the line used on their White's, Wesco's, Hoffman's and Red Wings boots. I just sort of carried it over to other leather products.
 
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Messages
10,181
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Pasadena, CA
Wow, thanks Coffee!
Boot oil sounds so...heavy?
I've never treated any lamb or goat, only steer and horse.
I have no treatments currently so I'm looking to buy some.
Thx for the info. Much appreciated!
 
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Deleted member 16736

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Heat definitely helps the wax be absorbed into the leather. I find in the Texas heat just putting it outside for a spell is enough to get it absorbed.

By the way, I used Burt's Beeswax lip balm on my horsehide boots and it worked great. Gave it a nice shine and now it's totally water-repellant. I checked the ingredients first and it's mainly beeswax with some natural, plant-based oils. Probably just as good as Sno-Seal or anything else. Wouldn't dream of putting it on my nice leather jacket, but it worked on my boots.
 

too much coffee

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Not too far from Spokane, WA
Heat definitely helps the wax be absorbed into the leather. I find in the Texas heat just putting it outside for a spell is enough to get it absorbed.

By the way, I used Burt's Beeswax lip balm on my horsehide boots and it worked great. Gave it a nice shine and now it's totally water-repellant. I checked the ingredients first and it's mainly beeswax with some natural, plant-based oils. Probably just as good as Sno-Seal or anything else. Wouldn't dream of putting it on my nice leather jacket, but it worked on my boots.

Hey Joel.......good for you. As an ironic fact, I use Obenauff's LP grease as a lip balm when skiing. No more chapped lips! I got the idea from their website.
 
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D

Deleted member 16736

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Hey Joel.......good for you. As an ironic fact, I use Obenauff's LP grease as a lip balm when skiing. No more chapped lips! I got the idea from their website.

Living in AZ, you're probably going through the same thing I am: your leather dries out before you get to use it!

Burt's works well too. FYI.

I would definitely not treat my boots with Chap-Stick, however.
 

too much coffee

Practically Family
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Not too far from Spokane, WA
Yeah..........I have a very short wearing season. But I do wear some of my lighter leather when it's really warm.

There may be a glimmer of hope though. I'll probably be moving to Spokane, WA. by the end of the year.

Best regards, coffee
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
Yeah..........I have a very short wearing season. But I do wear some of my lighter leather when it's really warm.

There may be a glimmer of hope though. I'll probably be moving to Spokane, WA. by the end of the year.

Best regards, coffee

It's funny you say that, because i have been considering moving to Seattle just to wear my jackets and boots. Or just hang out with JC and talk about jackets.
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
Question for the Board: Does pigmenting leather give it some weather resistance? I can understand now why WWII A-2's were re-dyed during the war. If I had to do it again, I might have chosen one of John's pigment leather options.
 

JanSolo

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879
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Ever so sunny Westphalia, Germany
Does pigmenting leather give it some weather resistance?
It really depends on the thickness of the spray finish. Some modern repros (i.e. G&B horsehide A2) look and feel like they have been covered with matt plastic whereas Goodwear's aniline dyed hides reveal every pore and follicle of the skin.
I would say that pigmenting does provide a certain weather resistance but it won't make it water-proof. Especially aniline dyed hides will be affected by rain.
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
It really depends on the thickness of the spray finish. Some modern repros (i.e. G&B horsehide A2) look and feel like they have been covered with matt plastic whereas Goodwear's aniline dyed hides reveal every pore and follicle of the skin.
I would say that pigmenting does provide a certain weather resistance but it won't make it water-proof. Especially aniline dyed hides will be affected by rain.

Thanks for the reply. I ordered Pecard's and I'll apply a light coat to my GW aniline-dyed jacket for some weather protection.
 

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