Tailcoat

[cufflinkmaniac]

I'm planning to start working soon, and since I have no expenses (being sixteen does have its perks ) I plan to save all of my earnings for a trip to Europe. The biggest highlight of my (still hypothetical) trips will be attending the Philharmoniker Ball in Vienna. I plan to have an evening tailcoat made (I'll chalk it up to a trip expense) by Prince Henry in Thailand, they do them with trousers for $400.00 or so and I can have it cut to Golden Era standards. They have midnight blue fabric, so I am going with that ala the Duke of Windsor. I'm hoping that they'll have grosgrain available for the facings. I know that high waisted trousers with a fishtail back and double braid are a given, but beyond that, are there any other specifics that will give it the
'30s touch?

 

[anglophile]

www.blacktieguide.com for white tie info.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

www.blacktieguide.com for white tie info.

Oh I know, but they don't really cover what makes a Golden Era tailcoat a Golden Era tailcoat.

 

[anglophile]

Has it changed?

 

[bobalooba]

fftopic:

Hey I'm a 16 year old trying to get to europe too!
Tho I'll probably end up going next summer
best of luck anyway.

 

[Bird's One View]

There was some controversy about whether to have a breast pocket.

 

[anglophile]

Check out the article on tailcoats on the London Lounge. Its from an Apparel Arts from the "30's. Its on the second page under articles.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

Has it changed?

I think so. It occurred to me that I must have been out of it last night because I liosted no specifics! I'm wondering about the breast pocket, and what color linings are acceptable (I was thinking red silk.) I'm also thinking of having the trousers cut with a bit more "breathing room" given that I'll be dancing in the suit.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

There was some controversy about whether to have a breast pocket.

I was wondering that myself, and it is one of the reasons I posted this thread.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

Check out the article on tailcoats on the London Lounge. Its from an Apparel Arts from the "30's. Its on the second page under articles.

I had forgotten about them! Thanks!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

In the 1930s, the most classic of British evening tailcoats had no outside breast pocket. Most American tailcoats of the '30s did, however.


Grosgrain facings? That's okay, but the most classic (and British) were of very fine wale (thin stripe) grosgrain. Also, try to have the suit made in barathea wool, as opposed to a plain worsted.


Red lining? Fun, but not of that era. Classic? Black satin body lining (with cream silk sleeve linings).


.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

One more thing, Cufflinkmaniac ...


If you intend to do a lot of dancing in this tailcoat, be sure that your tailor sets in the sleeves along a horizontal line. That way, your arms can stay raised without inordinately pulling up the tailcoat's shoulder and chest.

.

 

[Tomasso]

If you intend to do a lot of dancing in this tailcoat, be sure that your tailor sets in the sleeves along a horizontal line. That way, your arms can stay raised without inordinately pulling up the tailcoat's shoulder and chest.

.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

One more thing, Cufflinkmaniac ...


If you intend to do a lot of dancing in this tailcoat, be sure that your tailor sets in the sleeves along a horizontal line. That way, your arms can stay raised without inordinately pulling up the tailcoat's shoulder and chest.

.

Alright!

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

In the 1930s, the most classic of British evening tailcoats had no outside breast pocket. Most American tailcoats of the '30s did, however.

Were you to have a tailcoat made, would it have a breast pocket? What do you think would be more accepted in Vienna?


Grosgrain facings? That's okay, but the most classic (and British) were of barathea silk, not grosgrain.

I'll try for that.


Red lining? Fun, but not of that era. Classic? Black satin body lining (with cream silk sleeve linings).

Can do.


.

 

[bobalooba]

I agree , red lining would look cool and this isn't really a period piece, it's for your enjoyment so I'd go with it cuz you might want to wear it more than once.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

I agree , red lining would look cool and this isn't really a period piece, it's for your enjoyment so I'd go with it cuz you might want to wear it more than once.

I have been thinking and red lining would be more likely to draw attention, so I'll probably stick to black silk satin. I may be tempted to have the sleeves lined in red silk, though.

 

[bobalooba]

I s'pose.
If I were paying for something that nice I'd want the attention

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Were you to have a tailcoat made, would it have a breast pocket? What do you think would be more accepted in Vienna?

I would have it made with a breast pocket, because I like the look of a linen handkerchief peeking out.


That said, I just googled photos of the Vienna Opera Ball ... and it appears that most men there do not wear pocket handkerchiefs. The photos are not very sharp, so it's impossible to tell if the Vienna Ball tailcoats lack breast pockets, or if the pockets are merely devoid of handkerchiefs.


BTW, you'll be in good company at the Ball.
Dita Von Teese attended last year's: http://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2008/02/01/vienna_c_2_gallery__600x400.jpg


.

 

[Geesie]

I agree , red lining would look cool and this isn't really a period piece, it's for your enjoyment so I'd go with it cuz you might want to wear it more than once.

I can't figure out when in my life I'd wear white tie once, much less more...