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The Cavanagh Club

Dewhurst

Practically Family
Messages
653
Location
USA
Absolutely love the lining. Is it as white as it looks in the pictures? The felt body looks nice and clean as well. Very nice.
 

Sprinkles

One of the Regulars
Messages
105
Location
NH-USA
Yes the lining is very clean and white! There are a couple of small discolorations/spots closer to the sweatband but overall,inside and out, it is in superb condition.
 

Sprinkles

One of the Regulars
Messages
105
Location
NH-USA
Here is my second "new" Cavanagh! A milan Cavanagh "Rogue". It has seen some use, while the crown is perfectly shaped the brim could use some work. Could light steaming or ironing help reshape the brim? Thank you!

1001105q.jpg


1001104v.jpg


1001103g.jpg
 

Alive'n'Amplified

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,032
Location
Atlanta, GA
Terrific hat, Sprinkles! :thumb:

I also have a Cavanagh Milan, and I have pressed the front of the brim with a steaming medium heat iron. It's best to use steam first and work the brim by hand. If you want the brim to "crisp", then you can start pressing it with the iron.

The best way to do this is to use an old white t-shirt, folded once or twice, between the straw and iron to keep it from burning. But you still have to be careful, because the heat will cook and burn the straw if you keep it on there too long or if you use too much pressure. Just make a pass and let it cool. Repeat until it starts taking shape. The straw will tighten and crisp up a little.
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
Cavanagh big, bound and edgeless

P1050461.JPG
P1050463.JPG
P1050462.JPG
P1050464.JPG


Lighter than typical Cavanagh felt, full 5-3/4"+ squarish block. Regrettably no factory tags remain. No Cavanagh Edge hiding under the binding and too wide for a trim and bind.
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Nicely proportioned hat. Interesting that the sweat is taped, but has a later crest. Perhaps the anomalies can be explained by it having had a refurb somewhere along the way.

Brad
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
It is from Bullock and Jones so lack of Ltd. may be from that. Lack of tags likely indicate trips to the cleaners(very clean). Has a hand written tape with a bunch of indecipherable numbers only.
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Nice. That telescope crease it had before was awful. Is that ribbon narrower than we typically see on Cavanaghs of this period, or is it just an illusion? Looks like 1 3/4" or so in the photo, maybe even less.

Brad
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
Nice. That telescope crease it had before was awful. Is that ribbon narrower than we typically see on Cavanaghs of this period, or is it just an illusion? Looks like 1 3/4" or so in the photo, maybe even less.

Brad
Thanks Brad. Yes, that ribbon is 1-5/8" wide. The brim is a skimpy 2-1/4". Felt is somewhat lighter than later Cavanaghs. Moth damage a bit worse than described, but not too visible when worn.
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Here's what I think is a very early Cavanagh Derby.

EarlyJJCDerby1_zps79ce4c61.jpg


Cavanagh Make stamp, which doesn't seem to have lasted in production hats very many years.
EarlyJJCDerby2_zps63a9ff55.jpg


Side-seam sweatband, a carryover from the earliest days of Derbies. I think all manufacturers had moved on to a rear seam, but Cavanagh revived it for his brand in 1928. Note the size spelled out, something else only seen on very early Cavanaghs.
EarlyJJCDerby3_zpsa22e335d.jpg


Yes, everything is off kilter inside, from the liner to the reed, but that's again a revival of an older style that was otherwise gone by 1928.
EarlyJJCDerby4_zpse7beeb02.jpg


Last but not least, the inside of the sweat and the factory label. Note that it's not the usual handwritten John Cavanagh Ltd. label, nor is it a standard C&K or Dobbs label, as I've sometimes seen. This might be a label prior to the introduction of the standard John Cavanagh Ltd. label. On the sweat, there are more markings than I've seen on any product from the C&K/Hat Corp. factory. On the left, it says "Cav" something. I don't think it indicates a Cavanagh Edge, but there may be a small one on this hat. 37 is the lot number, as also seen on the label - quite a low number. The exciting part is the intials JJC, for John J. Cavanagh. The little dot and curve is unknown to me. I was hoping that the JJC meant the Cavanagh himself had curled the brim, as he was wont to do from time to time to keep his hand in the game, or perhaps he inspected it personally, but the writing doesn't match his signature. I'm guessing it was merely an identifier, and meant that this hat was destined for the Cavanagh shop, prior to the installation of the liner. I've not seen anything like that on later, pre-1936 Cavanaghs, even a Derby similar to this one that I have.
EarlyJJCDerby5_zpsb45a7016.jpg


Brad
 

Sprinkles

One of the Regulars
Messages
105
Location
NH-USA
Wow, that is certainly a curious specimen! Very interesting features, I bet most of us today would be so OCD that the off-kilter interior would be torture (although such a nice hat would make up for it!)
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
Here's what I think is a very early Cavanagh Derby.


Last but not least, the inside of the sweat and the factory label. Note that it's not the usual handwritten John Cavanagh Ltd. label, nor is it a standard C&K or Dobbs label, as I've sometimes seen. This might be a label prior to the introduction of the standard John Cavanagh Ltd. label. On the sweat, there are more markings than I've seen on any product from the C&K/Hat Corp. factory. On the left, it says "Cav" something. I don't think it indicates a Cavanagh Edge, but there may be a small one on this hat. 37 is the lot number, as also seen on the label - quite a low number. The exciting part is the intials JJC, for John J. Cavanagh. The little dot and curve is unknown to me. I was hoping that the JJC meant the Cavanagh himself had curled the brim, as he was wont to do from time to time to keep his hand in the game, or perhaps he inspected it personally, but the writing doesn't match his signature. I'm guessing it was merely an identifier, and meant that this hat was destined for the Cavanagh shop, prior to the installation of the liner. I've not seen anything like that on later, pre-1936 Cavanaghs, even a Derby similar to this one that I have.

Brad
Very intesting. I think mine of the same vintage had a straight liner despite the sidewinder seam. I'll have to re-check for writing on the sweat. Too bad the signature doesn't match:(
 

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