The Holy Grail of Suits

[MK]

bad move

Thank you for your best wishes, Zohar! Too bad they were offered so carelessly:
.........
You can quit your griping, now, Zohar. Isn't that a relief?

Be rude to my bartenders like that again, and you will find yourself suspended.

 

[Veronica Parra]

Be rude to my bartenders like that again, and you will find yourself suspended.

Nice to see you too, MK.

How was the QM? Can't wait to see the photos.

Good luck purchasing that suit now that you've posted it here before the auction was over, Veronica.

And what does one do if the bartender himself was being a wiseacre? Furthermore, he and I had gotten over it. Why not do the same? Put up your feet and bask in the glow of a great weekend. You deserve it.

 

[shamus]

looking at both suits, I can't understand why they have the pockets on the outside. All that work and they take the easy way out with pockets on the outside. The vest doesn't have them exposed... so why does the suit? It takes away the sleekness of it for me.

Why did they make them like that?

 

[Wild Root]

Those pockets are known as ?¢‚Ǩ?ìPatch Pockets?¢‚Ǩ? it was a style at that time and continued into the 40?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s and 50?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s. It was some what a sporty look. Watch some movies of James Stewarts and you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ll see him wear them. I my self love this look! It?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s not a cop out on quality at all, it?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s really hard to make them correctly! I had to twist the arm of a tailor to have him make me a suit with them. The top stitch on the outer edge of the pockets had to be hand done. It?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s a sign of true tailoring. Have you ever seen "Patch Pockets" with a pleat in the middle? Those are known as Valentino pockets and I wouldn't say those are easy to make in the least! In those days, style was everything.

Cheers,

=WR=

PS. This catalog page has one suit with a pleated patch pocket. Would you say this is a corner cutter?

 

[riosfernando]

A helpful chart Wild Root

Here is a smart chart to see some of the greatest belted back coat, vest and pant designs offered by some tailors of the 30?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s.

Enjoy.

[/QUOTE]

Excellent chart! This chart and a good taylor is all that I need. Where you get it? Can we have a copy?:fedora:

 

[shamus]

PS. This catalog page has one suit with a pleated patch pocket. Would you say this is a corner cutter?

Thanks for the photos.

 

[BellyTank]

More Backs...

...just for the record...

B
T

 

[Veronica Parra]

Thanks, BellyTank ... great images from Germany!

German tailors were especially fond of yoked backs, including what we now call a "western yoke" (with scalloped points), on their jackets and overcoats. In Chile, I found a lot of imported vintage from pre-WWII Germany. Yoked backs were everywhere, especially on double-breasted wool overcoats with half-belts.

 

[BellyTank]

Vintage German Leather is rife with Scallopped Yokes- I have a nice German Leather with plenty of scallops-


http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=3519&highlight=leather+german

...the Scallopy one...

B
T

 

[Veronica Parra]

The photo of your leather coat says it all.

 

[Veronica Parra]

The Holy Grail (or, if you prefer, the most extreme) of 1930s men' suits, if it even exists, might look like this:




The FRONT of the jacket, with PLEATED POCKETS and FABRIC COVERED BUTTONS:

The BACK of the jacket:

The PLEATED SHOULDERS of the jacket:

The CUFFED SLEEVES of the jacket:

The PLEATED, DOUBLE-BREASTED waistcoat:

The BRITISH INVERSE PLEATED, HIGH WAISTBAND FRONT of the trousers:

The CINCHED back of the trousers, with CROSSED BELT LOOPS:

Some "campus suits" of the late 1920s offered trousers with cuffs faced in black velvet. Now that's extreme!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

A woman asking for help on one of the ebay boards. She's cleaning out the estate of her father in law. Maybe someone here can offer words of advice:

Oh, yeah, and it's a pretty damn fine almost holy grail-like suit. Check out the waist darts:

http://forums.ebay.com/db1/thread.jspa?threadID=1000132089&tstart=80&mod=1131916021547

 

[Veronica Parra]

That suit is wild, Baron Kurtz. Thanks for finding the link to it! A Holy Grail candidate, no question. According to the owner, it's a very small size.

Just in case the link becomes inactive, I've taken the precaution of posting the rest of the photos here.

 

[Wild Root]

!!!!!!!!!!!!

OH MY! I have never seen crossed belt loops! Look at those front pockets! They are smiling! First glance I would say that was woman's suit but, no it's not! The pleated shoulder look is really something too! I have never seen that on anything! Not even in a catalog till now!

That suit must be bought to hold in a collection till the right guy who fits it and appreciates it comes along!

Swell looker and that windowpane is just to cool! Everything about that suit is the coolest!

=WR=

 

[Wild Root]

Thanks for the photos.

You?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re welcome Shamus, I hope I didn't offend you in anyway; I just wanted to shed some light on the truth about the patch pocket style.

If I came off rude, I'm sorry buddy! Some times when I describe something, it can come off a little off.

=WR=

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That suit is wild, Baron Kurtz. Thanks for finding the link to it!

The credit goes to my wife. I have her trained well to look out for things that might interest me.

A question, and probably a pretty dumb one, but my jargon is not quite up to scratch - how would one identify inverse pleats? How are they different from normal pleats?

bk

 

[BellyTank]

Here you go Baron-

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/pleat

...this one's been a long time coming- thanks for bringing it up!

B
T

 

[nightandthecity]

I'm 1940s Mr average at 38 chest 33 waist 5ft8" and I started getting excited about the good Baron's suit when you said it was SMALL.

Alas it seems it is 1930s small - 27" waist trousers and 36 jacket. I will join you large types in just drooling.

 

[The Wingnut]

I'm a 34 - 36 with a 28 to 29" waist.

I'd make that suit look good.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Here you go Baron-

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/pleat

...this one's been a long time coming- thanks for bringing it up!

B
T

Many thanks :cheers1: