top hats. the right way

[armod]

there are so many different ways that top hats are seen these days it's hard to know what a reliable source is for finding the correct proportions.

Is it a matter of personal taste or did the height and shape change during different fashions and periods?

how should one go about finding the right top hat without looking like a costume

or an unfortunate mistake

do the proportions and shapes/styles change with the various types (silk, felt, collapsible)?

also what would be the more appropriate occasions to wear one?

 

[metropd]

Different styles of top hats were worn at different periods. The standard height of a proper topper is 6 1/4 inches but can be a little shorter or taller. If you feel natural in a topper and have the right ensemble to wear it with, wear it as you please. You have one life, live it in style.

 

[Orsini]

Top hat was an early crash helmut.

 

[armod]

Top hat was an early crash helmut.

how did it work?
were they made of different materials?

 

[Charlie Huang]

It would not look like costume if you wear it appropriately at certain occasions with full morning dress (weddings, Royal Ascot, etc) or white tie.

The ones one ought to look for are vintage silk plush toppers but these are rare in sizes larger than 7 1/4 UK (and are more expensive the larger it gets). The other alternative is the modern melusine fur felt topper which can come in any size for the same price. Grey toppers only suitable for the races IMHO.

Crown heights; a matter of taste but anything lower than 5 1/2" enters the realm of dressage. The shape of the brim can make or break as well. A good curled brim looks amazing whilst a bad one looks like a fancy dress hat.

I would avoid wool felt toppers (too noticably cheap) or opera hats (only suitable for white tie).

Read my blog on the issue of buying one: http://charlesrupertdomeki.wordpress.com/2009/05/15/guide-to-buying-a-top-hat/

 

[armod]

would it be a faux pas to wear a silk non-collapsible black silk to the opera?

are they noticably different when worn?

 

[leo]

There is a neighborhood not far from where I live where you see just about any kind of headwear imaginable. Two days ago in the heat of the afternoon I passed a small group of men with rasta and watch caps and such and right in their midst was a big guy in sleeveless tee shirt and dirty camel colored felt top hat covered with lapel pins. Somehow it looked normal!

I was wearing a panama straw and felt like I was the one in costume. [huh]

Bill

 

[Charlie Huang]

would it be a faux pas to wear a silk non-collapsible black silk to the opera?

are they noticably different when worn?

No it won't be. The opera hat came about because there was no room to store many of them in the opera cloakroom hence their invention.

They do look different.

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Top hat was an early crash helmut.

I don't know about that but Bowlers/Derbies/Cokes certainly were. They were invented for mounted patrols who were charged with keeping poachers off a Lord's property. Their toppers were a hindrance in the forests and not helpful in a fall. In response, the Derby was designed strong enough to stand on and acted as streamlined head protection.

 

[Topper]

there are so many different ways that top hats are seen these days it's hard to know what a reliable source is for finding the correct proportions.

Correct proportion:
Internal = one that fits correctly, confonformed to head shaper.
External = fashion - as you like it.

Is it a matter of personal taste or did the height and shape change during different fashions and periods?

"or" is incorrect.

1) it is up to taste, so you can still get one bespoke made.
2) height & shape changed every season with fashion, then chenged furtherm the changed back and changed again etc.

Though nowdays "off the shelf" toppers are limited in style to commonly 5&1/4 or 6&1/4 crown heights.

how should one go about finding the right top hat without looking like a costume or an unfortunate mistake

1) Don't wear a costume
2) Get the hat to match the outfit.

do the proportions and shapes/styles change with the various types (silk, felt, collapsible)?

Silk and felt are "materials" collapsible is a type. But Yes they can all vary. At the same time, I can get a silk in the same style as a felt and same shape but just different materials.

Collapsible are more limited to satin weave silk or other satin fabric, if new. Older version used a ribbed silk, though others were made of plush.

If you really want something in a specific material and shape and type, then it is not always impossibly to make merely may be very expensive!

Toppers are available in: solid wood, leather, straw, wool felt, fur felt, silk plush, silk satin, long hair plush, and velour to name but a few.

also what would be the more appropriate occasions to wear one?

Formal occasions, are the last bastion for trditional wearing by general pubilc. e.g.Embassy Ball, Royal Ascot, Royal Garden Parties, Trooping the Colour, Weddings Otherwise, still worn in the trade by Doomen, Coachmen, and Funeral Directors, Circus Ringmaster.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Also, if you are a Cambridge MA, you could wear a top hat in black undress gown by virtue of right.