Patrick Hall
Practically Family
- Messages
- 541
- Location
- Houston, TX
Would LOVE to know how this man got a carabiner stuck in his collar. Also, he spent hours fluffing that pocket square.
Interesting, what's off about the brace button positions? Should they be further to the sides?
There's a lot about this man's taste that I like - the knit tie, the checked jacket fabric, the healthy trouser rise, the restraint demonstrated in the bit of white linen peaking out of the pocket. Hell, I even appreciate the toe-y last of his oxfords. Might not have chosen a shirt with such a dressy collar, but that's quibbling because no one dresses for occasion anymore. What's so maddening to me about this "sprezzatura" thing, is how close these men get to greatness. Add a half inch to the inseam, FIX THE TIE INSANITY, and you can take this one to the bank.
You can see that the innermost left brace button is placed directly above the belt loop.
On the right hand side, the same corresponding innermost right brace button lies lateral to the brace button.
The distance between the front 2 belt loops are equidistant from the fly opening zip and therefore the positioning of the brace buttons, probably hack-sewn on semi-cockeyed or mildly inebriated, has been positioned so that it is impossible to suspend the trousers symmetrically properly, unless one leg is shorter than the other.
Just a detailing issue. I'm not fond of brace/suspender worn trousers with belt loops personally however when they are done as an aftermarket effect on a standard pair of trousers, they should be at least able to hold up balanced.
A very clear part of the picture of the gentlemen on display here...flood water high trouser length....most likely the fault of having his braces adjusted too tight, thus they pull the pants up and creates the flood water look! Pity.Hi Patrick,
just my own issue about brace buttons. Check the image out again:
You can see that the innermost left brace button is placed directly above the belt loop.
On the right hand side, the same corresponding innermost right brace button lies lateral to the brace button.
The distance between the front 2 belt loops are equidistant from the fly opening zip and therefore the positioning of the brace buttons, probably hack-sewn on semi-cockeyed or mildly inebriated, has been positioned so that it is impossible to suspend the trousers symmetrically properly, unless one leg is shorter than the other.
Just a detailing issue. I'm not fond of brace/suspender worn trousers with belt loops personally however when they are done as an aftermarket effect on a standard pair of trousers, they should be at least able to hold up balanced.
You're right - it is maddening how the textures and fabric materials are all great. It's the cut and the way the clothes are worn which makes them an abominable disaster. Only a preppy minded sprez could manage so successfully, to seize defeat from the jaws of imminent victory.
That collar pin is actually just that, a extra large safety pin, and not a true collar bar.Would LOVE to know how this man got a carabiner stuck in his collar. Also, he spent hours fluffing that pocket square.
View attachment 48843
Adding buttons, I've not done before although your tailor is sewing the buttons without exposing the threading on the exterior, right?
Many of the old Austin Reed catalogues show brace worn trousers with the buttons on the outside. I don't know if this is a British thing or maybe a wider design preference however I prefer buttons to be exposed on the outside.
most likely the fault of having his braces adjusted too tight, thus they pull the pants up and creates the flood water look! Pity.
O.K. that does make sense!not a mistake. it was a look in the late teens-early 20s to wear trousers off the shoe (with about 1" of sock showing), and it's a look again.
Would LOVE to know how this man got a carabiner stuck in his collar. Also, he spent hours fluffing that pocket square.
View attachment 48843
not a mistake. it was a look in the late teens-early 20s to wear trousers off the shoe (with about 1" of sock showing), and it's a look again.
Yes, he sews the buttons on the inside of the waistband, without carrying the threading through to the exterior. That would be an unforgivable alterations mishap!
Belts are the reigning (if fatally flawed) suspension kings in the US, so if I buy a non-vintage pair of trousers, I almost always have to have brace buttons sewn in by my tailor, as our poor hapless friend photographed above probably did. The only trousers I own that were designed for braces, with exterior buttons and sans belt loops are vintage or ordered that way by me. Such a trouser configuration is flat-out extinct on this side of the Atlantic, at least in R2W.
Ohh...but Polo Ralph Lauren have a range of vintage interesting ? repro clothes as well as trousers with built in bulleted brace buttons. I forget the name but they are very surprising since I always thought they were some kind of teenager mall brand clothes factory.
not a mistake. it was a look in the late teens-early 20s to wear trousers off the shoe (with about 1" of sock showing), and it's a look again.
I tend to like those old pictures/catalogue illustrations of the off-the-shoe look. In the photo above, something doesn't quite click. ...
I may be very narrow-minded, but I can't figure out how damn you can feel effortless and nonchalant with your pants sagging under the waistocat, while your shirt untucks and billows all over the empty space.