Spectator Shoes

[Baron Kurtz]

I have some very similar Thom McCann's that I always assumed were 1950s.

bk

 

[Edward]

ALSO, keep in mind the shoe-making landscape is changing. There are a LOT of pretty good Asian makers who are venturing out to try to challenge the higher end UK makers. Their prices are often much lower, while the quality of materials and construction is getting better and better.

And that's the unpopular fact... A lot of people still like to peddle the myth that the Far East only produces rubbish, but of course the Chinese especially only produce what the West orders, to the price and spec they are given... I have a pair of burgundy and mid-tan co-respondents I had hand made for me in Beijing for the equivalent of GBP110, two years ago. Easily the equal of a pair of Churches. The guy took three measurements and drew round my feet. They fit like a glove, and are the only pair of new shoes I've ever had (at any price) that required no break in period. Wonderful things.

Meanwhile, fwiw, the Chinese kids I teach (typically very well off) can't get enough of our dear Clark's.... Those go for treble the price in Beijing.

Here are my Fratelli Rossetti cap toe spectators

Gorgeous! I love cap toe co-respondents, don't see them anywhere near as often as brogues.

Yeah, Prada make lots of great looking shoes albeit a tad over-priced. Though they can be had at seasonal clearance sales at substantial discount. They look a lot better at 50% off......

Doesn't everything?

A canvas/leather combination from Marks & Spencer; at £70 for a goodyear welted shoe, a real bargain.

Oh! I wonder if they have any of those left anywhere.... I must go looking. Had a nice pair of Marksies boots a couple of years ago, but only got twelve months out of them before the (man-made) sole split. Must check out and see whether it's worth resoling them....

 

[Isshinryu101]

semi-trashed Weyenberg 'Olympics'...

can anyone put a date on them ?

for informed opinion, need soles, heels, inside footbed, writing, as well, my friend.

 

[Johnny J]

I made an offer on these on the bay and won them. They say Freeman on the inside:

Any info on these shoes? 1930s? or 1940s?

 

[Isshinryu101]

I made an offer on these on the bay and won them. They say Freeman on the inside:

Any info on these shoes? 1930s? or 1940s?

1940's Freemans. I have dealt with this seller before and he's a very nice guy and has some excellent stuff. Those Freemans are pure summer fun shoes. Look at that closed channel sole! Great work. In fact, they were ALMOST mine! I can fit into a 9.5b, but they would be a bit long so I held off. I am VERY glad a class guy like Johnny J. got 'em!!!!! Get some trees with a wider heel cup, though. Look at the creasing on the sides near the heel. That one is too narrow. With 60+ year old shoes, it is very important to keep that shape and minimize any stresses on the leather.

 

[Johnny J]

Thanks Issh! Maybe you can send me a link to know where to get some trees like you recommended. PM me please.

 

[randooch]

Nice, Johnny. I dig those medallions!

 

[Johnny J]

Thanks Randal. I also notice that the dress shoes in the old days were made very close to the curves of the foot, and now they look wider.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

1940's Freemans. I have dealt with this seller before and he's a very nice guy and has some excellent stuff. Those Freemans are pure summer fun shoes. Look at that closed channel sole! Great work. In fact, they were ALMOST mine! I can fit into a 9.5b, but they would be a bit long so I held off. I am VERY glad a class guy like Johnny J. got 'em!!!!! Get some trees with a wider heel cup, though. Look at the creasing on the sides near the heel. That one is too narrow. With 60+ year old shoes, it is very important to keep that shape and minimize any stresses on the leather.

Yep, those are really nice...if they were a larger size, they'd have been twinkling on my feet already! Yes indeed the seller of those is one nice guy. I have snagged a few pairs of shoes from him.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

And that's the unpopular fact... A lot of people still like to peddle the myth that the Far East only produces rubbish, but of course the Chinese especially only produce what the West orders, to the price and spec they are given... I have a pair of burgundy and mid-tan co-respondents I had hand made for me in Beijing for the equivalent of GBP110, two years ago. Easily the equal of a pair of Churches. The guy took three measurements and drew round my feet. They fit like a glove, and are the only pair of new shoes I've ever had (at any price) that required no break in period. Wonderful things.

Meanwhile, fwiw, the Chinese kids I teach (typically very well off) can't get enough of our dear Clark's.... Those go for treble the price in Beijing.



Gorgeous! I love cap toe co-respondents, don't see them anywhere near as often as brogues.



Doesn't everything?



Oh! I wonder if they have any of those left anywhere.... I must go looking. Had a nice pair of Marksies boots a couple of years ago, but only got twelve months out of them before the (man-made) sole split. Must check out and see whether it's worth resoling them....

I do know, Edward, that not all things made in China are junky....but a large amount of shoes manufactured there are junky. Just as other locations around the world make some junky shoes!

 

[LoveMyHats2]

for informed opinion, need soles, heels, inside footbed, writing, as well, my friend.

If I owned those, first thing I would do is drench them in some leather condition lotion and shove some shoe trees into them and shove and tighten it up until you think it would break! If the soles are not really thin, I would also drench the soles with leather conditioner. If the heel plate is worn on the edge, well it would be gone and replaced. Not knowing what the bottoms look like hard to say. I have used a few different materials to replace a footbed in a shoe before, found some very thing sheets of hard foam rubber and placed some canvas over it, pulling it behind the top and using barge glue to hold it all on. Used a few dots of the barge glue to hold it inside, and it worked like a champ for about 8 years.

Hard for me to date those shoes, could be 1950's to 1970's?

 

[countryclubjoe]

If I owned those, first thing I would do is drench them in some leather condition lotion and shove some shoe trees into them and shove and tighten it up until you think it would break! If the soles are not really thin, I would also drench the soles with leather conditioner. If the heel plate is worn on the edge, well it would be gone and replaced. Not knowing what the bottoms look like hard to say. I have used a few different materials to replace a footbed in a shoe before, found some very thing sheets of hard foam rubber and placed some canvas over it, pulling it behind the top and using barge glue to hold it all on. Used a few dots of the barge glue to hold it inside, and it worked like a champ for about 8 years.

Hard for me to date those shoes, could be 1950's to 1970's?

Hi Lovemyhats2
Could you recommend a good leather condition lotion?
Appreciate it.
Best regards
CCJ

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Hi Lovemyhats2
Could you recommend a good leather condition lotion?
Appreciate it.
Best regards
CCJ

I have personally found Cadillac Boot and Shoe Care works really well. It is able to soak right in and depending on how dry your leather is, will continue to soak for a few applications. When you apply it to shoes and you have let the shoe more or less, "dry", you can actually buff the surface of the leather with a clothe rag for a few minutes, and then apply your wax/polish. I normally will use a cream polish on shoes or boots right after the conditioner, and let is dry for more than an hour. Buff that off with a clothe rag, (old t shirts seem to work best for me). Than I will start using a wax polish, normally Kiwi or Lincoln depending on what colors I need.

You have to not be in a rush when it comes to using conditioners and polish. Plan on doing the shoes or boots you desire to condition a few days before you would be wearing them. If you use a leather conditioner on shoes or boots and you want to include Mink Oil in the line up, you can let Mink Oil sit on leather for about two days, then wipe it off and buff the leather with a clothe, and you can apply wax polish on the leather. If you desire a high gloss shine, you will have to work at it for some time, the Mink Oil will fight you for a while.

I also think the actual product of "Smiling Mink" the original Mink Oil is the best on the market.

Oh yes. along with this NOVEL sized post, do not forget if you are using conditioner on either boots or shoes, apply it to all surfaces inside and outside. Use it on any leather soles, too. If you are going to wear shoes or boots this winter and do this to them, you can also add using Mink Oil to any leather sole. Just plan on leaving the shoes or boots alone for at least 2 days, let the Mink Oil suck into the leather sole some. This will help keep out salt and water to some degree.

I am doing this already to some of my "fleet" now, boots and shoes I will be wearing this winter.

 

[cookie]

I have personally found Cadillac Boot and Shoe Care works really well. It is able to soak right in and depending on how dry your leather is, will continue to soak for a few applications. When you apply it to shoes and you have let the shoe more or less, "dry", you can actually buff the surface of the leather with a clothe rag for a few minutes, and then apply your wax/polish. I normally will use a cream polish on shoes or boots right after the conditioner, and let is dry for more than an hour. Buff that off with a clothe rag, (old t shirts seem to work best for me). Than I will start using a wax polish, normally Kiwi or Lincoln depending on what colors I need.

You have to not be in a rush when it comes to using conditioners and polish. Plan on doing the shoes or boots you desire to condition a few days before you would be wearing them. If you use a leather conditioner on shoes or boots and you want to include Mink Oil in the line up, you can let Mink Oil sit on leather for about two days, then wipe it off and buff the leather with a clothe, and you can apply wax polish on the leather. If you desire a high gloss shine, you will have to work at it for some time, the Mink Oil will fight you for a while.

I also think the actual product of "Smiling Mink" the original Mink Oil is the best on the market.

Oh yes. along with this NOVEL sized post, do not forget if you are using conditioner on either boots or shoes, apply it to all surfaces inside and outside. Use it on any leather soles, too. If you are going to wear shoes or boots this winter and do this to them, you can also add using Mink Oil to any leather sole. Just plan on leaving the shoes or boots alone for at least 2 days, let the Mink Oil suck into the leather sole some. This will help keep out salt and water to some degree.

I am doing this already to some of my "fleet" now, boots and shoes I will be wearing this winter.

Even though Saphir Renovatuer has some mink oil in its components I would discourage using mink oil as over time is can go rancid. Only really to be used for snow type situations. Not dress shoes.

 

[elawarno]

I went shopping in Shibuya yesterday

@Juvenile Delinquent

 

[Isshinryu101]

what did you BUY??? Store looks incredible.

 

[randooch]

42,000¥ = over $6,700

yikes!

 

[Dinerman]

42,000 yen is $472.97 USD

 

[Giftmacher]

Those are great! Need some nice canvas spectators for summer

 

[randooch]

42,000 yen is $472.97 USD

I thought that sounded wrong. Must've been yuan.