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Starting over with my Aero Half-Belt Order- Which Option?

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,242
Location
San Francisco
Hi All,
I ordered an FQHH Aero 30's half-belt over a month ago. Because I have wide shoulders, and a trim body, and somewhat on the slender side coming in at 6'/165lbs, the Aero 30's half-belt seemed like a perfect fit. Except that I have a long waist. Consequently, I feel that the 30's half-belt would ride way too high up, especially in the back with its drop front.
So after much discussion when placing my order, Wade (at Insurrection) and I came up with a perfect solution - a "flat" bottom hem on the 30's half-belt in the order, dropping the hem by about 1 1/2 inches. Voila! My perfect Aero Half-belt jacket.
I observed that a few others here on The Fedora Lounge had the same thing done on their Aero 30's half-belts, and were pleased with the results.
So imagine my disappointment today, when I found out Aero decided they won't do this modification anymore. And I find myself caught in an unenviable quagmire of "historical accuracy" vs. "good fit." I can appreciate Aero's noble quest for historical purity. But isn't it better to wear a jacket that fits right? Am I asking for some wild departure that would sully the course of sartorial history here? Is it typical of Aero to change orders that have already been paid for like this? I thought this was just a minor modification, one made previously for others.

So it seems my choices are:
Option 1. Go with 30's Half-belt, with good slender fit in the upper body and arms, but too short- my beltline and shirt will be visible.
Option 2. Go with the 50's Half-belt with a looser boxy fit, less of a slim profile and stylish, but a better drop in front and back, and around the waist.

Ever since seeing my first half-belt years ago in a noir film, I've always wanted one. (I don't even remember the film- DOA? Big Combo? Maltese Falcon?) I've heard nothing but good things about Aero's reputation for attention to detail and service. And I'm sure either Aero half-belt would be a stunning example of quality in leather and finish. I thought I was all done, excitedly awaiting delivery of my new Aero. But now it seems that I'm back to the drawing board. Any thoughts from those with more experience in the fluctuating Aero world of ordering half-belts would be greatly appreciated.
 

Capesofwrath

Practically Family
Messages
780
Location
Somewhere on Earth
Surely they will still add length if you're tall? I thought Insurrection did that anyway to its jackets. Not sure I understand the difference between that and this flat bottom of which you speak.

Can't you keep the shape but just add length?
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
You might consider a Dustbowl or Pioneer as an alternative to the 30's that might not work for you, given your long torso. Have to respect Ken's stance regarding Aero's maintaining historic accuracy, which is his prerogative. He's been doing this for a long time and has a strong feeling regarding how he wants to proceed, as opposed to the prior management of "anything goes." Probably best to go back to the drawing board.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
Maintaining historical accuracy when it means the jacket won't fit?

Appears so. Keep in mind though that in that era, men wore trousers with very high rise. I think that Ken is loathe to alter the basic template that in Technovox's case might be to lengthen the back and shorten the front. He really might want to consider a Teamster, as I did, that has a back longer than than the the front, whereas the reverse seems to be true with the 30's HB pattern. Also, consider another pattern, such as the Pioneer, that might work better than the 30's pattern. Strangely enough, the 30's actually works for me since I am "high waisted" with relatively short torso in relation to my height. I can see how the 30's would not work for someone with a long torso and low rise trousers.
 
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wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
As a matter of interest, was it the flat bottom hem that was the problem? Could you have lowered the whole thing by 1.5" to retain the design appearance to satisfy Ken, rather than just the back which would have altered the look?

As Fanch says, the Teamster, or maybe the LHB, might be a better option, but no doubt you went through all that before choosing the 30s.
 

majormajor

One Too Many
Messages
1,713
Location
UK
So leaving off the requested extra 1.5 inches is gonna expose both your shirt and belt?

Gotta say, my friend, that if your torso is so long that that would happen, just down to 1.5 inches, then the HB is not the jacket for you.

I would imagine, however, that the simple question of length is not the issue - it is your wish to change the shape of the hem that is the problem.

My advice would be to go for a simple addition of length - or go for the Long Half Belt.

Good luck:D;)
 

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,242
Location
San Francisco
Good suggestions. I'll inquire if adding a bit of length to the 30's Half-belt is a possible alternative. It doesn't seem anyone is recommending going with a boxier 50's half-belt cut.
 
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
Aero will still add length to the '30s HB...just not change the bottom to a '50's HB style cut/pattern.
Just find out what length you want the back to be. Of course the front will still be somewhat longer than the back retaining the '30s style. Problem solved.
HD
 

Boyo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,243
Location
Long Island NY
As an recent owner of a 30's halfbelt I agree with Major and HD.. Get the back measurement right and the drop in front is inconsequential. The pictures and measurements of mine are a page or two back.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
The drop in the front is 2 inches and makes the jacket look really cool. You're not overly tall, so a 25.5 inch back should do. Mine is 25.5 and I'm, six ft two. The cut of this jacket allows it to sit low. Mine sits three inches over my belt, which is perfect. From where I'm sitting I would think getting you an appropriate 30's HB would be straightforward.
 
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Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
My first 30s HB had the flat front, the second has the drop. Guess which one I like better?
 
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
My HalfBelts are all '30s style with the angled(longer front) waist design...which I think looks more stylishly tailored and compliments the HB pattern very well. However other HB styles..such as the Bootlegger with offset zipper requires the '50s style straight bottom.
As stated before the '30s style back measurement becomes more crucial with that HB design for some.
HD
 

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