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Source of James Spader's hats {The Blacklist}

andrew_AU

A-List Customer
Messages
330
Location
Australia
I have a bit of an off question if you don't mind answering it. Since you mentioned it, and I've heard other hatters have done it (cf Mr. Fawcett), how does one order special felt?

What do you ask for that isn't readily available? Better/tighter felting? A different method of finishing? Say I had an interest in having somebody like Winchester make a special run for me, what kinds of things would you ask for? Maybe a blend?

Not that I would ever do this - I'm not a hatter - but the details interest me. We have had discussions on here regarding modern vs vintage felt techniques, and this implies something "better" than what we usually see is available.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Great question @ Frunobulax. That sort of detail interests me too
 

LuvMyMan

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
4,558
Location
Michigan
I have a bit of an off question if you don't mind answering it. Since you mentioned it, and I've heard other hatters have done it (cf Mr. Fawcett), how does one order special felt?

What do you ask for that isn't readily available? Better/tighter felting? A different method of finishing? Say I had an interest in having somebody like Winchester make a special run for me, what kinds of things would you ask for? Maybe a blend?

Not that I would ever do this - I'm not a hatter - but the details interest me. We have had discussions on here regarding modern vs vintage felt techniques, and this implies something "better" than what we usually see is available.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
It may be the felt body is something like what Art has for his highest price hats? But you sure raise an interesting question. For some of us that have owned Vintage hats that have that "hand" which feels like smooth creamy butter...the awareness of some hats being made "back in the day" do seem to have it over most being made in today's world, for sure!
 
Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
I think the cost factor comes into play. How much is a person willing to spend vs quality. My opinion.
Johnny

Well, see, Johnny, that's the thing. Winchester is the only US felt hood maker I'm aware of (other than Hatco). They sell beaver and hare hoods, and maybe blends. So if their off-the-rack isn't meeting your needs, will they do a run for you (at the right price) of "better" felt? A different ratio for the blend? A different finish? Or do you have to go to Tonak or FEPSA for something different?

We had a discussion in another thread a month or two ago about modern vs vintage felt quality. Art chimed in to say that nothing significant should have changed and most of the difference can be attributed to the finishing steps (pouncing, etc.).

Unless I read him wrong, Mr. Penman seems to be saying that he had a special run of some sort. Maybe he's saying he sourced a different felt. I dunno. But I'd like to.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Last edited:
Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
It may be the felt body is something like what Art has for his highest price hats? But you sure raise an interesting question. For some of us that have owned Vintage hats that have that "hand" which feels like smooth creamy butter...the awareness of some hats being made "back in the day" do seem to have it over most being made in today's world, for sure!

But where does Art (or Optimo, or Penman) get this better felt? Winchester? Europe? Some secret source they only let you know about if you know the Secret Handshake?

Inquiring minds, and all that.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
10,588
Location
Boston area
I’ll be expecting to see photos of you in that!

ed67070d031cc3aed9eaa7ba407d339f.jpg
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
But where does Art (or Optimo, or Penman) get this better felt? Winchester? Europe? Some secret source they only let you know about if you know the Secret Handshake?

Inquiring minds, and all that.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
Great question I am interested in hearing about this kind of information but maybe it should be posted in the "ask a question, get an answer" thread instead of here.
Johnny
 
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johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
mattmactimpson have you looked at local hatters? Lock and co. make some nice looking Trilbies and are local to you. Herbert Johnson has got back into the buisness of making hand made hats. I follow them on Instagram and they make some very nice looking hats. Both classic and modern.
Johnny
 

AndyR

One of the Regulars
Messages
271
Location
Illinois
JohnnyCanuck and bendingoak, you guys are in for a wild ride. The series has gone in many surprising directions since the first two seasons.

I had already been excited about my first fedora for some time, before I discovered the show.

During season two, I wondered, 'what is this fedora wearing character all about'? So I watched an episode and was thoroughly entertained by Spader's performance. The hats were fun too. :)

Of course I had no idea what was going on, so I started with the pilot and I was hooked. I binge watched to catch up.
 

johnnycanuck

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,008
Location
Alberta
Thank you johnnycanuck for the kind words. you are correct and like I stated before I had blocks made to replicate Spaders hat as they sent me a couple to get specs from so I could better replicate the hat Spader wanted.

Here is a short re-cap of what went down......

NBC went looking for more hats as Spader was not happy with the current Borsalino offerings. So The costumer went on a search as Spader is a hat guy and is very particular about what he wants. They said they went to several places and was not happy with what they were looking for. He wanted a certain felt and finish and he was very happy with my finish (pouncing) of a test hat that i did for them. After receiving a couple of his hats that he wore on the show (Borsalino). They had me take photos, measurement, specs to replicate what he wanted. I had a set of blocks made, I had special felt made just for him and the show.

If anyone wants what they see of the first few season exactly with the Borsalino logo and all. You will not find an exact copy, if you could I would not be making hats for the show. I don't know how much more clear I can be then that.

someone brought up a high weave count panama hat he wears and that is a Brent Black hat. I know as they asked and I sent them to him and gave him sizing information. Both Brent and I are friends and I have the up most respect for him as a person and a hatter. I am just starting to watch the show and Im at the very begining of season 2 so I don't know when his hat or mine start trickling in.

I made several hats for the show as they wanted matching pairs for each color.They asked for 4 different colors. If anyone wanted an exact replica of his hat, they can only get what I made as the Borsalinos aren't the same as what was original used for the show. again, if you could I wouldn't be working for the show. I know I'm repeating myself but I feel that some skip past that part.

I hope that helps. I will answer questions as best I can but be respectful if I say no. This is one of the big reasons I don't spend a lot of time on forums anymore. some have asked me to come back and share pics of my hats and just talk hats. I miss it but don't miss some of the stuff that goes with Forums.

Figures the Panamas came from Mr Blacks shop. I like to look at his web page and drool. His shop is on my "I won the lotto" bucket list. Take the family to the island on vacation and buy one of his hats right off the shelf.
Thank you very much for adding some really good extra information this thread...... or should I say relevant information ;)
As I am still plugging thru season one, I know you are creeping thru it as well. Can you please let us know when you notice your hats making an appearance. I an curious if I will be able to spot the difference when they do.;)
Wear you hats in good health
Johnny
 

mattmactimpson

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
mattmactimpson have you looked at local hatters? Lock and co. make some nice looking Trilbies and are local to you. Herbert Johnson has got back into the buisness of making hand made hats. I follow them on Instagram and they make some very nice looking hats. Both classic and modern.
Johnny

Hi thanks for the info unfortunately lock and co are to far away from me but I will have a look a Johnson
Thanks


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mattmactimpson

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Figures the Panamas came from Mr Blacks shop. I like to look at his web page and drool. His shop is on my "I won the lotto" bucket list. Take the family to the island on vacation and buy one of his hats right off the shelf.
Thank you very much for adding some really good extra information this thread...... or should I say relevant information ;)
As I am still plugging thru season one, I know you are creeping thru it as well. Can you please let us know when you notice your hats making an appearance. I an curious if I will be able to spot the difference when they do.;)
Wear you hats in good health
Johnny

Every season has so many twists some you can see some you can’t but the ride is amazing
Hope you enjoy them all ️‍♂️


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Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
Great question I am interested in hearing about this kind of information but maybe it should be posted in the "ask a question, get an answer" thread instead of here.
Johnny

Normally, I'd agree; however, I seized on the opportunity to ask @bendingoak directly, since has has first-hand knowledge.

As I wrote, we've sort of had this discussion before (perceived or genuine lower felt quality in the modern era). It would be great if he could give some insight.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
19,434
Location
Funkytown, USA
Figures the Panamas came from Mr Blacks shop. I like to look at his web page and drool. His shop is on my "I won the lotto" bucket list. Take the family to the island on vacation and buy one of his hats right off the shelf.
Thank you very much for adding some really good extra information this thread...... or should I say relevant information ;)
As I am still plugging thru season one, I know you are creeping thru it as well. Can you please let us know when you notice your hats making an appearance. I an curious if I will be able to spot the difference when they do.;)
Wear you hats in good health
Johnny

Yeah, that scene last season where Liz's baby takes out an entire terror cell with nothing but her rattler? Didn't see that one coming.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 

mattmactimpson

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Yeah, that scene last season where Liz's baby takes out an entire terror cell with nothing but her rattler? Didn't see that one coming.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Best scene so far can’t wait to see how they top it lol


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