suit alterations

[Graeme]

As you may have read in my other thread, im trying to find my first suit.

Ive found a couple i like but there a bit too big.

Is it possible to alter them alot!
Its too big in the chest
too long
arms are too long
too big across the shoulders
trouser waist is a little big
trousers may be too long (there cuffed)

As im looking for a 50's flecked suit my options are few, is going too big and having it altered a viable option or will it be way too expensive?

 

[dakotanorth]

Suit resizing

As you may have read in my other thread, im trying to find my first suit.

Ive found a couple i like but there a bit too big.

Is it possible to alter them alot!
Its too big in the chest
too long
arms are too long
too big across the shoulders
trouser waist is a little big
trousers may be too long (there cuffed)

As im looking for a 50's flecked suit my options are few, is going too big and having it altered a viable option or will it be way too expensive?

In a word, NO.
Sleeve length, waist, and leg length are possible to change- these are the things that are ALWAYS adjusted when you get a new suit.
However, CHEST size is in essence, what makes the jacket. That and the shoulders. If it's too wide in the chest or shoulders, "altering" them involves rebuilding the size, recontouring the shape, adjusting padding, interfacing, blending the armhole into the torso, etc etc. You aren't really altering, you are rebuilding.
Keep in mind too, pants should only be altered about 1 inch on the waist, either in or out. You can sneak by with 2, but beyond that, the hip pockets start to travel to your backside or frontside.
Keep cruising Ebay... or other online stores. If you wear a smaller men's size, say 38, you should have no problem finding one.

 

[Fletch]

Jacket length and shoulders are the big non-negotiables.
- There's no way to shorten the bottom hem (the skirt) of a jacket by more than an inch without making it look really obvious that it's been cut down. The pockets, buttons, everything will look out of place afterwards.
- You can get shoulders narrowed, but it it is hard to do and it costs a bundle. It's almost always better just to keep looking for a smaller suit.

As far as chests and waists, much can be done - I had a size 46 suit cut down to 40 many years ago. (It was a 30s model, so the shoulder width and coat length were fairly spare. That made it possible.)

Pants and sleeves are also fairly simple.

 

[Graeme]

Ok, excellent.

In that case, i could do with some measuring advice.

Things get confusing.

Where exactly do i measure my shoulders.
should i just let my arms hang naturaly or stretch a bit to find the maximum distance?
I read on here somewhere shoulder measurement can depend on the shape of your arm as to whether you need any overhang.

Also, chest measurement. Im looking for a 50's style, how much bigger should the suits measurement be, roughly?

Should i breath in and expand my chest?

I think im about 18.5 across the shoulders and 38 around the chest.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Is it possible to alter them alot!
Its too big in the chest
too long
arms are too long
too big across the shoulders
trouser waist is a little big
trousers may be too long (there cuffed)

Generally, you're gonna be out of luck. The trousers waist, and length, can be adjusted pretty liberally, but as far as the jacket goes, the best you can hope for is something that will just work. If the adjustments are too great on the jacket, just forget about it.

Once a garment is finished, you can only do so much. If you over adjust, it'll throw off the balance, proportion and overall fit of the garment.

Keep in mind, tailors can only do so much; we can't work miracles. If the jacket you're looking at is a 44, and you're a 40 -- sorry.

If you're going to get a lot of work done, prepare to open the wallet, as well. Shortening sleeves, for instance, involves a lot of hand work, and can be pricey. I'm cheap, at 30 bucks.

Best of luck to you, though!

 

[Graeme]

thanx. Chest measurements get confusing, clarifying between actual measurement and what chest size it was cut to fit.

I guess i'd better measure myself properly and keep on looking.

Any advice on jacket measurements would be great. I have some trousers that fit perfectly so im ok with those measurements.

 

[Micawber]

My advice would be to go to your nearest traditional outfitters and tailors ask them if they will measure you up (many will do this for a reasonable fee). While measuring may seem straightforward for the tyro it's always worth getting the job done properly as it could save you from making costly mistakes.

 

[Micawber]

Also be mindful that sellers idea of garment sizes and methods of measuring garments themselves can sometimes vary.

 

[CharlestonBows]

You measure your chest by putting the tape around the thickest part of your chest, right under your arms. Pull the tape snug for a true-to-body measurement. If you measure 40 inches on the chest, that is your size.

I strongly encourage you to visit a local tailor or seamstress to get your measurements done. The charge should be nominal. Most clothiers or haberdashers can do this for you, as well.

See the following FL thread on the subject.

And check out the AAAC page on the subject.

 

[Graeme]

I think your right, ill go to a few local tailors tomorrow.

Been measuring and my shoulders are broader than i thought, 19".

I understand now how to take your chest measurement but...

If you measure 40", therefore your size is 40, what would the actual jacket measurement be?, how much room do you need, on average.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Depending on the maker, a size 40 jacket would actually be anywhere from a 41-43 inch chest.

If no jacket size is stated, and you measure a 40 in the chest, you would generally want the actual jacket chest measurement (not the size on the label) to be about 42 or so.

 

[Graeme]

Ok, ive been looking at the suit in question. Its a really nice suit, the only thing i dont like is peak lapels rather than notched but thats easiy changed right?

As far as measurements, i still want a little guidance if thats ok.

The shoulders are spot on, my G/F measured me and im 19.5, exactly the same as the suit.
Ive tried on a shirt that fits well but its reasonably snug, thast got 19" shoulders.

My chest is 40-41" coincidentaly.
The above shirt measures 48!! even though its as small in the chest as i'd want to go.

The suit jacket is a 46" chest, sounds a little big but i want a loose fitting suit as its 50's style and has loose baggy trousers.

From the links you gave me they advise an extra 1-2" for snug fit and an extra 4" for loose fit.

Will an extra 5-6" look really bad?

Im 6' 3" if that makes any difference.

Jacket length would actually be pretty good at 33"

Sleeves might need an inch off.

Trousers should fit good, might need an inch off the bottom and 1/2 inch out the waist.


The only reason im so hung up on this particular suit is the fleck wool material is lovely and 50's fleck wool suits are hard to find.
Ive also only got till may to sort a suit out and im pretty sure anything i get will need altering a little.

 

[Graeme]

P.S. thanks for all the help, i realise im pretty much asking you the same question repetedly

Sorry.

 

[Jovan]

If you don't like peaks... don't get a suit with them! (Though I can't understand why you don't. ) Things like that are set in stone unless you want to pay a lot and/or have them look funny afterwards. The way a peak lapel is created is much different with regards to height, width, etc.

 

[Graeme]

Really?

That surprises me.

Here is the suit in question.

Ive been looking at the lapels and comparing them to another 50's jacket with notch lapels.

The lapels look exactly the same width, height, shape etc its just these lapels have and extra 'triangle' of material.

Doesnt look like it would be that hard to alter (i know nothing though), i'd even be tempted to give it a go myself!

 

[DOUGLAS]

That is a beautiful suit. I would suggest selling it and looking for one in your size with the material and lapel type you prefer. Altering this suit to your size and taste will destroy it and cost you a bundle. For the amount that you can sell this one for plus the savings on not having to rebuild it you will be able to find a beautiful Fifties Flecked suit in your size.
It would be a shame to cut up the suit you have now. It will not look correct.

 

[Micawber]

It would be a shame to alter an original piece beyond redemption. Bide your time a little and something will turn up, in the meantime you could take a look around locally.

 

[Graeme]

Right, well ive been to the tailors.

The suit will fit me but will need the arms shortening a little, probably the trousers shortening a little and they said its no problem at all to alter the lapels.

£35 all in.

They are also going to make me some more trousers at £40 a pair, £70 for 2 pairs. There a proper old school tailors.

Im going to go for it, i appreciate what your saying but ive not got long and i'd probably have to alter sleeve/leg length on anything. Ill try in on and get used to it before i comit to altering the lapels, see if they grow on me or not.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Well be sure to post some pics once all is said and done!

 

[Graeme]

Will do, its all paid for now, quite expensive but hey, what can you do

Ill get pics up when it arrives and more pics after any alterations it might need.

Thanx.