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Ah....thanks much. If that suit comes up for sale again I'll consider it.
Re: Labels - I just took another look at my dinner jacket and it has a white label with orange text saying "Tailored by Goodall" along the top of the collar label with "From the Genuine Cloth" along the bottom. I guess this means it is a pre-1944 item (?). Unfortunately, when I got it back from the tailor there was a brown stain about the size of a pencil eraser just below one of the bottom buttons. When I asked the tailor (who speaks very, very little English) about it he just shrugged with an "I have no idea where that came from" look. So....I might be trying that Oxi-Clean treatment myself. I also have a Goodall-Sanford Palm Beach suit that is not made out of Palm Beach cloth but is nice anyway. Both are unlined. Is the Palm Beach cloth comfortable? (I'm thinking specifically of trousers rubbing against bare thighs since it is kind of scratchy, imho.) Thanks!
The genuine cloth ceased being produced in 1954 from my sources. The orange writing was prior to the 50s that is for sure. The later labels had black text.
I had something similar happen with my white jacket. It was due to cigar ash for me. It will come out with the Oxyclean treatment.
Palm beach cloth is very comfortable. It is not extremely structured and should be just fine on your bare legs. It isn't all wool. The other fibers make it wear more comfortably.