Technical questions - center seam, coloured leather

[greenc]

Hi everyone,

I have two technical questions I'm looking for thoughts on:

1. What's the purpose of a centre seam on the back of a jacket? Is it to effect the drape? Particularly with horsehide I know a full seamless panel is more expensive to produce than two seamed panels. Is cost the only reason or do manufacturers do it for a specific technical reason? And all manufacturers seem to have at least a jacket or two with a centre seam in their catalogs.

2. I love the look of coloured leather but it's my understanding that the top coat is in essence painted on, is this true? I've seen coloured jackets that are still soft and pliable, and I've seen others that the coloured top coat looks like it's going to crack at any moment.

Let me know what you think, thanks much, as always I appreciate your thoughts.

Chris

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

1. Not always cost cutting. If it’s from a solid maker, then it’s for shaping purposes as we all have different body types/postures that a one-piece back may not drape on nicely for certain individuals.

 

[Aloysius]

1. What's the purpose of a centre seam on the back of a jacket? Is it to effect the drape? Particularly with horsehide I know a full seamless panel is more expensive to produce than two seamed panels. Is cost the only reason or do manufacturers do it for a specific technical reason? And all manufacturers seem to have at least a jacket or two with a centre seam in their catalogs.

It comes from tailoring. The split panel makes for a better fit (this is true of shirt yokes too); while this does save money in terms or requiring a smaller single panel of leather, it shouldn't be assumed to be a bad thing.

2. I love the look of coloured leather but it's my understanding that the top coat is in essence painted on, is this true? I've seen coloured jackets that are still soft and pliable, and I've seen others that the coloured top coat looks like it's going to crack at any moment.

It's generally dyed through, not a coloured layer on top of black or brown.

There are some exceptions, like coloured Chromexcel which is hand-dyed on the surface over a brown core.

In the future I think these would be better suited for the Ask a Question, Get an Answer thread.

 

[greenc]

1. Not always cost cutting. If it’s from a solid maker, then it’s for shaping purposes as we all have different body types/postures that a one-piece back may not drape on nicely for certain individuals.

Thanks, I appreciate that. My Thedi has three panels in the back - one across the shoulders, a middle section, and a lower section - and the side panels seem to have a curve to them, which means it offers a bit of shape.

I'm glad to learn that the color is dyed through and not just applied as a top coat. Enjoy the coming weekend.

 

[Aloysius]

I'm glad to learn that the color is dyed through and not just applied as a top coat. Enjoy the coming weekend.

To be clear, topcoat isn't inherently worse. Horween's colours are beloved around the world for a reason.