The International Wool Felt Consortium

[PanosChris]

That's a beauty, Panos. They don't show up often enough.

Thanks Stefan.

Just to keep the thread hot. I think a have another one but no pics yet. You have some great examples of the brand yourself posted a few pages back (thanks!).

An old French lady will land here soon, stay tuned

 

[Daniele Tanto]

There are not only ancient wool or misto hats, but also ones that are recent enough to seem out of time
I had anticipated that I had a couple of curiosities relating to the end of hat making in Italy

It is a period in which these hats arrive on the market with something unexpected, the latest very interesting creations, of an industry in crisis, capable of inventing splendid hats with laughable marketing

Today it's the turn of a hat bearing the "Chicago 1930" brand, implying its similarity to gangster hats

Instead it is a typical Italian shaped hat with a medium crown and wide brims, typical of the 1950s

What is interesting and what made me buy it, despite it not being my size, is the rough and shiny Mixed felt (wool+fur) with a fantastic "honey" color, called on the paper label "anni 30 satinè"

The finishes are top notch and I'm not able to identify the hat factory that made this beautiful specimen during the season of decline.

In summary: "Chicago Years 1930 " measures 58 centimeters or 5 1/2 French Points and 7 1/4 in the States.

The measurements are: the hemmed brims of the same color as the felt, in constrast with the brown ribbon are 7 cm., the ribbon measures 4 cm. and the crown, fully open, is 15.5 centimeters

Meanwhile, the first one has finally arrived to show itself. The sequel will come soon

 

[PanosChris]

There are not only ancient wool or misto hats, but also ones that are recent enough to seem out of time
I had anticipated that I had a couple of curiosities relating to the end of hat making in Italy

It is a period in which these hats arrive on the market with something unexpected, the latest very interesting creations, of an industry in crisis, capable of inventing splendid hats with laughable marketing

Today it's the turn of a hat bearing the "Chicago 1930" brand, implying its similarity to gangster hats

Instead it is a typical Italian shaped hat with a medium crown and wide brims, typical of the 1950s

What is interesting and what made me buy it, despite it not being my size, is the rough and shiny Mixed felt (wool+fur) with a fantastic "honey" color, called on the paper label "anni 30 satinè"

The finishes are top notch and I'm not able to identify the hat factory that made this beautiful specimen during the season of decline.

In summary: "Chicago Years 1930 " measures 58 centimeters or 5 1/2 French Points and 7 1/4 in the States.

The measurements are: the hemmed brims of the same color as the felt, in constrast with the brown ribbon are 7 cm., the ribbon measures 4 cm. and the crown, fully open, is 15.5 centimeters

Meanwhile, the first one has finally arrived to show itself. The sequel will come soon

Great, Daniele! Nice to see those later ones in mixed felt finishes.

 

[PanosChris]

While waiting for Daniele's sequel, I found an old post of mine that belongs here too.

A British wool this time.
Attaboy in dark blue. I've traded that one with Steve (now what was I thinking...at least it's in good hands!)

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Less bold than the "Chicago 1930 Years" this is a humble hat with a fantastic "Misto" felt

It wasn't easy to convince the seller to send me a photo of the felt, his solution was drastic: take it or leave it

I took a chance and won

Charles Hatters measures 58 centimeters, or 5 1/2 French point, in the USA he measures 7 1/4. finished very well for the period and above all, unlike his brothers it is soft

This is the name of the felt (what I can really read): "M L Foca M. Marrone"

Soft and with a color that I have rarely seen in recent years

Of course, the production is Borsalino and probably in Stefan's annals there is evidence that there is a "Misto Marrone" and a "Foca" which is the felt finish.

The measurements are typical of an Italian hat from the Sixties/Seventies.
The brims are 4.8 cm. and the ribbon is 4cm high. while the open crown is 13 centimetres

All I have to do is look for one in my size to have this type of felt

Coming soon a pair of Borsalinos found on the market in precarious conditions
Thanks for your likes and kind words on the "Chicago satinè"

 

[PanosChris]

I've had this one on my list for ages till the right one appeared. It's actually on my possession for quite some time now but just managed to complete (nearly) the research it deserves and post all the materials here in several parts.

Part Ia, The Hat

Square crown or Cambridge bowler (similar to coach derby in US) in black wool. Late 1800s to early 1900s

Condition is great for its age. Size is a tight 55, but it fits (barely)

It's the lost twin brother of @steur hat posted here:

French Hats and makers.

Quite some time ago I bought my very first top hat and it happened to be a real early Gibus collapsible one: For the others have a look at Steve's homepage (https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com) or here e. g...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Same maker (unknown), different blocking (note the numbering) and sold by different retailers

This one was sold by chapelerie Hubert Plassard (more on that later). Came with original box

Box label with handwritten details of owner, address (just down the street from store's location actually) and delivery instructions (I think)

*to be continued (wait for it)

 

[PanosChris]

Part Ib

Liner has elements from the Val de Marne blason: the sun and the Motto: Labor, pax, libertas

Val de Marne

This could narrow down the maker to the Grand Paris Metropolis. However in my experience liner logos on those old ones are often misleading and serve only marketing purposes.

Sometime during its 120 years lifetime it ended up in Italy, before coming my way.

As an additional bonus it came with ribbon protector

Luckily it wasn't worn much and was stored properly. A time capsule!

*to be continued

 

[PanosChris]

Part II, The Style

The square crown bowler was very popular at the turn of the 20th century in Europe and gained its reputation in US soon after.

Unfortunately only a handful of examples was found and shown in FL throughout the years by past members mostly.

The particular style was mainly favored by the young guys of the era wanting a less formal top hat for daytime. With popularity growing fast it soon expanded to most age groups

No surprise Sir Winston Churchill himself was a fan. Here, sporting one on 1899 in his mid 20s

Well if Churchill approved, what else do you need? Fine, icing on the cake a 1896 footage (AI enhanced) from Lyon! You can appreciate several guys sporting it while playing
jeu provençal (French version of boules)

I wonder how many of those fellas did actually buy their hat from the exact same store? (was located in Lyon as well)

*to be continued

 

[PanosChris]

Part IIIa, The Store

Plassard was a hat and shoe store for the elegant man (as written on facade). Located on 1 Rue de la Barre in Lyon

Storefront drawing

Examples of souced hats (sold by Plassard) have been found and shown in FL in the past for brands like Mossant (mainly post war ones)

From the 1900 catalog. Chapelier spécialiste

Perhaps in one of the rest pages the square bowlers make their presence!

Rue de la Barre

*to be continued

 

[PanosChris]

Part IIIb

The store survived the WWII and Ads can be found in several cultural event brochures throughout the decades

In the '20s

'50s

'70s

Eventually it closed it's doors in 1996

*to be continued

 

[PanosChris]

Part IV, The Man

Hubert-Philippe Plassard was an active and well respected member of his community. A fair amount of documents showed up during my research

Besides serving the community and promoting his store, monsieur Plassard was also interested in... gardening! A man of good taste to say the least

Unfortunately he passed away later that year (1912)

And an advertising patent from 1906 (could belong to another person, though I wouldn't be surprised if not)

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

*the END

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Part IV, The Man

Hubert-Philippe Plassard was an active and well respected member of his community. A fair amount of documents showed up during my research
View attachment 563980 View attachment 563981
Besides serving the community and promoting his store, monsieur Plassard was also interested in... gardening! A man of good taste to say the least View attachment 563982 View attachment 563983 View attachment 563984
View attachment 563990 View attachment 563991

Unfortunately he passed away later that year (1912)
View attachment 563988
And an advertising patent from 1906 (could belong to another person, though I wouldn't be surprised if not) View attachment 563989

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

*the END

Fantastic piece of research and documentation, Panos. This is the stuff that keeps me wanting to learn more.

 

[steur]

Part IV, The Man

Hubert-Philippe Plassard was an active and well respected member of his community. A fair amount of documents showed up during my research
View attachment 563980 View attachment 563981
Besides serving the community and promoting his store, monsieur Plassard was also interested in... gardening! A man of good taste to say the least View attachment 563982 View attachment 563983 View attachment 563984
View attachment 563990 View attachment 563991

Unfortunately he passed away later that year (1912)
View attachment 563988
And an advertising patent from 1906 (could belong to another person, though I wouldn't be surprised if not) View attachment 563989

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

*the END

Wow! That is a staggering amount of research, Panos. Great job and nice to see one of the twins did well for himself. Seems like mine has been sleeping rough.
Peculiar for our modern eyes to see how much fun these guys seem to have playing boules.

 

[Rmccamey]

Amazing research. Thanks for sharing this wonderful history with us.

Part II, The Style

The square crown bowler was very popular at the turn of the 20th century in Europe and gained its reputation in US soon after. View attachment 563940 View attachment 563942 View attachment 563943
View attachment 563941 Unfortunately only a handful of examples was found and shown in FL throughout the years by past members mostly.

The particular style was mainly favored by the young guys of the era wanting a less formal top hat for daytime. With popularity growing fast it soon expanded to most age groups View attachment 563945 View attachment 563946 View attachment 563947 View attachment 563948 View attachment 563944
No surprise Sir Winston Churchill himself was a fan. Here, sporting one on 1899 in his mid 20s View attachment 563954
Well if Churchill approved, what else do you need? Fine, icing on the cake a 1896 footage (AI enhanced) from Lyon! You can appreciate several guys sporting it while playing
jeu provençal (French version of boules)

I wonder how many of those fellas did actually buy their hat from the exact same store? (was located in Lyon as well)

*to be continued

 

[Rmccamey]

...and what an amazing hat, too! I hope you have a chance to wear it some over the holiday season.

I've had this one on my list for ages till the right one appeared. It's actually on my possession for quite some time now but just managed to complete (nearly) the research it deserves and post all the materials here in several parts.

Part Ia, The Hat

Square crown or Cambridge bowler (similar to coach derby in US) in black wool. Late 1800s to early 1900s
View attachment 563926 View attachment 563927 View attachment 563928 View attachment 563930 View attachment 563931
Condition is great for its age. Size is a tight 55, but it fits (barely)

It's the lost twin brother of @steur hat posted here:

French Hats and makers.

Quite some time ago I bought my very first top hat and it happened to be a real early Gibus collapsible one: For the others have a look at Steve's homepage (https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com) or here e. g...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Same maker (unknown), different blocking (note the numbering) and sold by different retailers View attachment 563932
This one was sold by chapelerie Hubert Plassard (more on that later). Came with original box View attachment 563933
Box label with handwritten details of owner, address (just down the street from store's location actually) and delivery instructions (I think) View attachment 563934

*to be continued (wait for it)

 

[BobHufford]

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed this mini series that the hat inspired me to do, as I did enjoy the hunt and consequent research

Fantastic hat and impressive research Panos! Thanks for sharing it with us.

 

[steur]

Recent woolfelt survivor. Recent in the sense that I only got it last week. The hat itself is likely pre-war.
Eichenberger homburg in black. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and the substantial crown at 11.5cm at the center dent. Weighs 165 grams, so as expected from a woolfelt on the heavier side. Well made hat, but very soft. It used to have a liner, but that is gone. The label doesn't ring a bell, but it suggests that it is actually either a French or Swiss made hat.

 

[PanosChris]

Recent woolfelt survivor. Recent in the sense that I only got it last week. The hat itself is likely pre-war.
Eichenberger homburg in black. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and the substantial crown at 11.5cm at the center dent. Weighs 165 grams, so as expected from a woolfelt on the heavier side. Well made hat, but very soft. It used to have a liner, but that is gone. The label doesn't ring a bell, but it suggests that it is actually either a French or Swiss made hat.

Nice catch, Stefan! Looks in great condition too. Thankfully they are still out there

 

[steur]

Nice catch, Stefan! Looks in great condition too. Thankfully they are still out there

Thanks, Panos. They are there, but tough to recognize.

 

[mayserwegener]

Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden, "Küssnacht" "Tell", 57 cm, Wool possibly 1930s. This Soft Felt was most likely sourced and could have been made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. The Liner is extremally light weight so very delicate. I found this Wool Soft Felt back in March 2023.

Open Crown