Thoughts about Japanese brands

[zebedee]

I really like some of the Japanese designs I've seen (the Switchyard Coat, for example), but the price isn't reasonable to me - there are other things that I'd rather spend the money on and there's an odd hint of auto-orientalism to the PR of Japanese brands at the higher end of the price scale. That's only my opinion, though, and I might feel differently if I were richer and skinnier.

 

[Will Zach]

^^
Most of their sales are to Asian customers (like 99% according to RMC store manager in Tokyo), hence the slim cuts. Not sure of the meaning of auto-orientalism, but if it means selling to Asians and lack of Western cuts, the clientele profile probably is to blame.

 

[zebedee]

^^
Most of their sales are to Asian customers (like 99% according to RMC store manager in Tokyo), hence the slim cuts. Not sure of the meaning of auto-orientalism, but if it means selling to Asians and lack of Western cuts, the clientele profile probably is to blame.

'Auto-orientalism' is an overused phrase, and has various connotations. It's really just a way in which some Asian/Eastern cultures can capitalise on what Western cultures are presumed to think of them as 'others' (once that's established)- for example, that Japanese-made things have some inherently better tailoring or aesthetic, justifying a higher price because Westerners presuppose some 'exquisiteness'. Think of it as a 'canny sale to an eager tourist' sort of thing. I don't consider it a bad thing.

I used to marvel at Western women getting 'elegant' qipao made when I lived in Shanghai (these dresses look great on Chinese women). You'd see the tailors wince microscopically as these sometimes relatively (but sometimes awesomely) massive foreigners would pour and corset themselves into a qipao and then yell about the fit. Being a very evil man, I'd whisper to one of the local female assistants: 'Sell her the table for her back'.

 

[Grayland]

I like Japanese brands as a medium or size 40 in Japanese clothing normally is shorter in length (body & sleeves). I see a lot of cool button up shirts or jackets on sites that show a model wearing a Medium/size 40 and he's 6'2, 170 lbs. I'm 5'9, 170 and buying those shirts means I have to have the sleeves shortened and I can't wear it untucked as it is too long - or I pay to have the body shortened. Still, I often buy used as some of the Japanese prices (new) are insane.

 

[Will Zach]

During my recent visit to the RMC store in Tokyo I noticed an M-65 - like repro field jacket for 60,000 yen. Japanese customers would be well-advised to buy the real McCoy (yes, I know, a bad pun) on eBay for 120 bucks. With the name tag and all. Regarding jackets, Japanese jackets in Shinki are pricewise in the Himel territory, so not outrageous at all. But this M-65 was crazy.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

It's interesting that some Japanese items appear to be outrageously expensive for what they are, like that RMC M65, but others are relative bargains.

The Nissan R 35 GTR is relatively expensive, but given how fast and fanatically well made it is, one could argue it is a fairly good deal. Seiko and Grand Seiko watches are another example. Some Grand Seikos are quite example, but many watch fanatics will point out that they are an incredible value for money compared to Swiss brands.

I don't think there is always a huge premium in terms of price for Japanese brands.

Many Japanese raw denim jeans have more features and better construction than US or European brands for less money and the same is true for Chambray shirts in many cases.

Certainly, some Japanese-made clothing is relatively expensive. Even I think some Freewheelers items are a bit much.

 

[Blackadder]

Is it really just Japan that has outrageously priced copy of classic items or do we fellow loungers just happen to look mostly at the Japanese brands? A YSL Hedi Slimane copy of the leather tog/Buco J-31 costs more than the FW. A Ralph Lauren black label J-24 repro costs as much as the RM if not more. A Rick Owens MA-1 costs USD 1000.
https://www.gq.com/story/is-this-4900-saint-laurent-perfecto-springs-must-have-jacket
BTW a basic Langlitz Columbia actually costs 357,500 yen in Japan compared to the RM Buco J-22's 264,000 yen and a LL Super Monza 192,500 yen compared to the 187,000 yen Addict Clothes Resistance. I am reading from the Club Harley Riders Jacket issue in which all the SRP are listed.
https://funq.jp/club-harley/article/525120/
The Japanese do value the imports more than their domestic brands.

 

[red devil]

Is it really just Japan that has outrageously priced copy of classic items or do we fellow loungers just happen to look mostly at the Japanese brands? A YSL Hedi Slimane copy of the leather tog/Buco J-31 costs more than the FW. A Ralph Lauren black label J-24 repro costs as much as the RM if not more. A Rick Owens MA-1 costs USD 1000.
https://www.gq.com/story/is-this-4900-saint-laurent-perfecto-springs-must-have-jacket
BTW a basic Langlitz Columbia actually costs 357,500 yen in Japan compared to the RM Buco J-22's 264,000 yen and a LL Super Monza 192,500 yen compared to the 187,000 yen Addict Clothes Resistance. I am reading from the Club Harley Riders Jacket issue in which all the SRP are listed.
https://funq.jp/club-harley/article/525120/
The Japanese do value the imports more than their domestic brands.

This

 

[Monitor]

I can safely say that I'm never again buying anything from RMC that's not leather.

The wool coat was okay, I didn't hate it, it fit well, but it definitely wasn't 600 GBP okay. The thing was Zara / H&M quality and that's at best. The thing was very light for a winter coat and the leather parts were abysmally badly cut and stitched.

Couldn't get it out of the house fast enough and was in the post office before my morning cup of coffee, how much I wanted to get rid of it. It was a very sour experience and at this point, I'm not even interested in looking at the RMC textile stuff anymore. That's an insane amount of money for such a mediocre product and without any exaggeration, it is a Zara grade piece.

The Iron Heart blanketed Lee debacle was also something I could've lived without... I was close to giving up on them as well after how, well, disappointing that jacket was in every way but luckily, I exchanged the jacket for a pair of 25oz jeans which really are otherworldly amazing.

I'm sure not all RMC textile stuff is bad and actually yeah, I know some is spectacular but in my limited experience, how much the quality between garments by the same maker varies just isn't worth the risk for me.

 

[ton312]

^^^Same. Mine is going back today too. Nothing anywhere near the quality of my railcoat. Not even close.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Reviving an old Japanese thread, in search of some intel on the Dapper brand. There was a jacket in Classified here I totally missed out.

FS: Dapper's (Japan) Grizzly Jacket 42

Guys, Amazing soft HH leather jacket with brown mouton. Shawl collar which is pretty rare for a grizz. Hookless zippers, overall great shape. Dapper's is a rad Japanese brand. Approx. Measurements: Chest: 23.25 Shoulder: 20 Sleeve: 25.25 Length: 25 Some more info here from a retailer...

www.thefedoralounge.com

How is this jacket now?

Dappers got the Trojan repro this winter. They did the Johnson Bros repro before. Seems like they are following the Freewheelers formula of limited quantity and jacking up the prices. How are their jackets? Made by Rainbow Country? Thanks!

50's Style Mortorcycle Leather Sports Jacket LOT1588 R.BLACK(茶芯) | dapper's

40's～50'ｓ某ブランドジャケットデザインベースに製作Dapper'ｓ初モーターサイクルジャケット変形Ｄポケットジッパースラッシュポケット袖口ストッパー忠実に再現ウエスタンヨークセンタープリーツアクションプリーツバックスタイル魅力的メインジッパー袖口ジッパーベル型TALONポケットジッパーTALON菱形七連鎖スナップボタンオリジナル同様UNITED CARR社仕様皮革イタリアマリアム社フルベジタブルタンニング馬革パラフィンカゼイン仕上げ縫製付属等徹底的に拘った渾身の一着

dappers.jp

 

[Blackadder]

Reviving an old Japanese thread, in search of some intel on the Dapper brand. There was a jacket in Classified here I totally missed out.

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-dappers-japan-grizzly-jacket-42.102909/

[/URL]

How is this jacket now?

Dappers got the Trojan repro this winter. They did the Johnson Bros repro before. Seems like they are following the Freewheelers formula of limited quantity and jacking up the prices. How are their jackets? Made by Rainbow Country? Thanks!

http://[URL]https://dappers.jp/leather-jacket/50s-style-mortorcycle-leather-sports-jacket-2/

[/URL]

Y'2 is the usual OEM for a lot of Japanese brands. My bet is on Y'2.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Reviving an old Japanese thread, in search of some intel on the Dapper brand. There was a jacket in Classified here I totally missed out.

http://[URL][URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-dappers-japan-grizzly-jacket-42.102909/

[/URL][/URL]

How is this jacket now?

Dappers got the Trojan repro this winter. They did the Johnson Bros repro before. Seems like they are following the Freewheelers formula of limited quantity and jacking up the prices. How are their jackets? Made by Rainbow Country? Thanks!

http://[URL][URL]https://dappers.jp/leather-jacket/50s-style-mortorcycle-leather-sports-jacket-2/

[/URL][/URL]

It wouldn't be Rainbow country. As mentioned, probably by Y2. As far as I know, the place that makes Rainbow Country does only Freewheelers otherwise.

You can also just look at the stitching really closely to tell the difference. None or the other Japanese brands are as neat in stitchwork as Rainbow Country/Freewheelers... not that most people care.

 

[Jasonissm]

Yesterday I had some discussions with my friends on if Rainbow Country manufactures leather jackets for Freewheelers. I know that on this forum some members like @dudewuttheheck and @red devil either has assumptions or confirmation on this issue but unfortunately I didn't find more detailed answers. I therefore consulted with a Freewheelers dealer. Here is our conversation and I think this would be an interesting read for the fellow members. I adjusted a bit on the English to make it easier to read:

H: "Eight" is special factory they can sew leather products and they have big connection to horsehide company.
They made leather products of "Old" Real Mccoy's. After the bankcruptcy of "Old" real mccoy's, "Eight" stopped to deal with them. Because "new" real mccoy's are yakuza (Note: Japanese mafia).
"Eight" was establised "Rainbow country" as their own brand. Toys mccoy, Pherrow's, Colimbo, the Few and Freewheelers were staffs from "old" real mccoy's. So they are good relationship with "Eight".
But each brands order "horsehide leather" that is different recipe. Similar is possible. But same is impossible.
If "eight" use same material to brands, that is bad factory. "Eight" keeps secret brand by brand so they can run long time.

Me: So does ‘eight’ sew leather products for Freewheelers?

H: Yes. Eight have to adjust and follow orders from brands. FW's order is so difficult and so complicated.

Me: I have another question: who makes the pattern for FW? Is this pattern maker a FW employee or Eight makes the pattern that required by FW?

H: FW have staffs of making pattern. FW doesn't use Eight's staff when they make pattern. FW's staffs are good at making pattern very much. This is the difference from other brands.
You can feel difference FW and other brands. Customers imagine easily same factory means same quality. But it's not truth
I think FW and other brands are completely different. It's only same 'factory', Products are completely different.
Knowledge of Vintage clothings and nice pattern makers makes difference.

I thought Rainbow Country manufactured for a few brands at different quality levels? Saw this post in the Freewheelers thread but unsubstantiated so not sure what to make of it. I've seen "Eight Leathers" jackets online on Mercari and such but the patterns do not look nearly as good as Rainbow Country to my eye, so I don't think it's the one he is referring to?

Reading it again, they don't claim that they sew for brands other than RC and FW actually...

 

[Blackadder]

I thought Rainbow Country manufactured for a few brands at different quality levels? Saw this post in the Freewheelers thread but unsubstantiated so not sure what to make of it. I've seen "Eight Leathers" jackets online on Mercari and such but the patterns do not look nearly as good as Rainbow Country to my eye, so I don't think it's the one he is referring to?

Reading it again, they don't claim that they sew for brands other than RC and FW actually...

That part must be a bit confusing to some. It talks about the relationship of various brands with the "old" RM regime. Many owners of the various brands came from the old RM. For example, FW's owner used to be the brain behind Joe McCoy the work wear line of RM. Toys McCoy is run by RM's old owner. Owner of the Few is a business partner and supplier.
The Few in New Zealand was the main supplier of leather jackets to the old RM at the very beginning. RM brought some of the leather work back to Japan later and that's when RC came into play. It makes no sense that the Few aka RMNZ a leather wear factory has to contract out. None of the Few jackets use shiniki hh btw.

Colimbo on the other hand may have the same suppliers as FW and not just leather. TM's leather may be made by RC as well but not sure. TM is tight with Buzz Ricksons I.e. Toyo Enterprise too so not too sure. I doubt RC is responsible for Pherrows jackets though.

There is another brand called EIGHT that makes jeans. RC is their own brand now so the Eight jacket you see may be from that other brand. AFAIK, they did not have their own brand until RC.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I‘ve been digging into anything Rainbow Country while I’m waiting for my first RC jacket and an used FW jacket. Shipping from Japan is taking forever.
From what I can gather online from third party sources, RC is like Goodwear (A2 guy but with other civilian repros) but RC has Aero‘s higher manufacturing capacities. It also seems that he finishes his own hides which is also what GW and Norshor do. But RC seems to do it at much bigger scale, aka making his own “Victory” like aniline horsehide in a leather secondary finishing shop called TMY. At least this is what I’m hoping for. Photos all look very promising. I’m hoping RC is refinishing the standard Shinki / other Himeji veg tan hides to CXL depth.
Also a lot of the lesser known Japanese clothing brands seems to either have their own small retail shop or is starting one. And at one time or another or still, is carrying A2 / G1 jackets from RC.
RC’s single rider Hercules also seemed to be sold under all these smaller brands at one time or another.
Another very interesting thing is that the Japanese brands seem to work on some type of “trunk show” system. Very cool. I wish I was just there two weeks ago as it seems that’s when all that was happening and they took orders for the coming delivery.
The most amazing thing is that it seems custom orders were possible at these in store pop ups and prices are very reasonable now given the current exchange rates. I believe my incoming RC jacket is exactly that, a custom jacket return, at the Barnstormer retail store. It has wacky / non stock measurements so it looks like a custom order job.
Anyways, everything I got so far is based on what I can find online. When the jackets arrive it would tell a much better story. Very excited about this.

 

[Jasonissm]

That part must be a bit confusing to some. It talks about the relationship of various brands with the "old" RM regime. Many owners of the various brands came from the old RM. For example, FW's owner used to be the brain behind Joe McCoy the work wear line of RM. Toys McCoy is run by RM's old owner. Owner of the Few is a business partner and supplier.
The Few in New Zealand was the main supplier of leather jackets to the old RM at the very beginning. RM brought some of the leather work back to Japan later and that's when RC came into play. It makes no sense that the Few aka RMNZ a leather wear factory has to contract out. None of the Few jackets use shiniki hh btw.

Colimbo on the other hand may have the same suppliers as FW and not just leather. TM's leather may be made by RC as well but not sure. TM is tight with Buzz Ricksons I.e. Toyo Enterprise too so not too sure. I doubt RC is responsible for Pherrows jackets though.

There is another brand called EIGHT that makes jeans. RC is their own brand now so the Eight jacket you see may be from that other brand. AFAIK, they did not have their own brand until RC.

Oh yeah, I do recall Colimbo having many items made by Rainbow Country including collaboration jackets as well as helmet bags all with the signature Rainbow Country "California Mfg." labels attached. Thanks for the info!

View attachment 452261 View attachment 452262 View attachment 452263

I‘ve been digging into anything Rainbow Country while I’m waiting for my first RC jacket and an used FW jacket. Shipping from Japan is taking forever.
From what I can gather online from third party sources, RC is like Goodwear (A2 guy but with other civilian repros) but RC has Aero‘s higher manufacturing capacities. It also seems that he finishes his own hides which is also what GW and Norshor do. But RC seems to do it at much bigger scale, aka making his own “Victory” like aniline horsehide in a leather secondary finishing shop called TMY. At least this is what I’m hoping for. Photos all look very promising. I’m hoping RC is refinishing the standard Shinki / other Himeji veg tan hides to CXL depth.
Also a lot of the lesser known Japanese clothing brands seems to either have their own small retail shop or is starting one. And at one time or another or still, is carrying A2 / G1 jackets from RC.
RC’s single rider Hercules also seemed to be sold under all these smaller brands at one time or another.
Another very interesting thing is that the Japanese brands seem to work on some type of “trunk show” system. Very cool. I wish I was just there two weeks ago as it seems that’s when all that was happening and they took orders for the coming delivery.
The most amazing thing is that it seems custom orders were possible at these in store pop ups and prices are very reasonable now given the current exchange rates. I believe my incoming RC jacket is exactly that, a custom jacket return, at the Barnstormer retail store. It has wacky / non stock measurements so it looks like a custom order job.
Anyways, everything I got so far is based on what I can find online. When the jackets arrive it would tell a much better story. Very excited about this.

I believe the Rainbow Country I bought was probably something similar. The measurements are way bigger than their standard measurements (even with their older and larger fitting patterns), as well as the sleeve being significantly shorter than expected. Which really sucks because the seller provided the measurements for what I think was the stock sizing (and in the more recent smaller fitting version too), probably just ripped it off the website and never measured himself is what I'm thinking.

 

[Blackadder]

View attachment 452261 View attachment 452262 View attachment 452263

I‘ve been digging into anything Rainbow Country while I’m waiting for my first RC jacket and an used FW jacket. Shipping from Japan is taking forever.
From what I can gather online from third party sources, RC is like Goodwear (A2 guy but with other civilian repros) but RC has Aero‘s higher manufacturing capacities. It also seems that he finishes his own hides which is also what GW and Norshor do. But RC seems to do it at much bigger scale, aka making his own “Victory” like aniline horsehide in a leather secondary finishing shop called TMY. At least this is what I’m hoping for. Photos all look very promising. I’m hoping RC is refinishing the standard Shinki / other Himeji veg tan hides to CXL depth.
Also a lot of the lesser known Japanese clothing brands seems to either have their own small retail shop or is starting one. And at one time or another or still, is carrying A2 / G1 jackets from RC.
RC’s single rider Hercules also seemed to be sold under all these smaller brands at one time or another.
Another very interesting thing is that the Japanese brands seem to work on some type of “trunk show” system. Very cool. I wish I was just there two weeks ago as it seems that’s when all that was happening and they took orders for the coming delivery.
The most amazing thing is that it seems custom orders were possible at these in store pop ups and prices are very reasonable now given the current exchange rates. I believe my incoming RC jacket is exactly that, a custom jacket return, at the Barnstormer retail store. It has wacky / non stock measurements so it looks like a custom order job.
Anyways, everything I got so far is based on what I can find online. When the jackets arrive it would tell a much better story. Very excited about this.

I love the Maroon colour HH they use on A-2. The depth is amazing but not all colour gets the same depth. Here is mine. Crappy photos due to the vastly inadequate camera on mobile phone back then.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rainbow-country-roughwear-23380-maroon.79694/
Here is their FB page but they rarely update it. I did get an answer to my query on FB from them.
https://www.facebook.com/people/Rainbow-Country/100057262976201/
I have been to Barnstomer a few times. Nice shop with lots of brands. Not easy to get to and it is in a small local supermarket/department store in Gotemba. Very small town with a big Premium Outlet 2 hours bus ride from Tokyo.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Oh yeah, I do recall Colimbo having many items made by Rainbow Country including collaboration jackets as well as helmet bags all with the signature Rainbow Country "California Mfg." labels attached. Thanks for the info!

I believe the Rainbow Country I bought was probably something similar. The measurements are way bigger than their standard measurements (even with their older and larger fitting patterns), as well as the sleeve being significantly shorter than expected. Which really sucks because the seller provided the measurements for what I think was the stock sizing (and in the more recent smaller fitting version too), probably just ripped it off the website and never measured himself is what I'm thinking.

From the photos I find, Rainbow Country sometimes hides their label inside the A2 pockets. Very discreet. Along with the old union labels. So it's very hard to tell since there are no labels where there normally is one.

They must run custom order events alongside those trunk shows / store pop ups. The car coat I got is tagged 38, but with super wacky measurements when compared to the stock size chart. And it was the only one so I figured it was a return from a custom order, like an Aero sale page jacket. One man's trash is another man's treasure. I hope it tips in my favor...

38 肩幅49cm 身幅54.5cm 着丈68cm 袖丈64cm

34---身幅51.0cm/着丈65.0cm/肩幅42.5cm/袖丈59.5cm
36---身幅53.0cm/着丈66.5cm/肩幅44.0cm/袖丈61.0cm
38---身幅55.0cm/着丈68.0cm/肩幅45.5cm/袖丈62.5cm
40---身幅57.0cm/着丈69.5cm/肩幅47.0cm/袖丈64.0cm
42---身幅59.0cm/着丈71.0cm/肩幅48.0cm/袖丈65.5cm
44---身幅61.0cm/着丈71.0cm/肩幅50.0cm/袖丈65.5cm

A lot of the retailers just copy and paste the measurements too. They carry way too many items for them to go through each one individually. This is where they could maybe install a new procedure to double check measurement before shipping to not piss off customers. It'd be another 10 minutes for the pick-packer but totally worth it.

I love the Maroon colour HH they use on A-2. The depth is amazing but not all colour gets the same depth. Here is mine. Crappy photos due to the vastly inadequate camera on mobile phone back then.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rainbow-country-roughwear-23380-maroon.79694/
Here is their FB page but they rarely update it. I did get an answer to my query on FB from them.
https://www.facebook.com/people/Rainbow-Country/100057262976201/
I have been to Barnstomer a few times. Nice shop with lots of brands. Not easy to get to and it is in a small local supermarket/department store in Gotemba. Very small town with a big Premium Outlet 2 hours bus ride from Tokyo.

That marron and that red brown is really nice. I think the red brown is the "Deadleaf" and the marron is RC's own #8.

Once I saw the mane mark and the underside of the hides that RC uses I am convinced. The only other aniline finish teacore leather out there is the CXL. But CXL needs the warm up time and Horween is less careful about the underside. The underside of RC's hides looks very clean. This tells me he pays a lot of attention to details. I hope I am right about these assumptions. To have a darkening patina aniline hide that shows teacore fade is almost impossible. Some of my CXL is actually not teacore but dyed through because Horween isn't so careful at keeping it teacore. So it's basically a darkened Badalassi with some stiffy wax. Really looking forward to RC's leather. The only thing is that he only does two colors every season right? So this coming season is just black and seal, very safe colors.

This is my patinaed CXL. Only the black one has teacore fade in combination with the darkening patina. The #8 only darkens and lightens patina, no teacore fade because it is dyed on the other side too - An overlook on Horween's part. Still cool. The difference is how the leather around the main zipper and bottom edges wears. I am hoping RC's leather is like the CXL but without the wax.

Yeah, these small shops don't get enough credit! I never venture outside the downtown core in Tokyo either. But next trip I definitely make it a trip to go through all these small shops. I think one of the main reason Freewheelers lucked out and blew up is because their Desolation Row store location. But the brands that didn't blow up isn't inferior. They do cool stuff just like FW but no luck because of their countryside locations. Small brands seems to only do one leather jacket per season and they are always cool and unique. But they never get any attention. The big money like Y2 and FC doesn't do anything interesting but gets all the business. Life is not fair. I will make it my goal to seek out every little indie jacket.

I am still on the fence about this Dappers Trojan. They did a Johnson Bros down to the label. But this Trojan just regular Dappers label. Makes me think they are trying to be like Freewheelers but actually more Bill Kelso Archive line. And BK archive line is a better deal than the Dappers Trojan. Hard to tell a lot of things just from photos. It'd be nice if I could be there and see it in their trunk shows. The idea of Y2 being the potential OEM factory for them didn't help either. Yeah it would be well made blah blah blah but no heart and soul so no. Although I am somewhat confused as the Trojan uses Myrayam horsehide.

Right now ¥180,000 = US$1,250. But unfortunately Aero took most of my jacket money for the year already with their recent discount... Can't win any bets against the house...

The very niche Japanese one off repros seems to fill the need. Down to the label and in different sizes and an actual wearable jacket vs the vintage.

 

[Jasonissm]

From the photos I find, Rainbow Country sometimes hides their label inside the A2 pockets. Very discreet. Along with the old union labels. So it's very hard to tell since there are no labels where there normally is one.

View attachment 452442

They must run custom order events alongside those trunk shows / store pop ups. The car coat I got is tagged 38, but with super wacky measurements when compared to the stock size chart. And it was the only one so I figured it was a return from a custom order, like an Aero sale page jacket. One man's trash is another man's treasure. I hope it tips in my favor...

38 肩幅49cm 身幅54.5cm 着丈68cm 袖丈64cm

34---身幅51.0cm/着丈65.0cm/肩幅42.5cm/袖丈59.5cm
36---身幅53.0cm/着丈66.5cm/肩幅44.0cm/袖丈61.0cm
38---身幅55.0cm/着丈68.0cm/肩幅45.5cm/袖丈62.5cm
40---身幅57.0cm/着丈69.5cm/肩幅47.0cm/袖丈64.0cm
42---身幅59.0cm/着丈71.0cm/肩幅48.0cm/袖丈65.5cm
44---身幅61.0cm/着丈71.0cm/肩幅50.0cm/袖丈65.5cm

A lot of the retailers just copy and paste the measurements too. They carry way too many items for them to go through each one individually. This is where they could maybe install a new procedure to double check measurement before shipping to not piss off customers. It'd be another 10 minutes for the pick-packer but totally worth it.



That marron and that red brown is really nice. I think the red brown is the "Deadleaf" and the marron is RC's own #8.

Once I saw the mane mark and the underside of the hides that RC uses I am convinced. The only other aniline finish teacore leather out there is the CXL. But CXL needs the warm up time and Horween is less careful about the underside. The underside of RC's hides looks very clean. This tells me he pays a lot of attention to details. I hope I am right about these assumptions. To have a darkening patina aniline hide that shows teacore fade is almost impossible. Some of my CXL is actually not teacore but dyed through because Horween isn't so careful at keeping it teacore. So it's basically a darkened Badalassi with some stiffy wax. Really looking forward to RC's leather. The only thing is that he only does two colors every season right? So this coming season is just black and seal, very safe colors.

This is my patinaed CXL. Only the black one has teacore fade in combination with the darkening patina. The #8 only darkens and lightens patina, no teacore fade because it is dyed on the other side too - An overlook on Horween's part. Still cool. The difference is how the leather around the main zipper and bottom edges wears. I am hoping RC's leather is like the CXL but without the wax.

View attachment 452443
View attachment 452444

Yeah, these small shops don't get enough credit! I never venture outside the downtown core in Tokyo either. But next trip I definitely make it a trip to go through all these small shops. I think one of the main reason Freewheelers lucked out and blew up is because their Desolation Row store location. But the brands that didn't blow up isn't inferior. They do cool stuff just like FW but no luck because of their countryside locations. Small brands seems to only do one leather jacket per season and they are always cool and unique. But they never get any attention. The big money like Y2 and FC doesn't do anything interesting but gets all the business. Life is not fair. I will make it my goal to seek out every little indie jacket.
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I am still on the fence about this Dappers Trojan. They did a Johnson Bros down to the label. But this Trojan just regular Dappers label. Makes me think they are trying to be like Freewheelers but actually more Bill Kelso Archive line. And BK archive line is a better deal than the Dappers Trojan. Hard to tell a lot of things just from photos. It'd be nice if I could be there and see it in their trunk shows. The idea of Y2 being the potential OEM factory for them didn't help either. Yeah it would be well made blah blah blah but no heart and soul so no. Although I am somewhat confused as the Trojan uses Myrayam horsehide.
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Right now ¥180,000 = US$1,250. But unfortunately Aero took most of my jacket money for the year already with their recent discount... Can't win any bets against the house...

The very niche Japanese one off repros seems to fill the need. Down to the label and in different sizes and an actual wearable jacket vs the vintage.

Wow that Dapper's Johnson looks really nice, love the back design especially! How do these brands license the original brand label, like how Real McCoy's does with Buco, very interesting. Would love to have a look at these in person, do these go through trunk shows only, have to try find a stockist to add to my itinerary!