THE MIDNIGHT BLUES COLLECTION — FIRST HAT OFF THE BLOCK!

[TheSocialHat]

THE MIDNIGHT BLUES COLLECTION — FIRST HAT OFF THE BLOCK!


Hello fellow Lounge members!

Following up on my recent posts about working with the vintage TONAK fur felt bodies I acquired from the historic Batsakes Hat Shop in Cincinnati, I wanted to share my latest finished hat and, as always, welcome your honest and constructive criticism.

After completing six hats from my Caribou Collection, I’ve moved on to something a little different: THE MIDNIGHT BLUES COLLECTION.

This is the first hat from that collection, made entirely by hand in my little workshop in Raleigh, North Carolina.

The inspiration comes from the classic American and European hat styles of the 1940s and 1950s. I wanted something understated, with a lower crown profile, a generous but balanced brim, and just enough ribbon detail to give it some individuality without overpowering the felt.

THE HAT SPECIFICATIONS:

• Felt: Vintage TONAK rabbit fur felt, midnight blue, dating back several decades.
• Size: 6 7/8 (US).
• Crown: 4-inch low-profile teardrop, hand-shaped.
• Brim: 2¾ inches.
• Ribbon: Vintage charcoal grey grosgrain.
• Bow: Handcrafted grosgrain bow with a contrasting olive, white, and blue striped ribbon hook.
• Construction: Traditionally hand-blocked, shaped, ironed, and finished using vintage hatmaking tools and equipment.

One of the things I particularly enjoyed about this hat was working with the contrast between the deep midnight blue felt and the charcoal grey grosgrain. Depending on the lighting, the felt takes on slightly different blue tones.

The striped ribbon hook was my attempt to introduce a subtle vintage-inspired detail without making the bow too busy.

As some of you know from my previous posts, I’ve spent more than 25 years working in the headwear industry, including opportunities to visit and work alongside some remarkable hat manufacturers and craftspeople throughout Europe and the United States.

However, I certainly don’t consider myself a master hatmaker. I’m still learning, experimenting, making mistakes, correcting them, and enjoying every minute of the process.

I’m particularly grateful for what I’ve learned over the years from Grant Sergott of Optimo Hatworks in Bisbee, Arizona, and the late Gus Miller of Batsakes Hat Shop in Cincinnati.

Now, I’d genuinely appreciate the Lounge’s opinions!

What do you think of the crown-to-brim proportions? Does the 4-inch teardrop work with the 2¾-inch brim?

How about the charcoal grey ribbon against the midnight blue felt? And does the striped ribbon hook complement the bow, or would you have approached it differently?

I’m especially interested in hearing from the experienced hatmakers and collectors here. Please don’t hold back on constructive criticism. That’s one of the reasons I enjoy sharing my work with this community.

For me, there’s something very satisfying about taking a vintage fur felt body that has been sitting unfinished for decades and finally giving it a new life.

The felt may be vintage, but the hat’s story is just beginning.

Handcrafted in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA.

Thank you all for following along with my hatmaking adventures!


Hat People Always Shine!

 

[belfastboy]

THE MIDNIGHT BLUES COLLECTION — FIRST HAT OFF THE BLOCK!


Hello fellow Lounge members!

Following up on my recent posts about working with the vintage TONAK fur felt bodies I acquired from the historic Batsakes Hat Shop in Cincinnati, I wanted to share my latest finished hat and, as always, welcome your honest and constructive criticism.

After completing six hats from my Caribou Collection, I’ve moved on to something a little different: THE MIDNIGHT BLUES COLLECTION.

This is the first hat from that collection, made entirely by hand in my little workshop in Raleigh, North Carolina.

The inspiration comes from the classic American and European hat styles of the 1940s and 1950s. I wanted something understated, with a lower crown profile, a generous but balanced brim, and just enough ribbon detail to give it some individuality without overpowering the felt.

THE HAT SPECIFICATIONS:

• Felt: Vintage TONAK rabbit fur felt, midnight blue, dating back several decades.
• Size: 6 7/8 (US).
• Crown: 4-inch low-profile teardrop, hand-shaped.
• Brim: 2¾ inches.
• Ribbon: Vintage charcoal grey grosgrain.
• Bow: Handcrafted grosgrain bow with a contrasting olive, white, and blue striped ribbon hook.
• Construction: Traditionally hand-blocked, shaped, ironed, and finished using vintage hatmaking tools and equipment.

One of the things I particularly enjoyed about this hat was working with the contrast between the deep midnight blue felt and the charcoal grey grosgrain. Depending on the lighting, the felt takes on slightly different blue tones.

The striped ribbon hook was my attempt to introduce a subtle vintage-inspired detail without making the bow too busy.

As some of you know from my previous posts, I’ve spent more than 25 years working in the headwear industry, including opportunities to visit and work alongside some remarkable hat manufacturers and craftspeople throughout Europe and the United States.

However, I certainly don’t consider myself a master hatmaker. I’m still learning, experimenting, making mistakes, correcting them, and enjoying every minute of the process.

I’m particularly grateful for what I’ve learned over the years from Grant Sergott of Optimo Hatworks in Bisbee, Arizona, and the late Gus Miller of Batsakes Hat Shop in Cincinnati.

Now, I’d genuinely appreciate the Lounge’s opinions!

What do you think of the crown-to-brim proportions? Does the 4-inch teardrop work with the 2¾-inch brim?

How about the charcoal grey ribbon against the midnight blue felt? And does the striped ribbon hook complement the bow, or would you have approached it differently?

I’m especially interested in hearing from the experienced hatmakers and collectors here. Please don’t hold back on constructive criticism. That’s one of the reasons I enjoy sharing my work with this community.

For me, there’s something very satisfying about taking a vintage fur felt body that has been sitting unfinished for decades and finally giving it a new life.

The felt may be vintage, but the hat’s story is just beginning.

Handcrafted in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA.

Thank you all for following along with my hatmaking adventures!


Hat People Always Shine!

It looks great. I do like the ribbon colour with the blue felt. Personally, I prefer a much higher crown. Not a fan of the low crown, wider brim look. Will you put in a liner? Also, a huge pet peeve of mine is the use of Petersahm ribbon on a men's hat. In this smaller size is this hat intended for a lady? Traditionally, mens hats have always sported woven edge grosgrain not the Petersham scalloped edges.

 

[jlee562]

There's something slightly off about the proportions I can't quite put my finger on. I think the ribbon is too wide for the crown height (or vice versa). I prefer a less flamboyant bow, but that's a personal choice and not a criticism of your ribbon work.

 

[TheSocialHat]

It looks great. I do like the ribbon colour with the blue felt. Personally, I prefer a much higher crown. Not a fan of the low crown, wider brim look. Will you put in a liner? Also, a huge pet peeve of mine is the use of Petersahm ribbon on a men's hat. In this smaller size is this hat intended for a lady? Traditionally, mens hats have always sported woven edge grosgrain not the Petersham scalloped edges.

Thank you very much for your thoughtful comments! I genuinely appreciate the constructive feedback, which is exactly why I enjoy sharing my work here on the Fedora Lounge!


Yes, this is intentionally a lower-crown hat. When working with these vintage felt bodies, I prefer to preserve as much of the original brim width as possible. I can always trim a brim down to someone’s preferred dimensions, but once that felt is cut, there’s no putting it back!


And yes, it will absolutely have a Batsakes Hat Shop liner, paying tribute to the historic shop where these beautiful vintage felts originated.


As for the size, this particular vintage hat body dictated what I could achieve. At 6 7/8, it will certainly serve someone with a smaller head. However, it wasn’t specifically intended as a ladies’ hat. The ribbon and bow are positioned on the left, following the traditional men’s hat convention.


Regarding the Petersham ribbon, I completely understand your point about the traditional woven-edge grosgrain used on classic men’s hats. The scalloped-edge Petersham is a deliberate personal touch of mine, inspired by something I learned from Grant Sergott of Óptimo Hatworks in Bisbee, Arizona. Grant calls these distinctive creations “Proud Bows,” and I’ve grown quite fond of incorporating that character into my own work.


I certainly respect the traditional approach, and that’s part of what makes hatmaking so fascinating to me. There’s room for historical accuracy, individual interpretation, and a little personal expression!


Again, thank you for taking the time to share your observations. I’m still learning, experimenting, and enjoying every minute at the workbench. That’s what makes this wonderful craft so rewarding!

 

[TheSocialHat]

There's something slightly off about the proportions I can't quite put my finger on. I think the ribbon is too wide for the crown height (or vice versa). I prefer a less flamboyant bow, but that's a personal choice and not a criticism of your ribbon work.

Thank you very much for your thoughtful and constructive feedback! I agree with your observation, although I still feel the hat has a certain charm and classic appeal.


I believe trimming the brim down to 2½ inches would create a better overall balance and bring the proportions more into harmony. And yes, I can certainly see how the wider ribbon might be a bit much for such a low crown.


As for the bow, that’s part of my personal interpretation, but I completely understand that it’s a matter of individual taste.


I genuinely appreciate your comments! This is exactly the kind of constructive criticism I was hoping for when sharing my work here. I’ll certainly keep your observations in mind as I head back to the workbench to make another hat later today!


After all, hatmaking is a continuous journey of learning, experimenting, and refining one’s craft.