The latest...

[Tiki Tom]

My first reaction to this photo gallery of "Best Dressed Men" was to roll my eyes and write them off as a bunch of wanna-be-cool posers. (I'm not into the untucked shirt under a sweater look, skinny trousers, or high-water trousers and tennis shoes with a tie. But maybe that's just me.) HOWEVER... giving it a second look, I couldn't help but notice how many elements of "the look" are indeed timeless classics that we spend a lot of time on in the lounge. Long coats, nice sports coats, even a few hats. In many cases, the innovation seems to be shaking up the mixture of colors or contrasting fabrics or elements of clothing. While some of the guys left me shaking my head, others seemed to lean heavily on the classics. Some, very much so. On the one hand I could say "there is really nothing new under the sun" or I could say "it's nice to see so many classic elements being used." What do you think? Or am I viewing the world through rose coloured glasses?

http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/g2594/exclusive-portraits-of-pitti-uomos-best-dressed-men/

 

[Mr. Pickett]

50's fashion is very in vogue at the moment. Mixing more contemporary styles with classics. Personally, I agree with you - they all look scruffy. I'm 20 and whenever I speak to people about dressing in a 1940's - 1950's style, this is what they first picture in their minds. Some are even a bit taken aback when I inform them what I actually mean that I want to wear a suit not just to work but all the time.

 

[Mathematicus]

I am myself very aware of the "exotic beasts" gathering at Pitti Uomo; in fact, i spent all my childhood in Florence (I come back often, also) and I got used to see any kind of outfit. There have been every year many gents who shined in the plethora of clochard-like (no offense for the poor clochards) hipsters. Every time they were wearing suits with human proportions (if not even golder-era), shaved or well-cared-bearded; anything of them proofed a clear knowledge of classical tailoring. The rest, sadly, is not worth ever looking at.
I can't understand why people keep to consider trainers as day- and city-wear. I think most of the horrors we see in those pictures would disappear if trainers never became acceptable outside gyms.
I'm very disappointed to see that Brunello Cucinelli looks again like he's wearing a rumpled and ill-fitting plastic costume. Probably the double-breasted is the least succesfull piece in modern tailoring: look at the ridiculously narrow overlap, full of creases, and the midget, atrophic lapel, the emblema of impotence.

 

[Metatron]

and the midget, atrophic lapel, the emblema of impotence.

This made me laugh. I am no fan of skinny lapels (nor of monstrously wide ones) but these aren't so bad I think. Kind of a medium width. Also he has his hands in his pockets which might make the jacket appear tighter than it actually is.

 

[Mathematicus]

This made me laugh. I am no fan of skinny lapels (nor of monstrously wide ones) but these aren't so bad I think. Kind of a medium width. Also he has his hands in his pockets which might make the jacket appear tighter than it actually is.

I was only exaggerating a bit! Well, I think I don't like Cucinelli's coat mostly because of the small overlap between the front quarters; it belittles the very generous V-shape that double breasted gives. Moreover the lapel, to me, lacks of that life, that widening effect we could see in almost any pre-2005 double breasted coat. It's too small compared with his shoulders!