The Bowler or Derby Hat

[deadlyhandsome]

Maybe if I could find one with a taller crown and wider brim. Both mine are very similar in measurements.

It would also look better if I lost some weight and my face wasn’t so round.

In the vintage market I’ll probably never find a wide brim and tall crown version, and I don’t like the style enough to commission a custom.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Saint Patrick's Day is fast approaching so ''tis the season for a derby.

 

[Rmccamey]

Maybe if I could find one with a taller crown and wider brim. Both mine are very similar in measurements.

View attachment 405864 View attachment 405865 View attachment 405866

It would also look better if I lost some weight and my face wasn’t so round.

In the vintage market I’ll probably never find a wide brim and tall crown version, and I don’t like the style enough to commission a custom.

You might consider the "western" look. This is one of Rick's that I simply adore. I think it would look good on you.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

You might consider the "western" look. This is one of Rick's that I simply adore. I think it would look good on you.

View attachment 405875

I remember seeing that hat. Less bowler and more open crown western with a curled brim. Rick sure wears it well.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

You might consider the "western" look. This is one of Rick's that I simply adore. I think it would look good on you.

View attachment 405875

The closest hat I currently have is an Akubra Grazier.

 

[mayserwegener]

Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

"J / Special" Sweatband

Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

 

[Steve1857]

Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

"J / Special" Sweatband

Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

A German product of excellent quality indeed, Steve.

 

[mayserwegener]

A German product of excellent quality indeed, Steve.

Steve, Thanks again. I think it came out of the JHS Ratibor / Ratiboř Silesia, Germany factory but highly possible it wasn't completely made there. There isn't detailed information (probably for obvious reasons) on how they handled the post WWI Czechoslovakian export restrictions. The JHS Ratibor factory was definitely a reaction to the restrictions ( I have that information).

 

[Rmccamey]

Another beauty, indeed.

Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

"J / Special" Sweatband

Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

 

[mayserwegener]

Another beauty, indeed.

Randy, Thank you! I have a couple more to post.

 

[Zombie_61]

You might consider the "western" look. This is one of Rick's that I simply adore. I think it would look good on you.

View attachment 405875

The closest hat I currently have is an Akubra Grazier.

View attachment 405887

I like the looks of both of these hats, but at a glance I would not at all have thought they were Bowlers and once I got either of them in my hot little hands I'd ruin them by creasing the crowns.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I like the looks of both of these hats, but at a glance I would not at all have thought they were Bowlers and once I got either of them in my hot little hands I'd ruin them by creasing the crowns.

I don’t know about Ricks hat, but my Akubra Grazier is not a bowler. It is a soft open crown felt that most owners, according to the photos I’ve found, shape as a pork pie. I just left it open crown. The crown is too low for me to crease it and end up with a look I like. I’ve thought about shellacking it, but I’ll probably sell it as it’s a tight 61cm.

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser "Grosser Preis" / M. Mertés Hutfabrik, Jnh. Max Hecht Nürnberg 8 , measures 58.5 cm, possibly late 1920s early 1930s (this based on a February 3, 1932 Newspaper Sweatband Spacer). This one is difficult to date because of the non matching Liner and Sweatband plus no Paper Label. I tend to think it was made by Mayser Ulm based on the construction, components and Felt are of very high quality. I have collected some information but have to do more research. It's rare to find a Mélange Stiff Felt. I believe this is Fur Felt because of the very soft hand but it might have some Wool in the mix. The Mélange is mostly different shades of Gray maybe a tinge of Red other unknown Colors. The Finish is some what roughly clipped so Flamand Velour like. This is one of my better recent finds. As I mentioned it's difficult / rare to find this type of Stiff Felt.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Two wks until Saint Patrick's Day.

 

[steur]

Nowhere near the quality of Steve's (@mayserwegener) bowler, but still interesting.
Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.

 

[mayserwegener]

Nowhere near the quality of Steve's (@mayserwegener) bowler, but still interesting.
Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.

Stefan, Great find! Very tight Brim work. Also fantastic looking sweatband. I have an old JHS Stiff Felt that has a Crown Tip Patch plus Liner. I only discovered it because the Liner was loose. Not saying that is the case here but it might be a possibility.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Great find! Very tight Brim work. Also fantastic looking sweatband. I have an old JHS Stiff Felt that has a Crown Tip Patch plus Liner. I only discovered it because the Liner was loose. Not saying that is the case here but it might be a possibility.

Thank you, Steve. I don't think that's the case here, since the liner is completely different from the crown patch.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thank you, Steve. I don't think that's the case here, since the liner is completely different from the crown patch.

Stefan, You are probably correct. I don't think we should start removing liners to check.

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Flexible", FP 5, 116 grams, possibly later 1920s. Interesting unique Box Bow. Post WWI JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Type 1a.

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Elastic", 57.5 cm, 118 grams. possibly mid 1920s to early 1930s. This is a Ladies Stiff Felt Riding Hat but since it's a JHS + very unique I decided to pick it up. It appears to be entirely original and in NOS condition. The Black smooth finished Felt is the same as a Men's JHS "Elastic" Stiff Felt. The 4.5 cm Brim is not curled and has downward flange with a thin Binding. The Grosgrain Sweatband with padded which is stitched in with a X pattern. The Bow is on the left side like Men's Hats. There is also has a long fabric Strap which you see on some Ladies Hats. I couldn't find a paper label so maybe this was custom made by JHS. Definitely a very unique piece for my museum.