Sucked in! And fit question

[Jimmy Shinki]

This is my first post on FL after lurking for a month or so. I've been eyeballing a couple of jackets (aero and thedi) and Google directed me here at every turn. There should have been a warning that this place is one big enabler! Came looking for a few ideas and now I find myself laying awake at night planning for multiple styles in a variety of colours and leathers. Is there a Fedora Lounge rehab centre somewhere around here?

My plan is to pick up a couple of second hand jackets (on here or maybe ebay) to start my own fit jacket process, prior to having something more substantial made to measure. How do you guys handle the inevitable fluctuation in sizing? I figure that some of the fundamentals will stay consistent such as sleeve length, shoulders and back length. However, my waist and p2p can change after a few weeks in the gym, or an indulgent weekend. What are your recommendations around tolerances for someone who wants a modern trim fit? I'm leaning towards a premier highwayman in tobacco badalassi...

 

[dwilson]

I guess you could get something belted if those measurements are changing that drastically all the time. My recommendation would be having huge changes like that such that jackets will or will not fit is overall not a very healthy lifestyle, though.

 

[David r]

Hi,
I am just like you. I found my way here via google and now have plans for more jackets than my bank balance can afford. I’m also the proud owner of a premier highwayman in tobacco badalassi. The leather is fantastic and photos don’t do it justice.

The PHWM is one of aero’s tighter fits so be a little careful. I took my measurements wearing a thick jumper and then added a little extra for luck. In hindsight I wish I’d stayed true to my size. The jacket looks fine on but when you see so many photos on here of people with perfect fitting jackets, it raises the bar of a good fit.

I’d suggest go for the measurements you want and use that as incentive to keep away from the beers/pies. Good luck

 

[Carlos840]

Welcome to both of you.
Here is a thread i made a few years ago, it shows a bunch of fit pics, with a bunch of measurements, and my own measurements too. You can learn a lot from looking at them, i did.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/

I have gone from 88kg down to 76 and then back up to 82kg and can still wear the same jackets comfortably, IMO for most people you don't need to worry about size fluctuation from week to week.
You will get more change in size from what you wear underneath the jacket ie fisherman jumper vs T shirt only than you will from eating a lot for a week.
Saying that, i do have jackets in size 44 even though i am a 42, i wear those in winter with a thick jumper.
Good luck finding the right jackets, keep us posted.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

I guess you could get something belted if those measurements are changing that drastically all the time. My recommendation would be having huge changes like that such that jackets will or will not fit is overall not a very healthy lifestyle, though.

Thanks for the suggestion of a belted jacket. The weight fluctuation is not too bad. Typically between 83kgs and 88kgs. Also, I'd like to think it's mostly down to gym work and being a bit more stocky when the squats and Deads are going well. But the belly can creep up and down by a couple of inches. Thankfully I'm in pretty decent shape for my age.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Hi,
I am just like you. I found my way here via google and now have plans for more jackets than my bank balance can afford. I’m also the proud owner of a premier highwayman in tobacco badalassi. The leather is fantastic and photos don’t do it justice.

The PHWM is one of aero’s tighter fits so be a little careful. I took my measurements wearing a thick jumper and then added a little extra for luck. In hindsight I wish I’d stayed true to my size. The jacket looks fine on but when you see so many photos on here of people with perfect fitting jackets, it raises the bar of a good fit.

I’d suggest go for the measurements you want and use that as incentive to keep away from the beers/pies. Good luck

Thanks David, I think that's the way I'm heading. Stay true to size and use measurements that reflect me at the fitter end of my fluctuation but not unrealistic!
Good work on the PHWM. The badalassi looks awesome in pics and seems to have the grain that I'm looking for and still sounds robust for a mid-weight hide.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Welcome to both of you.
Here is a thread i made a few years ago, it shows a bunch of fit pics, with a bunch of measurements, and my own measurements too. You can learn a lot from looking at them, i did.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/

I have gone from 88kg down to 76 and then back up to 82kg and can still wear the same jackets comfortably, IMO for most people you don't need to worry about size fluctuation from week to week.
You will get more change in size from what you wear underneath the jacket ie fisherman jumper vs T shirt only than you will from eating a lot for a week.
Saying that, i do have jackets in size 44 even though i am a 42, i wear those in winter with a thick jumper.
Good luck finding the right jackets, keep us posted.

Thanks Carlos, that is a really helpful thread and appreciate your advice around layering etc. I'm starting to realise that measurents can change depending on the pattern but I'm building a good idea of what's likely to work. Mind you, there's still some funky options out there. I'm realisticly a 40 (at 5ft 9) but I've seen 36's and 44's that would probably fit given measurements

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Probably a lot I could (as well as others) write about on our various fit journeys. But it is a personal taste. Just go and read Schott comments on various jackets. You'll see someone 6'1 220 and someone 5'6 160 mention how the same size is a "perfect" fit LOL. So it's not about the size number or letter of the jackets.

I think the quickest thing I could say that should be universally true is that shoulder gussets and definitely action back are going to allow for some weight and/or layering variance assuming all other things are equal. i.e. a 22 ptp with shoulder gussets and maybe underarm footballs is going to feel a lot different than a 22 ptp with single yoke back. So that's a good place to start if you think your weight/build is going to shuffle. Maybe buy one jacket/style with gussets and one without.

But there's so many pitfalls. Arm hole size and sleeve taper are going to nail you and limit you just to name a couple. Usually you can accommodate room for layering in the chest and hem, but it's also got to cram into that arm hole and down your whole arm.

It seems what most people do around here is have a range of jackets in various styles, and then some of those lend themselves to certain "looks". This one I wear if I need to layer. This one I wear with a t-shirt. etc. But I think I've seen some people have same jacket and/or certainly same style jacket in two sizes to allow for some variance. I live in Los Angeles, so I can dial into to pretty much a tshirt only fit. And then hope I can stay same weight LOL. Can't tell you how many times though I've dragged myself to exercise or skip dessert because I know I got a big collection of jackets that are completely useless if I let myself go. So it's very inspirational for me.

Lastly, if you think you're about to start hitting weights or going on a major diet, I definitely wouldn't invest in an expensive jacket, especially new. That's going to cost you a good 30-50% on resale.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Probably a lot I could (as well as others) write about on our various fit journeys. But it is a personal taste. Just go and read Schott comments on various jackets. You'll see someone 6'1 220 and someone 5'6 160 mention how the same size is a "perfect" fit LOL. So it's not about the size number or letter of the jackets.

I think the quickest thing I could say that should be universally true is that shoulder gussets and definitely action back are going to allow for some weight and/or layering variance assuming all other things are equal. i.e. a 22 ptp with shoulder gussets and maybe underarm footballs is going to feel a lot different than a 22 ptp with single yoke back. So that's a good place to start if you think your weight/build is going to shuffle. Maybe buy one jacket/style with gussets and one without.

But there's so many pitfalls. Arm hole size and sleeve taper are going to nail you and limit you just to name a couple. Usually you can accommodate room for layering in the chest and hem, but it's also got to cram into that arm hole and down your whole arm.

It seems what most people do around here is have a range of jackets in various styles, and then some of those lend themselves to certain "looks". This one I wear if I need to layer. This one I wear with a t-shirt. etc. But I think I've seen some people have same jacket and/or certainly same style jacket in two sizes to allow for some variance. I live in Los Angeles, so I can dial into to pretty much a tshirt only fit. And then hope I can stay same weight LOL. Can't tell you how many times though I've dragged myself to exercise or skip dessert because I know I got a big collection of jackets that are completely useless if I let myself go. So it's very inspirational for me.

Lastly, if you think you're about to start hitting weights or going on a major diet, I definitely wouldn't invest in an expensive jacket, especially new. That's going to cost you a good 30-50% on resale.

Thanks for your input TooManyHats. I started off thinking I'd get one jacket for all circumstances which would develop real character because of the constant wear. Definitely coming round to the idea of several options with slightly different sizing. The challenge is to get there without needing a second mortgage ;-)
Half the fun maybe scoring those well fitting vintage garments before investing in the endgame jacket.... if there is such a thing

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks Carlos, that is a really helpful thread and appreciate your advice around layering etc. I'm starting to realise that measurents can change depending on the pattern but I'm building a good idea of what's likely to work. Mind you, there's still some funky options out there. I'm realisticly a 40 (at 5ft 9) but I've seen 36's and 44's that would probably fit given measurements

Focusing too much on measurements and thinking all your jackets should have the same measurements is a classic mistake i made.
A cafe racer, a half belt, a cross zip and an overcoat should not all have the same pit to pit to fit you well, different jackets with different functions should have different measurements.
The way the maker does things also influences measurements quite a bit.
Aero for example have an oversized pit to pit in most models, whereas other makers like Lewis can make very tight jackets in the pits that still feel great.
Rather than looking for a specific number it's IMO better to figure out your range.
For example i know that 22-24" is a good starting point for P2P for me, shoulders i ignore as long as it is between 18 and 21". Sleeves i can do 25 to 27 depending on shoulder width (19 shoulders with 26 arms will be similar to 20 shoulders and 25" arms or 18" shoulders with 27" arms).
Back length, 24.5 to 27 works depending on back shape.
The most important thing for me is bottom hem, i want it to be 20-21", anything larger looks like a bag.
20.5" bottom hem is my sweet spot, i can do 21.5" if it's a big coat or a winter jacket, but it's the only measurement that can be a deal killer for me.
1" more or less in the bottom hem has far more influence on fit thant 1" in the pit to pit.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Welcome! If you don't fluctuate too much, it shouldn't be much of an issue. It is something to be wary about, however. I am someone who can be forced to sell a jacket with a 10lb weight fluctuation. As @Carlos840 has said, that's not most people, but try to remember any times you may have had to sell clothing due to past weight changes.

Leather jackets are a tighter tolerance than any other garment aside from footwear in my experience. My suggestion is to try out some cheaper used jackets or go with someone who can provide you with a fit jacket before purchasing if you are worried.

Also, as Carlos mentioned, measurements are not everything. The actual pattern of a leather jacket goes far beyond the very basic measurements that we go by. I had an Aero jacket that had larger measurements than my Freewheelers jackets and the Aero felt much tighter while also looking too big at the same time while the Freewheelers felt comfortable, but looked slim and flattering on me. This is where trying on and experience comes in. Also, straight up, some makers just do better patterns than others and your body will not fit all patterns equally well.

Or you can just be like the rest of us and dive in head first and buy and flip tons of jackets for years on end... like normal people

 

[Monitor]

Hi!

How do you guys handle the inevitable fluctuation in sizing? I figure that some of the fundamentals will stay consistent such as sleeve length, shoulders and back length. However, my waist and p2p can change after a few weeks in the gym, or an indulgent weekend.

Don't worry about it. @Carlos840 explained it perfect with the T-shirt vs overeating analogy. You'd need to gain or lose 10kg / 25lbs + to notice the difference in your jacket, and that's if the jacket was super tight from the start in which case it wasn't a good fit to begin with.

Get a jacket in your size but mind the measurements, too, make sure you've got couple of inches of breathing room, depending on a style of jacket and you'll be fine. Overly trim look is falling out of fashion, anyway. Though getting a larger jacket that fits you nicely is very tricky, too but you'll figure it out.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Focusing too much on measurements and thinking all your jackets should have the same measurements is a classic mistake i made.
A cafe racer, a half belt, a cross zip and an overcoat should not all have the same pit to pit to fit you well, different jackets with different functions should have different measurements.
The way the maker does things also influences measurements quite a bit.
Aero for example have an oversized pit to pit in most models, whereas other makers like Lewis can make very tight jackets in the pits that still feel great.
Rather than looking for a specific number it's IMO better to figure out your range.
For example i know that 22-24" is a good starting point for P2P for me, shoulders i ignore as long as it is between 18 and 21". Sleeves i can do 25 to 27 depending on shoulder width (19 shoulders with 26 arms will be similar to 20 shoulders and 25" arms or 18" shoulders with 27" arms).
Back length, 24.5 to 27 works depending on back shape.
The most important thing for me is bottom hem, i want it to be 20-21", anything larger looks like a bag.
20.5" bottom hem is my sweet spot, i can do 21.5" if it's a big coat or a winter jacket, but it's the only measurement that can be a deal killer for me.
1" more or less in the bottom hem has far more influence on fit thant 1" in the pit to pit.

Excellent stuff, much appreciated. Particularly your comments about the hem. That was off my radar, but I can see why you'd want to get that right. Very helpful Carlos, thanks for taking the time

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Hi!



Don't worry about it. @Carlos840 explained it perfect with the T-shirt vs overeating analogy. You'd need to gain or lose 10kg / 25lbs + to notice the difference in your jacket, and that's if the jacket was super tight from the start in which case it wasn't a good fit to begin with.

Get a jacket in your size but mind the measurements, too, make sure you've got couple of inches of breathing room, depending on a style of jacket and you'll be fine. Overly trim look is falling out of fashion, anyway. Though getting a larger jacket that fits you nicely is very tricky, too but you'll figure it out.

Thanks Monitor. I think I've gotten over the temptation of going too trim. I imagine many a first jackets have found their way onto the classified section for going too close with measurements. Glad I jumped on here, heaps of good advice

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Welcome! If you don't fluctuate too much, it shouldn't be much of an issue. It is something to be wary about, however. I am someone who can be forced to sell a jacket with a 10lb weight fluctuation. As @Carlos840 has said, that's not most people, but try to remember any times you may have had to sell clothing due to past weight changes.

Leather jackets are a tighter tolerance than any other garment aside from footwear in my experience. My suggestion is to try out some cheaper used jackets or go with someone who can provide you with a fit jacket before purchasing if you are worried.

Also, as Carlos mentioned, measurements are not everything. The actual pattern of a leather jacket goes far beyond the very basic measurements that we go by. I had an Aero jacket that had larger measurements than my Freewheelers jackets and the Aero felt much tighter while also looking too big at the same time while the Freewheelers felt comfortable, but looked slim and flattering on me. This is where trying on and experience comes in. Also, straight up, some makers just do better patterns than others and your body will not fit all patterns equally well.

Or you can just be like the rest of us and dive in head first and buy and flip tons of jackets for years on end... like normal people

Thanks dudewuttheheck, I'm probably pulling the trigger on a couple of cheaper jackets to get some fit experience under my belt.
Hmm flipping jackets...Is this like flipping houses except you lose money?!

 

[Bfd70]

If I had the type of money where one could build their own rocket ship to go to outer space, I would buy each of my jackets in two different sizes. The first size would fit with a T-shirt. The second size would fit with a sweatshirt. Assuming you don’t have that kind of cash, you should just abandon the idea of a perfect fit. Remember, the pictures you see here were the comments say the fit is perfect I just pictures of someone standing still. They don’t involve actually having to live in the jacket and get things off the top shelf at the grocery store. There is a model fit and then there is a livable lifestyle fit. As dude said leather jackets have a very narrow tolerance. Don’t look for perfect, look for good

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

If I had the type of money where one could build their own rocket ship to go to outer space, I would buy each of my jackets in two different sizes. The first size would fit with a T-shirt. The second size would fit with a sweatshirt. Assuming you don’t have that kind of cash, you should just abandon the idea of a perfect fit. Remember, the pictures you see here were the comments say the fit is perfect I just pictures of someone standing still. They don’t involve actually having to live in the jacket and get things off the top shelf at the grocery store. There is a model fit and then there is a livable lifestyle fit. As dude said leather jackets have a very narrow tolerance. Don’t look for perfect, look for good

words of wisdom right here. Also remember, that when you see modeled photos of what marketing people want us to see in ads, there's a lot of stuff going on off camera to make the jacket or whatever clothing look perfect. Stuff is being tucked in, pinched, taped, stretched, etc. Unless you go full blown custom or just have the perfect body that particular clothing was designed on, it's hard to achieve 100%. You might get lucky, but will probably take you a handful of jackets to understand correlation of manufacturer to measurements to style to leather type to functionality to fit, etc.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Thanks dudewuttheheck, I'm probably pulling the trigger on a couple of cheaper jackets to get some fit experience under my belt.
Hmm flipping jackets...Is this like flipping houses except you lose money?!

Yes exactly! Don't worry. It's just part of the process. There was one dude on here that found his grail jacket and just left, but the rest of us stay here forever in an endless cycle of buying and selling jackets

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

Yes exactly! Don't worry. It's just part of the process. There was one dude on here that found his grail jacket and just left, but the rest of us stay here forever in an endless cycle of buying and selling jackets

I shall call him Neo, the chosen one who unplugged from the matrix!

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

If I had the type of money where one could build their own rocket ship to go to outer space, I would buy each of my jackets in two different sizes. The first size would fit with a T-shirt. The second size would fit with a sweatshirt. Assuming you don’t have that kind of cash, you should just abandon the idea of a perfect fit. Remember, the pictures you see here were the comments say the fit is perfect I just pictures of someone standing still. They don’t involve actually having to live in the jacket and get things off the top shelf at the grocery store. There is a model fit and then there is a livable lifestyle fit. As dude said leather jackets have a very narrow tolerance. Don’t look for perfect, look for good

If I had the type of money where one could build their own rocket ship to go to outer space, I would buy each of my jackets in two different sizes. The first size would fit with a T-shirt. The second size would fit with a sweatshirt. Assuming you don’t have that kind of cash, you should just abandon the idea of a perfect fit. Remember, the pictures you see here were the comments say the fit is perfect I just pictures of someone standing still. They don’t involve actually having to live in the jacket and get things off the top shelf at the grocery store. There is a model fit and then there is a livable lifestyle fit. As dude said leather jackets have a very narrow tolerance. Don’t look for perfect, look for good

Thanks Bfd, your last sentence resonates. To be honest, I'm pretty lucky with off-the-shelf jackets. I think I can achieve a good fit quite easily (but maybe not perfect). Got a pretty stocky top half (shoulders and chest) which seems to work well with short, collared, rider/trucker style jackets