The B-3 appreciation society …

[Fletch]

OCD is a boon to any man who wants to wear old clothes, and a necessity to anyone who wants to work with them.

Good luck with your search - maybe Google will turn up some pointers? Keep us up to date on your progress or lack of same.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Somewhere in another thread are some photos I took of a B-3 I made from scratch. I used two methods of sewing, depending on what part of the job I was doing and the thickness I was penetrating. For sheepskin - to sheepskin I used a vintage Singer machine like yours. For the straps and most of the joining strips I used a pounce wheel and hand-sewed them. It was slow work but I was going carefully anyway. In my opinion you'd need to be considering industrial production speeds before it would be worth investing in a walking or slipping foot machine. Just go slow and don't use much pressure. When the going gets tough and you need to go through thick leather as well as sheepskin, make the holes first. That's where the pounce wheel comes in, but I dare say you could use a ruler and awl and get the same effect. Then sew with two needles, front and back like glove makers do and cross over on the inside to get the same effect as a machine. Once you get the feel for the tension you can't really tell the difference. Oh, and I suggest waxing the thread if you are using real cotton.

Several people have mistaken 'my' jacket for an Aero or ELC, so it can't be all that bad. I admit that making a jacket from scratch is a lot of work, but it's satisfying (even more than acquiring an original I think) and beats credit card shopping every time.

Just my opinion.

Alan

Alan

 

[James Miller]

Just an Idea!

You might be able to trim some of the wool just were the stiching will be placed. That might help in getting a better stich. It would be on the inside and can't be seen ,this would help keeping the leather closer together along the stich line.

 

[fishmeok]

Thanks guys- I trimmed the sheepskin along the joint and that helped, but I'm not at all satisfied with the the results. I don't know why the first sleeve went so quick and smoothly and the second turned into a major PITA. I was up until about 3 last night working on it. The jacket is back together for now, and I'm going to put this on hold until I get some good practice materials and do a lot more experimenting.

A very unexpected problem was sewing the arm seam back up- I had the edges marked, but the are invisible under the fleece and I went off the edge twice. I say again, major PITA:rage:

I understand why Alan hand sewed that jacket (which is amazing, BTW) sheepskin in frickin SLIPPERY, it goes everywhere you don't want it to.

Alan, do you know what kind of machine the pro's use? Is it a specialized industrial or something modified to handle fleece? I'm really curious now.
Cheers
Mark

 

[Alan Eardley]

Mark,

The professionals use big machines with walking feet. Pfaff is a common make in Europe and Brother in the East. I'm not sure what would be used in the States, although Stu at LW makes a point of saying that he uses a Pfaff for some specialist work.

I built the B-3 in conjunction with Steve Sellars on VLJ who was restoring an original and an ELC I borrowed to make a pattern from. Steve was able to help me a lot with things that weren't obvious from looking at a completed jacket.

I agree, the sleeves are awkward. If you have the sleeve off, note how curved it is? You're going to have to sew with that curve or you'll keep 'going off the edge'. As you say, sheepskin is one of the more difficult materials to handle.

There are two types of seam in a sleeve. One has a flat (plain seam) sewn with the sleeve inside out and then reversed. If you have enough surplus felling you can pin this as you'll shear it off to make the seam neat. This is the seam that some people complain about making the jacket uncomfortable when wearing it with a T-shirt, so the closer you can trim it, the better.

The other is sewn edge-to-edge and then covered with a leather panel and strip. This is where I hand stitched it as my machine wouldn't penerate the sheepskin and the leather. Twin needle sewing is not that difficult once you have pierced the holes.

Here's a photo I found of the sleeve and body of the jacket.

Keep up the good work - I think we should encourage people to make or repair their own gear.


Alan

Thanks guys- I trimmed the sheepskin along the joint and that helped, but I'm not at all satisfied with the the results. I don't know why the first sleeve went so quick and smoothly and the second turned into a major PITA. I was up until about 3 last night working on it. The jacket is back together for now, and I'm going to put this on hold until I get some good practice materials and do a lot more experimenting.

A very unexpected problem was sewing the arm seam back up- I had the edges marked, but the are invisible under the fleece and I went off the edge twice. I say again, major PITA:rage:

I understand why Alan hand sewed that jacket (which is amazing, BTW) sheepskin in frickin SLIPPERY, it goes everywhere you don't want it to.

Alan, do you know what kind of machine the pro's use? Is it a specialized industrial or something modified to handle fleece? I'm really curious now.
Cheers
Mark

 

[James Miller]

What Type of Sewing Machine

I use a PFAFF Sewing machine model No. 1222 with a walking foot also it has a removable piece so that sleeves or pant legs can be sewn. It's about 25 years old. But the one I would recommend JUKI they are more industrial use. The only problem with Juki thay are around 2,000 dollars used. A little more than I want to spend on A hobbie.

The PFAFF that I use works well for everyday repairs. I am making a jacket just for fun and were the sleeves and shouders meet along with the empaulets is six ply of leather it's a little hard on my machine because I used a few needels because they keep breaking however if I take my time I can get through the leather. Sewing sleeves, waistbands is a snap with the PFAFF.

The machine you showed above looks cool and a older one. the older ones are a lot stronger than the newer ones, unless you get a JUKI. Keep up the good work and I enjoy seeing your work.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Please use this thread for B-3s. I hope over time it'll become as useful and informative as the Irvin thread.





I picked up a WWII USAAF B-3 that was found in a barn in Scotland. It's a little roughed up, but nothing really serious … certainly fixable. The tag (black w/ white/yellow lettering) is odd in that there is no manufacturer information. The tag reads:

Type B-3
DWG. NO. 33H5595
A.C. ORDER NO. 43-13609-AF
SIZE 44R
PROPERTY
AIR FORCE, U.S. ARMY​

I'll try to get some images up in the next couple of days. The jacket is "redskin", 3-panel back.

Any help as to whom that order number was assigned to (i assume the numbers were unique) would be great. I assume 1943?

bk

p.s. We have an Irvin thread, and dedicated threads to other jackets. Please post all your B3 pics - original, repro, photos from WWII etc, just like the Irvin thread - here and all discussion etc. The B-3 is a great jacket that i'd like people's take on.

 

[aswatland]

I have checked my list of B-3 contracts and the 43-13609 contract is not among them. There is a 43-13619 contract without a maker on the label. Perhaps you could double check the contract number?

Contracts for B-3s were often issued sequentially and this number does not fit those issued in the second half of 1942 to the first half of 1943. The 43 refers to the fiscal year which I believe started in June 1942.

There were several makers who chose not to put their names on the labels and without the original USAAF contract info it is most unlikely it could be linked to a particular maker.

I would be interested to see some pics of the jacket.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Add 43-13609 to your list then! I checked and i didn't transcribe wrongly. I'll get pics soon.

bk

 

[Senicko_Spain]

Add 43-13609 to your list then! I checked and i didn't transcribe wrongly. I'll get pics soon.

bk

No recorded anywhere! Can't wait to see pics. Gents we've found a new one. :eusa_doh:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

My digicam just died so i'm charging the batteries. Should have pics later today.

Hope it ain't a repro now i've got my hopes up. :eusa_doh: Not that it would matter for the price i paid.

bk

 

[PADDY]

You can just feel the electricity in the air right now...

...as we wait in anticipation for the photos (and the background story to the find!!)

Get that camera up and running Dear Baron, the wait is killing us!!!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

"Patience" said the tortoise to the hare. You like not my manufactured suspense?

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

OK, camera up 'n running. This jacket has a number of issues. It needs a replacement zipper, new cuffs, repair to an arm panel to repair someone's poor previous repair, probably a new collar. I have not yet applied any Pecard's. You'll note the tarnishing on the buckles along with significant loss of colour on the outer coating of the sheepskin, though the sheepskin itself is in pretty nice condition. Opine away, gents. I'll entertain requests for further specific photos.

Zipper is a rotten replacement job.

pocket

3-panel back.

side. You can't see it, but it has a panel running from armpit to hem, apparently a feature of the 2nd pattern B3.

Side buckle & strap. here you can see the side panel.

Collar up & fastened/strapped. The two side of the collar attach to each other with a snap.

The two sides of the collar also snap down to the chest.

Chest snap close-up.

Leather hanger and label.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Label close-up.

Label. Bottom line says AIR FORCE, U.S. ARMY:

bk

 

[BellyTank]

Size "44 R" ?

Can that be correct..?
I wasn't aware of there being "fittings" on USAAF flight gear.

Oh dear!

Maybe it's just the label that's dodgy.

An original with lost label, with a dodgy label re-applied..?

There was talk of "post-war sold-as-surplus, re-labeled" flight jackets but 44 R..?



B
T

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Obviously these are "REGULAR" NOT "R"

one fro acme depot:

a couple from Bell's.

http://www.bellsaviation.com/catalog/viewitem.php?itemid=20063

http://www.bellsaviation.com/catalog/viewitem.php?itemid=20049

bk

I seem to recall having seen an A-2 spec label marked 36R. Not sure where, though.

 

[BellyTank]

I seem to recall having seen an A-2 spec label marked 36R. Not sure where, though.

On a repro, probably-

OK, that's a relief about the "R", something I hadn't duly noted,
from the flight jacket days...
but that was A-2s.

"Regular" was what I thought "R" described.

It was more the label looking dodgy that made me speak.
The label does look a little odd.
Can you see if it looks to be re-sewn through the neck area?

Did original A-2s have "R"s(etc) too..?
Surely not. Am I losing my mind..?

I'll keep quiet now and listen for the experts...


B
T

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hi BT,

Re: the label. There is no evidence of more than one set of stitches where the label is sewn through the skin. So, unless someone meticulously reused the original holes … possible, i guess. Moreover the label appears to have been stitched in before the "coating" was put on the outer sheepskin, as the thread is still partially coated on the outside.

Mine looks like this (aswatland's), pretty much, though not so defined. Just below the collar at the centre seam: Large rectangle of stitching for label, two smaller rectangles of holes/thread either side and above for attaching the hanger.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

This is where i'd seen it. Acme Depot again. From the Dayton museum.

Aero 21996 contract.

So, at least a precedent for "R"

bk