The International Wool Felt Consortium

[Daniele Tanto]

Panos ask my contribution to this thread. Here we are
We start the presentation with two hats that look like they were made by the same manufacturer and both are more wool than fur

No label under the sweatband helps us understand, only the liners speak a little.

"Extra Fine" size is 57 centimeters

The shape is that of the Italian hats of the 30s and 40s, the components are those of the period, but the fact that both are preformed makes me doubtful.

This one has a soft heather felt with a ribbon made of woven felt, already seen before

The workmanship is accurate even if the materials are quite average.
These are the measures. the brims measure 6.5cm and the crown, which has stitching on each side, is 10.5cm at its lowest point.



I have included in the description all the photographs of the details to show the style of the graphics and lettering that is that of before the Second World War

Here is the first mystery of the lots without a know brand

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Second of this raw

I thought that this and the brown one are from the same manufacturer for the shape, components and some construction details. Maybe I was misled by the "La Moda" shop that sold them.

"La Gran Marca - Zeus" size 57 centimeters.

The wool felt is heavily sprinkled with shellac and keeps the black felt of medium consistency very taut

This too is preformed with the same characteristics as the "Extra Fine".

The measures are as follows; the brims are 6.5cm, the crown at the lowest point is 10.5cm and the ribbon is 2.5cm.
Very well finished, it still has the basting stitches having remained in the warehouse for at least seventy years.



This too has no label under the sweatband and therefore only the lining and details of the interior speaks for it.

The characteristics are those of Italian hats made in the thirties and forties, but its shape made in the hat factory leaves me some doubts.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Here we have one of the "mysteries" of this findim which most of the hats are made of wool or a part of them

The hat has a beautiful felt, "silky" like some French Thibets from the 1930s that I recently found

The indications on who could have produced it are scarce, if not the lining bears clearly visible two "Deers".

We can therefore infer that this is an unbranded and unlabeled "Cappellificio Cervo" product

The hat has been preformed like yesterday's and, personal opinion, is younger than his cronies with the same shape.

I summarize a hat dating back to the 1950s, these are the measurements: the raw brim is 6 cm and the crown at its lowest point is 9.5 cm and the ribbon is 2 cm high.

Finished with good quality, it has its strong point in the black and silky felt

This visible "mistery" hat is one of the examples of the trade war waged by the major Italian producers to take away space for small manufacturers, but the story is long and complex to tell.
Let's enjoy this beauty

 

[Daniele Tanto]

This is a mixed felt where wool is presenta ta least at 50%
The surprises begin with a hat that has all the requisites for being old, except the brims which are incredibly short.

"Extra - Tirso" size 58 centimeters in a plum colored felt and made of wool and fur with a touch that I often found in Italian and French hats from before World War II.

Let's talk about the brims that I doubt could be that short in the 30's and 40's, I've seen at minimum 5cm in hats where they were always up.

It is extremely malleble and has a fine backbow and internal finish.

It has a brand "Qualità Prima Extra" I never see

The name of the maker or the type of hat is "Tirso" a small river in Sardinia or the sacred Thyrsus was a ritual stick attributed to the Greek god Dionysus and his followers, satyrs and maenads. Of various wood, but thicker than dogwood.

From the lettering and brand stamping it seems really an old hat

These are the measures: the brims are 4 cm., the ribbon, with backbow is 4.5 cm and the minimum height of the crown is 11 cm.

I tried to imagine the hat with a couple of cm. plus in the brims and it would have been different, if they were cut to make it palatable, the job was done carefully

This is one of the mysteries of this find and the pity is that it would also fit on my head...

 

[Daniele Tanto]

This Italian hat is my favorite, perhaps because it is older than the writer
We have little news about this black hat from the thirties

Someone threw the liner in the garbage and no indication is present for the lack of a paper label

Velour, as it is called on the sweatband, size 58 centimeters

The shapes and finishes, see the sweatband with "inlays" are those of a hat made about a hundred years ago

Its peculiarity is the black felt, classified as velour which has a very low fur and an exceptional malleability

In the mixture of felt there is certainly a part of wool and probably silk because the consistency and luster are those of some women's hats of the period

As I mentioned in the presentation of this lot, some hats are mysteries, also because their dating is at least fifty years long. This too was sold in a tiny town of Pegognaga, as evidenced by the brand of the shop

These are its measurements: the brims are at 6.3 cm, the ribbon is at 5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 11.5 centimeters.
This hat, as well as the one called "Extra - Tirso" are the adorable puzzles that are found every now and then and make collectors spend a few moments of happiness

 

[PanosChris]

This is a mixed felt where wool is presenta ta least at 50%
The surprises begin with a hat that has all the requisites for being old, except the brims which are incredibly short.

"Extra - Tirso" size 58 centimeters in a plum colored felt and made of wool and fur with a touch that I often found in Italian and French hats from before World War II.

Let's talk about the brims that I doubt could be that short in the 30's and 40's, I've seen at minimum 5cm in hats where they were always up.

It is extremely malleble and has a fine backbow and internal finish.

It has a brand "Qualità Prima Extra" I never see

The name of the maker or the type of hat is "Tirso" a small river in Sardinia or the sacred Thyrsus was a ritual stick attributed to the Greek god Dionysus and his followers, satyrs and maenads. Of various wood, but thicker than dogwood.

From the lettering and brand stamping it seems really an old hat

These are the measures: the brims are 4 cm., the ribbon, with backbow is 4.5 cm and the minimum height of the crown is 11 cm.

I tried to imagine the hat with a couple of cm. plus in the brims and it would have been different, if they were cut to make it palatable, the job was done carefully

This is one of the mysteries of this find and the pity is that it would also fit on my head...

This Italian hat is my favorite, perhaps because it is older than the writer
We have little news about this black hat from the thirties

Someone threw the liner in the garbage and no indication is present for the lack of a paper label

Velour, as it is called on the sweatband, size 58 centimeters

The shapes and finishes, see the sweatband with "inlays" are those of a hat made about a hundred years ago

Its peculiarity is the black felt, classified as velour which has a very low fur and an exceptional malleability

In the mixture of felt there is certainly a part of wool and probably silk because the consistency and luster are those of some women's hats of the period

As I mentioned in the presentation of this lot, some hats are mysteries, also because their dating is at least fifty years long. This too was sold in a tiny town of Pegognaga, as evidenced by the brand of the shop

These are its measurements: the brims are at 6.3 cm, the ribbon is at 5 cm. and the lowest point of the crown is at 11.5 centimeters.
This hat, as well as the one called "Extra - Tirso" are the adorable puzzles that are found every now and then and make collectors spend a few moments of happiness

Great additions, Daniele! Many thanks! Great to see together all these wool and wool/fur mixtures in different finishes. Especially these last two are truly fantastic.

 

[glider]

Does anyone know of a simple way to tell if a hat is fur or wool felt? I mean when there are no markings, and the hat feels good. Dobbs for instance has made their 5th Ave with wool and fur and I have a few that don't say anything. I have handled hats that really felt good that were wool felt and fur felt hats that were a little coarse so I obviously can't tell the difference by feel.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

And again: Remember that one (on it's way to Panos)
1930's German Lords hat in blue-grey wool felt:
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden - "Tell" mark; "Küßnacht" model

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

And second for today:
Black Homburg: Rival - Gerardo Riva & C.
One great example from Monza
- as Daniele has pointed out several times -
the center of the Italian wool felt hat industry!

 

[PanosChris]

And second for today:
Black Homburg: Rival - Gerardo Riva & C.
One great example from Monza
- as Daniele has pointed out several times -
the center of the Italian wool felt hat industry!

And again: Remember that one (on it's way to Panos)
1930's German Lords hat in blue-grey wool felt:
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden - "Tell" mark; "Küßnacht" model

Matt, fantastic woolies!!! Especially the blue upbrim

 

[steur]

And again: Remember that one (on it's way to Panos)
1930's German Lords hat in blue-grey wool felt:
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden - "Tell" mark; "Küßnacht" model

Stellar hat, Matt. Love it.

 

[steur]

No brand woolfelt lords hat in black. Better would be to call it an upbrim soft felt hat. French manufacture, judging by the size label (and the country where I got it from). I find these older woolfelt survivor hats hard to resist. Overwelt curled brim at 5cm and crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Failry light for a woolfelt at 116 grams. These twisted wind cords we find only on older hats.

 

[PanosChris]

Great old soft wool hat, Stefan! I am partial for this upbrim/transitional style!

 

[steur]

Great old soft wool hat, Stefan! I am partial for this upbrim/transitional style!

Thanks, Panos. It is very attractive style for sure.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Panos has asked me to also copy and paste here the other Woolies that I had previously posted elsewhere and which are now in his hands. Here we are:

1. black "Esperazano" wool felt fedora from Esperaza, which is together
with the whole Aude Valley region the French centre of wool hat industry.
The condition is not the best, but it hints at the class of wool felt hat production in the region:
All components - inside and out - are of excellent quality and great workmanship!

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

2. Hall & Co. London expressly made for Sools Paris:
Wonderful, thick but soft and in addition heathered fur felt (according to sweat),
but I think Panos is right wanting me to repost it: Probably a mix with a good bit of wool.
The hat is made in England, but in my opinion - as shown - clearly made
for the French market (right down to the size labels).
With this one, the size annoys me the most, but with Panos it's in good hands!

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

And 3.: black "Colonia" (= Köln City) made of a lovely wool felt with back bow.
This is an unknown (to me) brand we don't know anything about it - except:
The paper and size label is the same as on J.A.Seidl so probably the same (unknown) source,
which apparently made wonderful wool felt hats of really good, if not excellent, quality.
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

 

[steur]

And 3.: black "Colonia" (= Köln City) made of a lovely wool felt with back bow.
This is an unknown (to me) brand we don't know anything about it - except:
The paper and size label is the same as on J.A.Seidl so probably the same (unknown) source,
which apparently made wonderful wool felt hats of really good, if not excellent, quality.
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

Well, it certainly doesn't hurt to see these again, Matt. Beautiful hats, all three of them.

 

[steur]

Also one that has been posted before, but not in this woolfelt thread. Thibet bowler in black. No labels inside the hat, but a size 56 with the brim at 5cm. Made for Baronnier of Nancy, France. Thibet is a brand name made by Ecuyer&Thomas. The details of this hat are wonderful, like the super tight d'Orsay curl. The felt is woolfelt however, so not as smooth a finish one would like.

Here's a pic of the shop it was sold from. Couldn't find any more history of the shop right away.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Panos has asked me to also copy and paste here the other Woolies that I had previously posted elsewhere and which are now in his hands. Here we are:

1. black "Esperazano" wool felt fedora from Esperaza, which is together
with the whole Aude Valley region the French centre of wool hat industry.
The condition is not the best, but it hints at the class of wool felt hat production in the region:
All components - inside and out - are of excellent quality and great workmanship!

Also one that has been posted before, but not in this woolfelt thread. Thibet bowler in black. No labels inside the hat, but a size 56 with the brim at 5cm. Made for Baronnier of Nancy, France. Thibet is a brand name made by Ecuyer&Thomas. The details of this hat are wonderful, like the super tight d'Orsay curl. The felt is woolfelt however, so not as smooth a finish one would like.

Here's a pic of the shop it was sold from. Couldn't find any more history of the shop right away.

As an addition to my own post and to Stefans fantastic Tibet Bowler:
The whole Aude Valley region has been the centre of French wool hat production
- including Jean Bourrel Manufacture De Chapeaux in Quillan,
which was responsible for the "Thibet" brand.
https://musee-chapellerie.fr/en/a-little-history/