The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Rmccamey]

I'm not sure what I want yet, but a 20s-40s model would be nice. Thanks for the good advice, gents.

Hi Randy. You should definitely go for a Bowler. The Manchester hat makers were dab hands at making excellent Bowlers. Not sure how often you come across English made hats in the US, though.
I think that Knox was a bargain at $50. Someone somewhere must be pleased. Stetson made a good Bowler, too.

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I have a Stetson, Knox, Hurd's (independent house), and a Woodrow (British) and all are fantastic. Do you want something lined or unlined? Vented or non-vented? Avoid anything with a plastic liner tip because these are from the 50s revival period. Try to find one with the non-sewn sweat joint by the rear bow as these are 30s or earlier (speaking for domestic makes).

Derbies/Bowlers are fairly common on eBay, though the condition can vary quite a bit. I'd recommend waiting until you find one in great condition, don't settle for good enough. If you're wanting something a bit more unique once in a blue moon a Stetson nutria homburg will pop up on eBay. As @Steve1857 mentioned, you can often score a bargain for $50 or less.

 

[Steve1857]

Guilty! I'm loving this bowler. It's flawless and really comfy. I appreciate that none of you gents made me pay more for it than the opening bid. [emoji120]

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Nice catch at a super price. Looks good on you, too. Congrats.

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[Steve1857]

All this talk of Bowlers inspired me to wear one of mine today. Collet of Bruxelles, ca. 1930s, imported and sold in the little Danish town of Nakskov.
Have a good Saturday folks.

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[Mean Eyed Matt]

Matt, Now that I look at it again it might be earlier than I thought. The reason being is the outside reed on the sweatband. It's possible this type of sweatband made it into the 1950s but I don't have any other 1950s era German Stiff Felts to compare it with.

Thank you, Steve, for your comment.
The outside reed? So this elongated grain?
Do you mean the structure of the sweatband?
You think that's typical of German pre-war hats?

I also thought briefly about whether it might come from the UK and was only sold in Munich.
Would something like that be possible?

By the way, I took out the glued cork strips at the front and at the back
to place them at the side to get a better fit.
I noticed these number labels. Does that help?

 

[mayserwegener]

Thank you, Steve, for your comment.
The outside reed? So this elongated grain?
Do you mean the structure of the sweatband?
You think that's typical of German pre-war hats?

I also thought briefly about whether it might come from the UK and was only sold in Munich.
Would something like that be possible?

By the way, I took out the glued cork strips at the front and at the back
to place them at the side to get a better fit.
I noticed these number labels. Does that help?

Matt, Looks like there is a reed on the outside edge of the sweatband. See the grey reed covering at the outer edge of this example.

The numbered paper labels look similar to some of the WWII era mystery German Wool hats. Is your Stiff Felt made of Wool?

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Okay, now I see what you mean.
Yes, there's an extra "piping" sewn on it:

As for the stiff felt:
I'm not quite sure whether it's pure wool or a fur-wool mixture.
But I would think that there is a small percentage of hair.

 

[Steve1857]

Vintage Bowlers have the most wonderful pleated liners. Here are mine from Bowlers of the 1920s and 30s.
Hope to see some of yours fellow Bowler/Derby owners.

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[Rmccamey]

Very nice assortment Steve. The Iiners are fantastic.

Vintage Bowlers have the most wonderful pleated liners. Here are mine from Bowlers of the 1920s and 30s.
Hope to see some of yours fellow Bowler/Derby owners.

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[Steve1857]

Very nice assortment Steve. The Iiners are fantastic.

Thanks, Randy [emoji4]

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[steur]

Vintage Bowlers have the most wonderful pleated liners. Here are mine from Bowlers of the 1920s and 30s.
Hope to see some of yours fellow Bowler/Derby owners.

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Nice display, Steve. Is that the Moores I alerted you to back when? Or is it a different one?

 

[Steve1857]

Nice display, Steve. Is that the Moores I alerted you to back when? Or is it a different one?

It's a different one, Stefan. I was lucky to pick it up at my local flea market last year.

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[steur]

Another one of yesterday's haul. Mossant chapeau melon in a size 60. Brim at 5cm and crown 13,5cm. No liner and the brim binding is toast (obviously). Still interesting enough to bring it along. The brim binding can be replaced and a liner can be added. Very nice hand to the felt. The shell is still a wee bit lumpy from dents it suffered in the past, but it has good bones as it were.

 

[Steve1857]

Another one of yesterday's haul. Mossant chapeau melon in a size 60. Brim at 5cm and crown 13,5cm. No liner and the brim binding is toast (obviously). Still interesting enough to bring it along. The brim binding can be replaced and a liner can be added. Very nice hand to the felt. The shell is still a wee bit lumpy from dents it suffered in the past, but it has good bones as it were.

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Another nice find in such a large size, Stefan. I bet Fleur could fix those occupational wounds. Shame it's not my size.

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[steur]

Another nice find in such a large size, Stefan. I bet Fleur could fix those occupational wounds. Shame it's not my size.

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Thanks, Steve. It's what I was thinking.

 

[steur]

Here's one I did not bring along, but I thought I'd show you anyway. Interesting enough to take some pictures of.
Mayser bowler. Didn't bring a measuring tape, so can't give you dimensions, but I liked the finishing on this one.

 

[jonbuilder]

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I would love to score a similar hat

 

[mayserwegener]

Here's one I did not bring along, but I thought I'd show you anyway. Interesting enough to take some pictures of.
Mayser bowler. Didn't bring a measuring tape, so can't give you dimensions, but I liked the finishing on this one.

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Stefan, Super! Haven't seen that type of sweatband before on an old Mayser Stiff Felt. Thank you for taking photos.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Here's one I did not bring along, but I thought I'd show you anyway. Interesting enough to take some pictures of.
Mayser bowler. Didn't bring a measuring tape, so can't give you dimensions, but I liked the finishing on this one.

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Stefan, super find this Mayser!
The whole design of the interior and especially the structure of the sweatband
(apart from the outer reed) reminds me very much of my bowler from Hut Seidl.
This leads me to the assumption that my bowler may also have been made by Mayser.
Steve has already exposed the link between Mayser and Seidl on his side:
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

 

[mayserwegener]

Stefan, super find this Mayser!
The whole design of the interior and especially the structure of the sweatband
(apart from the outer reed) reminds me very much of my bowler from Hut Seidl.
This leads me to the assumption that my bowler may also have been made by Mayser.
Steve has already exposed the link between Mayser and Seidl on his side:
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

Matt, Does this Hut-Seidl Stiff Felt have a paper label? I can't remember.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Steve, No, there are only these two labels with numbers, that you linked to the "mysterious WWII era German Wool hats":