Mr. Rover
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Well the fit of that jacket (Is that Menjou?) is only really typical for the earlier 30s, which has been rarer to find and my personal favorite period. The later 30s and throughout the early 50s, I see more and more drape suits, which aren't all that fitted in the chest at all, giving the appearance of a fuller chest and smaller waist. And being that he is a celebrity, chances are he is wearing a bespoke suit himself.
I would also say that bespoke or atleast more customized MTM is really the only way to go now for a great fit, but getting it isn't impossible. I was browsing the 30s Style web-site with the suits made by Okisaka and they are really quite beautiful suits, even the ones using modern fabrics (some are made of vintage).
Lighter fabrics lend themselves to certain looks, a la the Continental look. It's difficult to get that beautiful clean drape for a long time if that same fabric were used in full-cut 30s pants, which I have found with my linen suit that I got made last year.
The one problem I do have with fit is that since the armholes are lower and uncomfortable for any sort of desk work, people tend to wear them without jackets. Well, seeing as the fit model for many rtw designer suits are for skinnier, fit people, they design the pants to be a lower rise because, honestly, they look good on tall, thin people. Sans jacket and with a fitted shirt, it's a very slimming, flattering line for someone who is fit to begin with. But if you put on a jacket it will always seem to flare at the bottom, separating the top and bottom of the body in fit. Thats why the 30s-40s line is very clean; fitted jacket flowing straight into the pants, where the change in silhouette is from the shoulders to the hips and clean from the hips downward. The suit is really one object.
So, keeping that in mind, I'm sure a lot of designers are creating a great look for a shirt/pant combination, and the jacket sort of ruins the silhouette. You really need a shorter, tighter jacket to keep the silhouette clean so that the jacket really ends closer to the hip than mid-thigh, which seems to be what Thom Browne has done, or make the jacket longer i.e. tails or a morning coat.
But if you're trying to do reconstructive surgery to the person's body from the outside, which is why a lot of people turn to bespoke, you're out of luck with bespoke. It's just going to look like a barrel on two twigs. Since I'm a stick to begin with, aside from armholes, I think the new suit I bought from Ralph Lauren is gorgeous with a medium weight wool flannel (in the neighborhood of 11 to 13 oz. I think), even with the narrow trousers and lower rise.
I don't really understand the dislike of Thom Browne here- he makes a close-fitting, high-armholed jacket and high rise pants. You don't have to wear it like he does. If I could have the pants long enough to cover my socks but still have no break, and sleeves that hit my wristbones, I would wear Thom Browne's suits, and I think many people here could probably pull off that silhouette-it's made for a particular body type. Fletch should understandably not like Thom Browne- Thom Browne wasn't making it for him, he was making them for people that are shaped similarly to him.
I would also say that bespoke or atleast more customized MTM is really the only way to go now for a great fit, but getting it isn't impossible. I was browsing the 30s Style web-site with the suits made by Okisaka and they are really quite beautiful suits, even the ones using modern fabrics (some are made of vintage).
Lighter fabrics lend themselves to certain looks, a la the Continental look. It's difficult to get that beautiful clean drape for a long time if that same fabric were used in full-cut 30s pants, which I have found with my linen suit that I got made last year.
The one problem I do have with fit is that since the armholes are lower and uncomfortable for any sort of desk work, people tend to wear them without jackets. Well, seeing as the fit model for many rtw designer suits are for skinnier, fit people, they design the pants to be a lower rise because, honestly, they look good on tall, thin people. Sans jacket and with a fitted shirt, it's a very slimming, flattering line for someone who is fit to begin with. But if you put on a jacket it will always seem to flare at the bottom, separating the top and bottom of the body in fit. Thats why the 30s-40s line is very clean; fitted jacket flowing straight into the pants, where the change in silhouette is from the shoulders to the hips and clean from the hips downward. The suit is really one object.
So, keeping that in mind, I'm sure a lot of designers are creating a great look for a shirt/pant combination, and the jacket sort of ruins the silhouette. You really need a shorter, tighter jacket to keep the silhouette clean so that the jacket really ends closer to the hip than mid-thigh, which seems to be what Thom Browne has done, or make the jacket longer i.e. tails or a morning coat.
But if you're trying to do reconstructive surgery to the person's body from the outside, which is why a lot of people turn to bespoke, you're out of luck with bespoke. It's just going to look like a barrel on two twigs. Since I'm a stick to begin with, aside from armholes, I think the new suit I bought from Ralph Lauren is gorgeous with a medium weight wool flannel (in the neighborhood of 11 to 13 oz. I think), even with the narrow trousers and lower rise.
I don't really understand the dislike of Thom Browne here- he makes a close-fitting, high-armholed jacket and high rise pants. You don't have to wear it like he does. If I could have the pants long enough to cover my socks but still have no break, and sleeves that hit my wristbones, I would wear Thom Browne's suits, and I think many people here could probably pull off that silhouette-it's made for a particular body type. Fletch should understandably not like Thom Browne- Thom Browne wasn't making it for him, he was making them for people that are shaped similarly to him.