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The Bowler or Derby Hat

SnowyViking

New in Town
Messages
37
This is my Jaxon & James english derby/bowler hat
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Messages
10,832
Location
vancouver, canada
I can’t stop buying black bowler / derby hats. This one was cheap and my size. Unknown maker (missing the liner tip and nothing behind the sweat).

After a quick initial dusting.

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Stay tuned — I have another black bowler on the way.
I have an old Stetson Bowler that a client sent to me to restore. Turns out it is not really a felt hat. It is a plastic shell with a felt glued on top or felt fibres sprayed onto the shell. No real experience with Bowlers, don't own one. Have you seen this before? The crown/brim ribbon is glued on as was the leather sweat. No stitching as it could not penetrate the plastic core.
 
I have an old Stetson Bowler that a client sent to me to restore. Turns out it is not really a felt hat. It is a plastic shell with a felt glued on top or felt fibres sprayed onto the shell. No real experience with Bowlers, don't own one. Have you seen this before? The crown/brim ribbon is glued on as was the leather sweat. No stitching as it could not penetrate the plastic core.
That is a purpose built cheap parade or festival hat. Not a "real" hat by any means. Doubt it is a Stetson. All I have seen have not been marked beyond an occasional centennial or town festival markings.....I have seen versions dating back to the 30's or so.......though the older ones tend to be fleeced cardboard or paper mache rather than plastic.
 
Messages
10,832
Location
vancouver, canada
That is a purpose built cheap parade or festival hat. Not a "real" hat by any means. Doubt it is a Stetson. All I have seen have not been marked beyond an occasional centennial or town festival markings.....I have seen versions dating back to the 30's or so.......though the older ones tend to be fleeced cardboard or paper mache rather than plastic.
This one had a Stetson tip liner in it plus a Stetson logo's leather sweat band. It sure feels like a plastic shell as I can press on it, deform it and it snaps back. My thought is: a plastic shell with a sprayed on 'felting' material. It is old, as the ribbon is decent quality, not a cheap costume ribbon but a real ribbon and bow work. It appears to be a real Bowler until it is picked up and squeezed and then plastic becomes evident.
 
This one had a Stetson tip liner in it plus a Stetson logo's leather sweat band. It sure feels like a plastic shell as I can press on it, deform it and it snaps back. My thought is: a plastic shell with a sprayed on 'felting' material. It is old, as the ribbon is decent quality, not a cheap costume ribbon but a real ribbon and bow work. It appears to be a real Bowler until it is picked up and squeezed and then plastic becomes evident.
Are you sure it is not a very thin felt then (scratching the inside surface will tell you)? They pressed the crowns of those in hydraulic presses......I posted an image of the process some time ago. Also, often the unlined hats were shellacked on the inside (which would create a plastic like feel).

Otherwise Flexible flocked plastic would not date much before the mid 60's. And I have seen NO evidence of any made or licensed by Stetson...........ever. (Though I have seen some REALLY cheap crap licensed and sold in Europe......but all that is fairly recent make, and no Bowlers, and again, ONLY Europe.)

Do you have any pictures?

EDIT: with all the gluing, someone could have dressed up their parade hat with components from a real one that was otherwise destroyed/did not fit.....or even to fake or fool someone......
 
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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,837
Location
Central Texas
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
Hutfabrik Josef Pichler & Söhne, Graz "Flexible", FP 5 3/4, possibly 1930s. Old Hutfabrik Josef Pichler & Söhne, Graz hats are not common especially in my size. I believe this is Fur Felt with a Chamois like finish. Based on the condition it must not have been worn often. Also a FP quarter size 5 3/4 so 58.5cm. An extra bonus is that it came with the original cardboard shipping box which rarely survived.

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Original Box from Hutfabrik Josef Pichler & Söhne, Graz.

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Last edited:

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,829
Location
Denmark
Hutfabrik Josef Pichler & Söhne, Graz "Flexible", FP 5 3/4, possibly 1930s. Old Hutfabrik Josef Pichler & Söhne, Graz hats are not common especially in my size. I believe this is Fur Felt with a Chamois like finish. Based on the condition it must not have been worn often. Also a FP quarter size 5 3/4 so 58.5cm. An extra bonus is that it came with the original cardboard shipping box which rarely survived.

53981138545_6a31aa5d25_h.jpg


53979810382_6584d00200_h.jpg


53980683626_77cf142f31_h.jpg


53981121405_0e638e5c65_h.jpg


53981007804_cdc6829669_h.jpg


53979801887_93c7f1ce4e_h.jpg


53980134037_8944d66bed_h.jpg


Original Box from Hutfabrik Josef Pichler & Söhne, Graz.

53981495957_340f876375_h.jpg


53981172755_29e19cf13a_h.jpg


53979839392_1ee07b41ec_h.jpg


53979833302_8f921c499a_h.jpg


53979828082_0735309d8e_h.jpg
Great find, Steve. Looks in super condition.

And such a bonus with the box! Congrats.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,829
Location
Denmark
Can anyone tell me anything about this Knox bowler with ventilation eyelets? Did they make them like that or did someone add them? View attachment 638706 View attachment 638707
I'd say they're original.

I have a Stetson Bowler from the late 1920s / early 30s period with original vent eyelets.

Please post more photos of the liner and any labels under the sweatband.
 

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